Recumbent project

Jeremy

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 25, 2007
1,010
3
Salisbury
Hi, I'm new and still trying to wade through all the stuff I need to meet my requirements.

I have a recumbent (a SWB TW Bent USS) that I would really like to use for my short (2 miles each way) commute to work. Unfortunately I pulled a thigh muscle badly (whilst paramotoring.......) and now find that sustained hill climbing is a real problem on the bent (bent riders here will know how hard hills are on the quads). My commute includes a long, (but quite gentle) grade on the way in that is enough to slow me down to below a safe speed in traffic. The fact that I am in my mid-fifties and not as fit as I'd like also has a bearing on my poor performance! Some power assist on the hill is my main aim, not all-electric power, as my intention is to use the commute to get fit as well as avoid doing short journeys in my Prius hybrid.

My chosen solution is a X'lyte 405 in the 20" front wheel, mated to a 35A controller. I already have a small stock of 12V 4.5A/Hr SLAs (with a 60A max discharge rate), so the initial plan is to use 4 of these as a test bed.

As far as control goes, I'd like to go pedelec, but hill starts on a bent are always challenging, so the option for a power start would be useful. I've ordered a thumb throttle, but plan to build a combined pedelec/throttle system. This should be easy enough, as it looks like the X'lyte controller just needs a 0 - 5V (or thereabouts) power control signal. If I put a cadence sensor on the bike and build a unit to mix the throttle and cadence outputs, such that the throttle can override the cadence sensor if required, then I think I should have what I want. I have a background in instrumentation design so this seems easy enough to do.

I've looked at bike power requirements and reckon that I need an average electrical input of about 200W for my commute, perhaps more on the way in but less on the way home. I believe that I will need about 80 to 90 W/Hrs of usable battery capacity for the two way journey. My 48V, 4.5A/Hr pack would give me a theoretical 216 W/Hrs, but I'm guessing that it's not sensible to use more than about 60% to 70% of theoretical capacity on SLAs. If my estimates are reasonable (any views?) then my SLAs might be OK as a permanent solution, although I might be inclined to invest in some lighter NiMH, or even perhaps Li Ion, batteries if it all works OK.

I'd appreciate any feedback on my proposed build - feel free to tell me I've got it all wrong!

I've also been playing with building some high power LED lights, using some ideas gleaned from the thread in "Technical". Being an electronics bod, I've opted to drive the LED's properly from a constant current supply to ensure reliability, which is easy enough. So far I'm impressed with the brightness, particularly for the reflector mounted rear array - they are so bright that it hurts your eyes to look straight at them. The combined current draw from the front and rear lights is less than 40mA from my 48V battery, so should have virtually no effect on range. I'll try and take some pics when they're finished and tested properly.

Jeremy
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,152
30,567
I think you've got it mostly very right on the motorisation Jeremy, and I'd definitely go for having the powered start option on a two wheel recumbent. It's going to be quite a lot of added weight with the SLAs so the quite powerful motor will be needed, but I'd keep the capacity use down to 60% maximum for best battery life and performance.

The NiMh would be my favoured upgrade, but I wouldn't bother with current lithium batteries on that high powered motor, with the risks of cut-outs under load, cost and shorter life.

Using a constant current source on LED lights will be a big upgrade on the many cheap paralleled and/or resistor solutions so common at present. I'll look forward to seeing your results.
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Jeremy

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 25, 2007
1,010
3
Salisbury
Thanks for the reassuring words, Flecc, much appreciated. My small 48V SLA pack is reasonably light, at just under 6kg, but if my estimate of consumption is reasonable then it will only give me about 5 or 6 miles range to 60%. This is OK for the commute though, so I'll see how it goes.

For the LED lights, the big advantage is having a high voltage supply available. This allows the LEDs in each light to be strung together in series, which reduces the current dramatically. This evening I've drilled some holes in a big (80mm diameter) round clear reflector and fitted 8 high brightness 5mm white LEDs to it as an experiment. The total LED forward voltage is just over 28V, so this means that even a simple series resistor will be OK as a current limiter (it'll waste just 0.4W, which is trivial really). The easy way to make this work (for a 48V supply) is just to fit a 1k 0.5W resistor in the supply. For any other voltage then the resistor value would need to be altered, but I can help anyone who wants to have a go at such an experiment.

The light looks quite good, very bright straight on, but with a wide, diffuse beam that I think might be OK for lighting up the verge to the side (these are 30 degree viewing angle LEDs, a brighter, narrower, beam could be obtained using 15 degree viewing angle LEDs instead).

Jeremy
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,152
30,567
That sounds good. I think it's Ian in this forum who has used a block of series LEDs with a supply resistor. The eZee bikes come with a single bulb array of seven LEDs in the headlight in series with a single LED rear light, possibly with a supply resistor in the battery meter that the lights are wired from, though I've never checked that.
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Steven Brandist

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 20, 2007
19
0
Birstall, Leicester
Really?

Jeremy,

You asked "I'd appreciate any feedback on my proposed build - feel free to tell me I've got it all wrong!"

I don't want to be rude, but you want to spend many hours and at lot of money on going 4 miles a day? I've own recumbents in the past. Great machines but hills are a challenge.

Maybe quickly walking the 2 miles would help those legs back to recovery?

Regards
Steven
 

Jeremy

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 25, 2007
1,010
3
Salisbury
You're right, Steven, walking would be an option, although I've done loads of it whilst trying to get my pulled muscle back into shape and still find the 'bent hard work (different set of muscles I suspect).

If I'm honest, this project is as much about playing with the technology as it is about keeping me fit. I happened to already have the 'bent, because in my last job the campus was so big that I kept it at work for getting about. The new job makes the 'bent an option for the daily commute, with a bit of assist power.

I also already have the small SLAs and a couple of chargers, so there's no cost there. This experiment shouldn't be too expensive, the X'lyte motor, new wheel, 35A controller etc is about £335 (inc VAT & duty) delivered, but if the 'bent project doesn't work out I have thoughts on another use for them (too many ideas - too little time.......!).

Jeremy
 

Jeremy

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 25, 2007
1,010
3
Salisbury
An update

The 405 motor fitted in a new 20" front wheel, 35A 48V controller and thumb throttle arrived today, just a week after ordering them from www.ebikes.ca Homepage of the revolution in Vancouver. I've mounted the controller under the rear rack and wired up the battery pack this evening.

Tomorrow's jobs are to fit the new tube and tyre to the wheel (I've opted for a new 20 x 1.75 Schwalbe Marathon, rather than the 20 x 1.5 that is on the standard 406 front wheel), fit the thumb throttle and then to mount the wheel and battery pack to the bike. Hopefully it should be pretty easy to do.

I'm impressed with the quality of the Crystalyte parts. I was expecting fairly typical Chinese, poorly finished, parts, but the controller looks to be well made and finished, as do the other parts. Everything has good quality connectors (nice Anderson Powerpoles for the heavy current leads) and the wiring is very neatly finished, with good quality sleeving and decent strain relief. Apart from wiring the battery pack up, all of the other connections are simply plug together - very simple.

Hopefully I may have the first test run report by tomorrow evening!

Jeremy
 

Jeremy

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 25, 2007
1,010
3
Salisbury
Another update.

Too much optimism!

I managed to get the wheel mounted, the battery frame installed, all the wiring done, and then discovered a problem (not related to the electric conversion) that soaked up three or four hours of effort to fix.

My 'bent uses an idler wheel under the front of the seat to support the tension side of the chain. This is fitted with a small ball race, that had popped out, leaving the idler slopping around. I don't know how long it's been like this, some time at a guess, as the outside edge of the ball race was a bit rusty.

Anyway, it looks like this is a design problem with the 'bent, as there is nothing holding the ball race in place and any side load will make it slide out of the idler wheel. After a bit of head scratching I worked out a way to machine up a couple of alloy spacers to clamp the ball race firmly in place and position the idler correctly. I'm reasonably sure that the idler was previously about 1/2" off from the centre of the rear block, so would have been consistently pulled one way, which may well be why the bearing pulled out.

Unfortunately I finished this too late for a test run, although I did whizz the front wheel up in the stand and tried the new LED lights, which worked well. If I get another hour or so free time tomorrow evening I should be able to tidy the wiring up and finish things off. A test run will have to wait until next weekend though, as I don't fancy a first run in the dark!

Jeremy