They're still on ebay If you search eBay for 36 volt 250 w voilamart conversion kit you'll see the full spec
Not sure what that is . Any links plz ?...in which case, it's may be worth a try. You just need to find a cheap little strong spoke speedometer magnet from somewhere, put the second magnet at the oppsite side of the wheel of the one that's already installed, and hope your bike slows down to half speed when assisting...
I don't suppose you can remove some of the magnets on the pedal sensor wheel ???No it doesn't it comes with a standard throttle on off switch and 3 LED battery indicator but no speed settings. I assume that there's no no switch inside the control box
No that will just give poor signal response and a harsher on /off pick up (stuttering ride) if it worked at all.I don't suppose you can remove some of the magnets on the pedal sensor wheel ???
I have no idea what magnets you have, you'd just have to try a cheapo or two, if you think it's worth the effort for getting possible less assistance:Not sure what that is . Any links plz ?
Yes I appreciate that Nealh but it's a cheap bike i've just bought a new but not the best battery. I'm not a heavy user so I'm hoping it will give me what I want for some time. I'll make do and keep everybody posted ref performance of this battery. Anyway a lot of my routes are level so I switch off power where I can until my angina kicks in haOk thanks Mike, you are stuck with what you have for now. Cheap stuff is very limiting with very poor control use for the end user.
One reason why we always push folks to use KT with 5 power levels, a little more pricey but ever so much more user friendly.
I had a feeling that you'd bought an "Aorta" battery for good reason!angina
I misunderstood you I thought you meant pedal sensor. But I think that the motor has magnets I'll investigate if it's cheap enough and easy to try I'll try it otherwise I'll make do with what I've got thanks anywayI have no idea what magnets you have, you'd just have to try a cheapo or two, if you think it's worth the effort for getting possible less assistance:
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...and if the spacing isn't exact, it could simply confuse your bike and give you a strange ride...
Haha yes I chuckled when you called it an aorta battery quite apt but let's get to the heart of the matter it's an Aerdu (not aliexpress) battery . Check my previous post on why I'm trying this battery. The reseller who seems the know quite a lot technically assures me it's not the same as buying an Aerdu from Ali. I'll take a chancev we'll see I'll keep you postedI had a feeling that you'd bought an "Aorta" battery for good reason!
It'd be a waste of time if your speed sensor magnets are in the motor and not the back/front wheel.I misunderstood you I thought you meant pedal sensor. But I think that the motor has magnets I'll investigate if it's cheap enough and easy to try I'll try it otherwise I'll make do with what I've got thanks anyway
Haha yes I chuckled when you called it an aorta battery quite apt but let's get to the heart of the matter it's an Aerdu (not aliexpress) battery . Check my previous post on why I'm trying this battery. The reseller who seems the know quite a lot technically assures me it's not the same as buying an Aerdu from Ali. I'll take a chancev we'll see I'll keep you posted
Gotcha but would that work considering the throttles not working properlyThe cheapest kits have the cheapest controllers. The cheapest controllers lack features that you get on the more expensive ones. Your controller simply doesn't have the feature to control speed or power with the pedal sensor. It's an on/off switch that works on the basis of pulsing from the pedal sensor or not. The speed of the pulses has no influence. Changing magnets won't do a thing about it, so don't waste your time. The only thing you can do with what you have is over-ride the pedal sensor by using the throttle. Normally, the throttle takes precedence, so you can reduce the assistance speed by using the throttle position, but you can't change the power on take off.
There are various ways to make a cruise control to keep the throttle at a constant intermediate level, then use the brakes to stop and start the power when you want to slow down.
I'm not sure because I don't fully understand what your throttle problem is. you should check the voltage on the signal wire when you twist the throttle. That'll tell you if it's working properly. Should go 1.2v to 3.8v approx.Gotcha but would that work considering the throttles not working properly
360wh in my world is about 40 miles range, I am a PAS 1 user which adequate for my needs of taking the effort to aid my asthma. My asthma is worsened by exertion though not too bad riding a bike.
Everyone's usage is different so it is impossible to give a figure.
As rule a regular cyclist (not a club sport cyclist) should be able to manage 10 -12 wh per mile in lowest assist, the more aerodynamical one is then the rate can be lower.
An electric bent/trike tadpole could lower that to sub 10wh.
No I can’t peel a banana while riding.Do you pee while riding, like in Tour De France, or do you stop? A friend competed in that many years ago, peed down his leg while riding, ate a lot of bananas.
Yes works well on the bypassIt's the preferred brand for pacemakers...
Is signal wire one of the 6 on throttle or is it one coming out from control to motorI'm not sure because I don't fully understand what your throttle problem is. you should check the voltage on the signal wire when you twist the throttle. That'll tell you if it's working properly. Should go 1.2v to 3.8v approx.