Replace the gear cassette on an e-Bike?

[WheezyRider]

I already said he can't because he has a weird frame.

My point was even if he could, changing the front ring wouldn't make much of a difference to the overall ratio compared to changing the cog on the back.

 

[Sander_Koop]

Pulled the trigger, bought the freewheel & tool that @vfr400 posted. See if it works when it gets here.

 

[Sander_Koop]

Bugger... Was going to fit the new gear cluster at the weekend. Bloody motor wiring runs through the axle, and goes into the frame - wasn't going to unplug all the wiring! May have to pay a professional for this.

 

[MontyPAS]

Bugger... Was going to fit the new gear cluster at the weekend. Bloody motor wiring runs through the axle, and goes into the frame - wasn't going to unplug all the wiring! May have to pay a professional for this.

Do it yourself and unplug it...... What would you do if you had a puncture, you would have to take the wheel out?

 

[wheeliepete]

Bugger... Was going to fit the new gear cluster at the weekend. Bloody motor wiring runs through the axle, and goes into the frame - wasn't going to unplug all the wiring! May have to pay a professional for this.

I think you will have trouble finding an ordinary bike shop willing to work on your motor wheel, they just don't like them, too much potential trouble for mimimal gain. There should be a connector near the axle, it may be pushed just inside the frame.

 

[vfr400]

What would you do if you had a puncture, you would have to take the wheel out?

You just pull the tyre off one side, drag the tube out, patch it and put it back - about 10 minutes work. Why would you want to take the wheel off?

 

[MontyPAS]

You just pull the tyre off one side, drag the tube out, patch it and put it back - about 10 minutes work. Why would you want to take the wheel off?

I just carry spare tubes and a pump. Can't be arsed with repairs at the roadside. The point I was trying to make it is not difficult to remove a rear wheel... Pedelec or normal bike. Certainly does not necessitate a visit to a Lbs. Normal bike maintainance

 

[vfr400]

I just carry spare tubes and a pump. Can't be arsed with repairs at the roadside. The point I was trying to make it is not difficult to remove a rear wheel... Pedelec or normal bike. Certainly does not necessitate a visit to a Lbs. Normal bike maintainance

I understood that and you're right on that point. The point I was making is that punctures are no problem. You don't need the expense of new tubes and the work of dismantling your wheel from the bike. Patching is cheap, fast, dead simple and totally reliable. I'm surprised by how few forum members would do it. Just about every time somebody mentions punctures, somebody mentions taking the wheel off, which to me is just plain daft.

 

[MontyPAS]

I understood that and you're right on that point. The point I was making is that punctures are no problem. You don't need the expense of new tubes and the work of dismantling your wheel from the bike. Patching is cheap, fast, dead simple and totally reliable. I'm surprised by how few forum members would do it. Just about every time somebody mentions punctures, somebody mentions taking the wheel off, which to me is just plain daft.

Logically it makes sense to repair! I normally find the patches are past their best when I come to use them anyway after knocking around in my saddle pouch. Also I only have mid motors, so quick release of the rear wheel and change tube doesn't take long!

All this is irrelevant anyway, if the original OP is taking the bike to a LBS to remove the rear wheel...... Certainly not going to repair a puncture.

No offense meant

 

[vfr400]

so quick release of the rear wheel and change tube doesn't take long!

That makes sense now. For QR wheels, it's easier to take the wheel off, which is your frame of reference, the same as many people that had non-motorised bikes before going electric. All my comments above are in relation to motor wheels that are bolted on and joined by wires.

 

[PatM]

I did it myself on my last e-bike, which was a fully legal one that would only assist up to 25KMH.
The cassette change made the ride much more comfortable, not needing to maintain such high revolutions with my feet....
Warning, there are at least two different types of cassette available, they are not compatible.
I ordered the wrong type first!!! But it was not expensive.
Also, mine needed a small (but cheap) special tool to remove and replace the cassette.
Once I got the right one and the tool, it was easy to do IMHO.
Depending on how old the bike is and how many miles you have ridden, a new chain at the same time may be a good idea.
Making the gear ring larger, is also a possibility that I have never tried myself, but I had it in mind, if the cassette change was not fully effective.
Best wishes
Andy

I remplaced the chainwheel on my home-brew Stealth which id fitted a Legal 250w front wheel set-up from YosePower and had notice its not as 'fast' top end as my other bike. not that its a vast difference , but my old british Eagle MTB rides much faster than the lighter all ally Stealth. I went 48T chainwheel rather than the 42- Not a hapes' worth of difference and the smaller chainwheel struck the frame...slightly..so I put up with it, knowing it was less than about 25thou. Id suggest leave chainwheel as is, but remove the rear casset first before ordering a new one as some of the fittings are the work of the devil!

 

[jimriley]

I've been using my original Shimano 34/13 freewheel block, facies a change, so got a DNP 34/11, better top speed but, despite setting up and checking the indexing and chain tension a few times, it jumps the smallest 2 cogs. I did treat it to a new chain, though my old chain was hardly worn. Still jumping off the teeth! I put the old one back on and slowed down. Any thoughts appreciated.
PS Bbs01b kit.

 

[vfr400]

I'd say you didn't adjust your derailleur properly, or, more likely, your chain was too long. Normally, you can't jump on top gear unless your chain is too long because that's where you start your adjustment from.

 

[D C]

I've been using my original Shimano 34/13 freewheel block, facies a change, so got a DNP 34/11, better top speed but, despite setting up and checking the indexing and chain tension a few times, it jumps the smallest 2 cogs. I did treat it to a new chain, though my old chain was hardly worn. Still jumping off the teeth! I put the old one back on and slowed down. Any thoughts appreciated.
PS Bbs01b kit.

Derailleur alignment could be a bit off, has it had a knock lately?
If thats the case it won't adjust properly and will drive you mad trying.

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[jimriley]

Thanks for the suggestion, but no, it's a new derailleur and hanger, I've got the hang of setting up the indexing thanks to a Park Tools youtube video. Same for chain length. I will try the alignment tool, but I'll make one as in this video. Maybe the new smaller cog is more sensitive to misalignment.

 

[Nealh]

Derailleurs have a max size largest sprocket size it will take, it might be beyond it's capability. If so one will have to fit a road link to extend the capability, first of all though check the derailleur specs for the largest sprocket it can handle.

 

[jimriley]

Derailleurs have a max size largest sprocket size it will take, it might be beyond it's capability. If so one will have to fit a road link to extend the capability, first of all though check the derailleur specs for the largest sprocket it can handle.

It's the 11 tooth sprocket that's jumping. Same 34 tooth large cog on both blocks.

 

[Nealh]

Is it jumping on the 11t or is it jumping between it and the next one up ?

 

[vfr400]

It's the 11 tooth sprocket that's jumping. Same 34 tooth large cog on both blocks.

That's the one that you start with when you adjust the derailleur alignment. The first step is to align top gear and set the end-stop, so it can't be an alignment issue.

Have a look to make sure there's nothing stuck between those two gears, like a screw, magnet, twig or any other debris.

 

[jimriley]

That's the one that you start with when you adjust the derailleur alignment. The first step is to align top gear and set the end-stop, so it can't be an alignment issue.

Have a look to make sure there's nothing stuck between those two gears, like a screw, magnet, twig or any other debris.

End stop was set ok, gears were new, as was chain. Nowt stuck between. What I haven't done is check the alignment, whether the derailleur is set square on, but the 13 tooth on the original gear block is in the same position and there's no problem with it.