Removing Battery....No Key

[Del Arthur]

Unfortunately the second hand Batribike I have just purchased, has no key for removing the battery.......is there a way to remove the battery without the key ?

 

[sjpt]

Lots of people have had luck with jigglers. Probably a pretty feeble lock, most battery ones are. Otherwise you may have to drill it out.

No keys is often an indication of stolen bike.

 

[Del Arthur]

Lots of people have had luck with jigglers. Probably a pretty feeble lock, most battery ones are. Otherwise you may have to drill it out.

No keys is often an indication of stolen bike.

 

[Del Arthur]

Thanks for that......think this one is genuine, as bought it from someone that knows a family member.....what's a jiggler ? like a lock picker ?.....

 

[wheeliepete]

Thanks for that......think this one is genuine, as bought it from someone that knows a family member.....what's a jiggler ? like a lock picker ?.....

Yes, kits available on Ebay and Amazon.

 

[Del Arthur]

Yes, kits available on Ebay and Amazon.

 

[Del Arthur]

Thank you.....not really any need to remove the battery, but if it ever needs a new one......will have a look on ebay......

 

[Del Arthur]

Thank you.....not really any need to remove the battery, but if it ever needs a new one......will have a look on ebay......

 

[Del Arthur]

Finally managed to remove the battery, using some old feeler gauges......still unsure if the battery is good, or not, but just for future reference, looking at new one's.....apparently the original batteries are unobtainable, but just found this one on Ebay.....36v 10Ah, dimensions are slightly different, but with some fettling it could be made to fit.....just wondered what the general opinion is, on buying batteries like this ?.....

 

[Del Arthur]

Finally managed to remove the battery, using some old feeler gauges......still unsure if the battery is good, or not, but just for future reference, looking at new one's.....apparently the original batteries are unobtainable, but just found this one on Ebay.....36v 10Ah, dimensions are slightly different, but with some fettling it could be made to fit.....just wondered what the general opinion is, on buying batteries like this ?.....View attachment 45969

There's also this one, for a couple of quid more.....it says it's suitable for 500w motors, and below......the motor on this old girl is 250w......would that be ok ?.....not very well up on electrics I'm afraid.......

 

[Nealh]

Ignore the wattage rating of batteries the important specs one needs to know are the actual cell used and the BMS discharge rating. 500w means nothing and is nothing to do with the motor rating.

 

[Del Arthur]

Ignore the wattage rating of batteries the important specs one needs to know are the actual cell used and the BMS discharge rating. 500w means nothing and is nothing to do with the motor rating.

Thanks for that....hopefully a new battery won't be needed, I'm just gathering information.....just in case !!......is the 10 Ah bit significant ?

 

[Nealh]

Ah is just the battery capacity and how far one can go & at 36v is 360wh so good for 18 - 40 miles depending how lazy one is.

 

[guerney]

Ah is just the battery capacity and how far one can go & at 36v is 360wh so good for 18 - 40 miles depending how lazy one is.

Is the battery protection level set at the BMS or controller? I think mine is set (31% and changeable, according to the firmware) at the controller, because there are no data wires to the battery. 360Wh -31% = 248.4Wh, which would last me 15.525 miles at my usual extremely comfy and relaxing 16Wh per mile.

 

[Nealh]

Controller voltage cut off is lower then a battery BMS, controllers tend to be set at 30/40v respectively for 36/48v. Usually one would want the BMS to control the cut off, All of mine cut out at approx. 3.2v per cell.

 

[guerney]

Controller voltage cut off is lower then a battery BMS, controllers tend to be set at 30/40v respectively for 36/48v. Usually one would want the BMS to control the cut off, All of mine cut out at approx. 3.2v per cell.

Thanks, that's very interesting - in that case very low controller voltage cutoff in bbs01b controller firmware would have no effect... there's no way for me to know what the low voltage cutoff is on my battery BMS, all I've got is a serial number for which there are zero internet search results, and no other markings on the BMS label apart from 22A.

Edit: I've just found this (translated to English), which says it's rated for "up to" 20A continuous, so maybe 22A is peak, or mine is some other version of the BMS board:

LT-PD66-深圳市力通威电子科技有限公司

LT-PD66是力通威公司专门针对电动自行车7~13串电池包而设计的保护板方案；可适用不同化学性质的锂电芯，如锂离子、锂聚合物、三元锂等。 保护板带载能力强，持续电流最大可达20A。

www-lt--power-com.translate.goog

 

[science.raven]

Try a paper clip, if it copies a key with all the pins up, it will be ok. A key shop once gave me a blank key which unlocked my motorbike. Also see YT for other tricks. A farmer managed to get into my car using a flat-head screwdrivers once, perhaps you can try that on the ebike.

 

[Del Arthur]

Try a paper clip, if it copies a key with all the pins up, it will be ok. A key shop once gave me a blank key which unlocked my motorbike. Also see YT for other tricks. A farmer managed to get into my car using a flat-head screwdrivers once, perhaps you can try that on the ebike.

Thanks......I managed to unlock it, using a thin feeler gauge......unfortunately it now won't lock......work in progress !!

 

[Nealh]

Run the battery to lvc and cut out, not battery sag and cut out. Then measure the voltage it may rebound slightly but one can then see the approx. LVC for cells. Running to lvc isn't an issue as it is to protect cells from deep discharge, pointless having battery and not using it's full potential occasionally.

I think a lot of folks run max or high power a they get to like the power and prefer to be lazy instead of using a bit more effort and very low power levels. Using lowest power levels will mean more human input and fitness and then simply save the high power levels for hills. Once one gets into voltage sag and cutouts then the current is way to high more so esp with the crappier speed control systems, if one has current control then one simply decrease the power assist level /current input and the battery sag lessens leading to no or less cutting out.

 

[Del Arthur]

Run the battery to lvc and cut out, not battery sag and cut out. Then measure the voltage it may rebound slightly but one can then see the approx. LVC for cells. Running to lvc isn't an issue as it is to protect cells from deep discharge, pointless having battery and not using it's full potential occasionally.

I think a lot of folks run max or high power a they get to like the power and prefer to be lazy instead of using a bit more effort and very low power levels. Using lowest power levels will mean more human input and fitness and the simply save the high power levels for hills. Once one gets into voltage sag and cutouts then the current is way to high more so esp with the crappier speed control systems, if one has current control then one simply decrease the power assist level /current input and the battery sag lessens leading to no or less cutting out.

Thanks for that.....new spokes are now fitted, and new rear tyre back on......hopefully it will warm up soon, so that I can go on a long test ride........