Repair BBS02 Bottom bracket

[cwah]

Shall I buy the tool? or is there a manual way to open it?

 

[Nealh]

He is using circlip pliers so in theory the nut isn't very tight, if you have a drift or nail punch it should move fairly easy with a light tap from a hammer OR fabricate a flat piece of metal with a cut out on the end that will fit around the axle shaft and drill a hole either side to line up with nut lugs, then insert a small nut and bolt through each hole to locate in the lugs and that should give good leverage to easilyl turn the nut.

 

[mechaniker]

yeab, I´m using a circlip-plier but you also can use a needle-nose-pliers or something else with two pin´s. You also can use a srew-driver with a slight hit on his back the nut should be open and the rest you can spin with your fingernails. The nut is not tight.
at california-ebike you can buy a special tool but it is absolutly not neccassary to buy a special tool for this job

 

[Nealh]

Apolgies Mechaniker I should have used your name instead of he.
Thanks for all the BBS info very useful.

 

[mechaniker]

Apolgies Mechaniker I should have used your name instead of he.

Hi Nealh,
no apologies needed, I´m not that sensitive

I know the bbs motor very well because I let produce a small series for fatbike´s with a 100mm bottom-bracket in China, the first sample´s are on their way to me for a quality controll.....

 

[trex]

frank, greasing is a problem for these BBSxx motors. I don't understand why these BBSxx do not have a grease nipple or an inspection cover? Can you explain?

 

[mechaniker]

Hi trex,

I cant realy explain because after a lot of talks with Mr Wang, the Boss from Bafang, I gave up talking about quality and improvement. My solution is, try to collect information about the product and do the maintance by yourself.

the chinese simply don´t care about if maybe 10-15% of the motor go brocken.

for the greasing-nipple,
I don´t think that a grease-nippel helps because then a lot of people would use to much grease.

like I said,
at the time I let produce a special fatbike-motor and if I open my website for this Motor I put all repair-instruction and maintance instruction on my website so that every buyer is able to do this job by himself.

frank

 

[trex]

...
the chinese simply don´t care about if maybe 10-15% of the motor go broken.

I agree with you there.
I also notice that quite a few Chinese factories use this bottom bracket assembly and gearbox for their crank drive motors, I guess SB just buy them in, so it would be out of their direct control. Perhaps they get better quality control with time.

 

[cwah]

Can you rerecommend a plier I should buy and have future use? I don't have nose plier at home

 

[trex]

this one (£7.65):
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-Tech-11-inch-Degree-Bent-Plier/dp/B0070NBB3U/

Perhaps a lock ring tool may also do the job?

 

[mechaniker]

here is some phot o from pliers you can use forthe job. You dont need to buy the good brand for this easy job so I guess 10euro is enough, not big money.
I would buy the red/yellow one the circlip-plier you better buy as a set but even a set is not expencive maybe 30euro and have sense if you want disassemble further.

hello trex,

.... I guess SB just buy them in, so it would be out of their direct control....

at that point I agree but:
If a company can´t take care of the complete production process incl. the quality-control, they have no right to exist in my eyes.

 

[trex]

would this £4.99 one do?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-PL65-Internal-Circlip-Pliers/dp/B000LFXALU/

 

[cwah]

This £5 does seem ok although it doesn't have good review. I suppose it should be good enough for what I need?

 

[mechaniker]

it should work for this easy job...
I always use what is next to me on my work-desk and has two pin´s...

 

[cwah]

thanks. buying it now

 

[Nealh]

Removed and checked crank axle today all was good so regreased and refitted, The crown nut was fairly loose barely hand tight and undid with the circlip pliers although the end of a small allen key was also able to turn it.
Mine had the seal on the non drive side so that should help in keeping the water out.
Nice shiny axle as greased from factory.

Seal on non drive side 2nd from right. Race cover remained within the BBS bottom bracket.
Race from drive side, just visible needle bearing on other side.

 

[mfj197]

Really good information in this thread, and special thanks to Frank for doing the disassembly instructions - I've bookmarked those for future reference. A quick question for you as it may be the bottom bracket that is at fault:

I'm part way through a BBS01 install and have fitted the crank arms. When I turn the cranks forwards by hand I get creaks and rattles once per resolution, like this:

Is this normal? The motor has yet to be connected to power as I haven't finished welding up the battery pack yet. I bought the motor here in the UK and it is still under warranty - I don't want to continue with the install if I need to send it back, or if it's a simple fix then maybe I should do it, but then again that might invalidate the warranty. Alternatively it could all just be me being paranoid ...

Michael

 

[trex]

no, it's not normal on a brand new motor.
It should be near totally silent without the chain.

 

[Nealh]

No clicking like that on mine so must be a manufacturing/production fault.
Once up and running then there is some motor noise from the controller etc which is about 20db.
Looks like its back to your supplier hopefully not in China.

 

[mechaniker]

yo that´s not normal but to identfy where´s the problem on a video is a bit difficult.
do you have a resist when the noise is coming or when you spin the crank?

Can you feel where it is come from? I mean from the axle or from sprocket-set The big sprocket turns the small motorsprocket and this is stick into a freewheel-bearing maybe it come from there?
But anyway it should not be your problem, talk to your suplier and send back to him

frank