The king is not changeable, pressing the 2 buttons only gives you the option of changing the voltage from 24v to 36v. On mine anyway.
Remove 15mph speed limiter
- Thread starter spikey
- Start date
Do you mean different controllers affect how fast the bike can go?
My Viking bike has a 3 speed controller, marked L M H, on the handle bar. Is the one on ebay the same thing?
Sorry for all the questions, told you I am a newbie in this game
D
Deleted member 4366
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To go faster, you need more volts from the battery; however, there's a controller that might be able to give you another 2 mph if you have a sensored motor (3 thick wires plus 5 thin hall-sensor wires). The KU63 from BMSBattery can give a speed boost when you join a couple of wires. It's only a plain controller, so only has one level of PAS and no display, but it works with a throttle.
Hi Give them a call and ask How there controller will perform
why would you have a switch to go slower than 15MPH Unless it gives you more torque to climb hills
On our kits the speed verses torque is done by the motor windings and the controller low power / speed gives you more range our motors work on RPM per volt so our 30 mph motor is wound to give 9.5 RPM per volt if you only are a light weight then our other motor 12.5 RPM per volt will do aprox 35MPH same Battery and controller if you are above 14 stone you need the 9.5 RPM motor
30 MPH In a 26inch Rim
Frank
why would you have a switch to go slower than 15MPH Unless it gives you more torque to climb hills
On our kits the speed verses torque is done by the motor windings and the controller low power / speed gives you more range our motors work on RPM per volt so our 30 mph motor is wound to give 9.5 RPM per volt if you only are a light weight then our other motor 12.5 RPM per volt will do aprox 35MPH same Battery and controller if you are above 14 stone you need the 9.5 RPM motor
30 MPH In a 26inch Rim
Frank
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hi Got the same bike this week I've found this battery what do you think might we get 20mph 36V8AH folding electric bike lithium battery electric vehicles themselves-in Apparel & Accessories on Aliexpress.com and yes as every one says the gears are to easy ! on the flat need a 7 gear. Can the gear cassette be changed or the crank for better flat speed
I've found this battery what do you think might we get 20mph 36V8AH folding electric bike lithium battery electric vehicles themselves-in Apparel & Accessories on Aliexpress.com and yes as every one says the gears are to easy ! on the flat need a 7 gear. Can the gear cassette be changed or the crank for better flat speed
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Deleted member 4366
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Yes, that battery will fit straight on. Nothing is without risk though. There's a very small chance that your controller could get damaged. A new controller would be about £20 to £30.
There's two things that you have to check: Firstly that the battery contacts are the same way round. You need to check them with a meter. If not, it's easy to swap them over. Secondly, your controller will switch off at too low a voltage. The battery will have a BMS that should protect it, but you need to check that it's working. Any throttle or display LEDs will be on all the time, so they won't help. It is possible to modify the controller if you need basic electronics skills, or you can keep an eye on the voltage yourself with a permanently fixed voltmeter. 31v is the minimum for a 36v battery.
V1NF DC15-120V Waterproof Blue LED Panel Meter DC Digital Voltmeter Two-wire | eBay
There's two things that you have to check: Firstly that the battery contacts are the same way round. You need to check them with a meter. If not, it's easy to swap them over. Secondly, your controller will switch off at too low a voltage. The battery will have a BMS that should protect it, but you need to check that it's working. Any throttle or display LEDs will be on all the time, so they won't help. It is possible to modify the controller if you need basic electronics skills, or you can keep an eye on the voltage yourself with a permanently fixed voltmeter. 31v is the minimum for a 36v battery.
V1NF DC15-120V Waterproof Blue LED Panel Meter DC Digital Voltmeter Two-wire | eBay
Thanks to KirstinS, I decided to make a 12V booster pack. I have an old Dell laptop battery and have dismantled it and found 8 batteries but no manufacturers marking nor type except code numbers (I think they are 18650 from the size). I measured the voltage and all except 2 measured about 3V so should have 6 good batteries. Since they are 2200mAH I planning to build a 3s4p pack to make a 11.1 and 8800mAH booster. Would the capacity be sufficient bearing in mind my original bike battery is 24V 9AH?
I planning to buy a (genuine) Imax B6 charger for this project. I understand a little about the function of balance wires between batteries in series, but how do you balance batteries in parallel?
This project is going to take a while as I'll be buying additional refurbished 18650 batteries on Ebay, avoiding those Ultrafire ones from what I have read about them. I'm a bit apprehensive about the flammability and explosiveness of these type of batteries, so will be very careful and taking my time in soldering and testing this.
I planning to buy a (genuine) Imax B6 charger for this project. I understand a little about the function of balance wires between batteries in series, but how do you balance batteries in parallel?
This project is going to take a while as I'll be buying additional refurbished 18650 batteries on Ebay, avoiding those Ultrafire ones from what I have read about them. I'm a bit apprehensive about the flammability and explosiveness of these type of batteries, so will be very careful and taking my time in soldering and testing this.
D
Deleted member 4366
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You can't make 3S4P from 8 cells. You need 12. Also, it's best to to have higher nominal capacity in your booster because the cells will be old and worn out. I'd go for 3S6P, which means 18 cells.
I've been thinking about this, and realised that here's a chance of damaging your main battery if you don't monitor it too because it won't be protected by the controller's LVC anymore. That means you need two voltmeters: One for the booster pack and one for the main pack.
I've been thinking about this, and realised that here's a chance of damaging your main battery if you don't monitor it too because it won't be protected by the controller's LVC anymore. That means you need two voltmeters: One for the booster pack and one for the main pack.
LVC = Low voltage condition?
Probably didn't make it clear, I'm looking to buy more 18650 cells on Ebay like these Samsung here www.ebay.co.uk.
Thinking about the problem of LVC no longer protecting the main battery, would it be better to keep the capacity of the booster less than main, that way just monitoring the booster should be OK assuming the booster will discharge quicker. Also booster would be less bulky. What do you think?
I like to use this series harness www.ebay.co.uk for the booster and a switch so I can switch the booster in/out of series with the main battery.
Probably didn't make it clear, I'm looking to buy more 18650 cells on Ebay like these Samsung here www.ebay.co.uk.
Thinking about the problem of LVC no longer protecting the main battery, would it be better to keep the capacity of the booster less than main, that way just monitoring the booster should be OK assuming the booster will discharge quicker. Also booster would be less bulky. What do you think?
I like to use this series harness www.ebay.co.uk for the booster and a switch so I can switch the booster in/out of series with the main battery.
Hello experts. I have a some question about my controller, that there is a limit somwhere in the controller or not?
My e bike is 250W \ 36v with PAS sensor, but without motor sensor and have 5 speed on a throttle.In a 5th speed controller give 24v (in AC mode, in DC mode the instrument shows nothing). I have tried some experiment with plus 6 Voltage but now both, 4th and 5th speed give the same 24v. strange.(and no more speed than 25 km\h) it looks like something cut the voltage off. any idea guys?
My e bike is 250W \ 36v with PAS sensor, but without motor sensor and have 5 speed on a throttle.In a 5th speed controller give 24v (in AC mode, in DC mode the instrument shows nothing). I have tried some experiment with plus 6 Voltage but now both, 4th and 5th speed give the same 24v. strange.(and no more speed than 25 km\h) it looks like something cut the voltage off. any idea guys?
D
Deleted member 4366
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The voltage you measured doesn't mean anything because it's a three phase AC motor, so the voltage sent to the motor is changing all the time. You need an oscilloscope to see what's happening. Do you have a 24v or 36v battery?
I don't quite understand what you have regarding your 5 speed device. Is it an LCD panel? If so, can you show a photograph.
I don't quite understand what you have regarding your 5 speed device. Is it an LCD panel? If so, can you show a photograph.
D
Deleted member 4366
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Since this thread started, I've seen another controller like Spikey's. The big white lead is a programming lead, which is a bit worrying. Unlikely, but it might mean that the speed limit is programmed into the software, and it could use a hall signal to check the speed. We'll know when the booster battery is finished.
D
Deleted member 4366
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When you tried 42v, did you add another 6v battery? If you did and the speed didn't change, it looks like bad news. The normal speed limit wires are not connected to your controller, so it can't be them. You don't have a user programmable limit. It's not the motor limiting the speed otherwise it would go faster at a higher voltage. Therefore, the limit must be set in the controller software. I think you'll need a new controller like the KU65 from BMSBattery, or make an opportunity out of a crisis and get their nice S06S sinewave one with LCD display.
Yes I added another 6 v battery. So it looks like you have right. The controller is limited by software. Bad news but no worry, I will change than the controller and the problem will resolve. Thanks a lot !!!
and something else: After I buy, can I add 48v for Ku65 controller? Can I handle it?
but no worry, I will change than the controller and the problem will resolve. Thanks a lot !!!and something else: After I buy, can I add 48v for Ku65 controller? Can I handle it?
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I think you could be right.
Before I soldered the shunt the bike would not go beyond 15mph dead. After the soldered shunt I get better torque up hill but on the flat it would reach 15mph cut out and then back on again, repeating this process. To reach 15mph dead and not go any faster must be controlled somewhere so your theory about software programmed limiter makes sense.
I wonder should I abandon the idea of a booster.
D
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The Ku65 can handle 12S lipos that go up to 50v, but a 48v battery goes up to 54v, which is over the 53v limit of the capacitors. Some people have done it and got away with it, but it's risky.
I'd keep the booster battery on ice until you get a new controller.
I'd keep the booster battery on ice until you get a new controller.
Well unless you can find any free cells. I found a local laptop repair shop who were having to give me for free out of dead laptops.
If free then worth a try to be sure ? At least that way you know for sure a new controller is required
D
Deleted member 4366
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When you get this cutting in and out at 15 mph, it's very likely to be caused by a limiter, which can't be solved with a booster pack.
If that's the case and a 36v 8fun controller is not so limited (we know from other members )
Would a 8fun run at at 36v run this at over 15mph
Given the 24 wheel size vs my 700c I would guess yes ?
I do have a spare one if you think it worth it d8veh ?
Otherwise I guess OP needs to suck up cost of new controller