Recumbant trike query

[anotherkiwi]

Borrow a bike with the same motor is about the only way I guess.

 

[grazie]

No, I just wanted to check all the bits I have will work together before installing them on the bike.

 

[grazie]

Am I correct in thinking that for a PAS only system, brake sensors aren't rneeded?

 

[Benjahmin]

Technically that's correct as the motor stops when you stop pedalling. However I find there's times when it's useful, approaching a junction downhill that will have an up incline on pulling away from it. Needs you to change down gears as you approach but you need to slow down, brake switch handy. The other is on a slight down run, you can pull the brake lever slightly cutting the motor and enjoying gravity in combination with your legs, saving battery range.

 

[grazie]

So it's probably best to buy them (they don't cost much) and fit them later if the need/desire arises?

 

[anotherkiwi]

So it's probably best to buy them (they don't cost much) and fit them later if the need/desire arises?

Do you have a parking brake on the rear? You can mount a HWBS (hidden wire brake sensor) on mechanical brakes without touching the standard levers.

On a trike I would be inclined to mount one if my feet are clipped in. As soon as you move your feet the motor will kick in unless you remember to set assistance level to 0. Pedals are at more risk to be bumped when you are off the bike than on an upright so always remember to turn assistance off!

 

[grazie]

The trike was designed for a rear parking brake, but I took it off as I was never happy with it. Instead, many folks use elastic bands or velcro to hold the break levers in the 'breaks on' position. I fitted levers with lock buttons, which works perfectly for me.

I don't think I would ever leave my trike with the battery connected, but if or when the price of them drops significantly...

I always clip in on my trike, so I'll test without sensors somewhere safe, me thinks.

 

[anotherkiwi]

The trike was designed for a rear parking brake, but I took it off as I was never happy with it. Instead, many folks use elastic bands or velcro to hold the break levers in the 'breaks on' position. I fitted levers with lock buttons, which works perfectly for me.

I don't think I would ever leave my trike with the battery connected, but if or when the price of them drops significantly...

I always clip in on my trike, so I'll test without sensors somewhere safe, me thinks.

I have locking levers too and they are a real pain to adjust. I think I am going to install a parking disk brake on the back and the new hydraulic SA drum brake kit from Gingko on the front (@ 99€ why not?).

You just need to discipline yourself to turn assistance down to 0 when you are not needing the motor.

 

[grazie]

I use drum brakes which I really like (no other option with this trike anyway), so perhaps they work better with those?

 

[anotherkiwi]

Mine are also 90mm SA drums.

 

[grazie]

I think I am going to install a parking disk brake on the back and the new hydraulic SA drum brake kit from Gingko on the front (@ 99€ why not?)..

These are new to me and look very interesting. What will you use for hydraulics and levers to go with them? Standard MTB components? Also, I've it found it hard to source quality spokes for 20" wheels in the past, Rims too, to be honest.

 

[anotherkiwi]

https://www.ginkgo-veloteile.de/ginkgoshop/en/Velomobile-technology/Hydraulic-system-SA-drum-brakes.html

I am a fat tyre freak so running Big Ben Plus on the front and have planned to replace the brake drums with Ginkgo ventilated ones and the rims with Halo T2 BMX rims. Ginkgo do Sapim spokes at all the 20" lengths.

On the back I would like to go tubeless with the Marathon Almotion.

 

[grazie]

Unfortunately I was hit by car a couple of months ago, so my original donor trike is now a write off. A hit and run too!

Fortunately, I've now got a replacement. It has a 26" instead of a 20" rear wheel, but as I'm still planning on using a mid drive I don't suppose that matters.

Still planning on a using a GSM motor rather than Bafang, unless the consensus of views have changed. However, I'd very much like to mount the battery in the triangular space between the seat and the rear wheel. I realise that this almost certainly means making my own battery. Does anyone know of a container that could be used or adapted that'll fit this space? I'll probably test the system with a battery mounted on the rear pannier rack, as I already have a battery pack I can use for this, but long term I want the battery to be low down behind the seat.

Not yet sure what spec. I'll need, but I'd like a range of 50+ miles. The end of the main frame tube also has a hole right through, which would be useful to secure the battery to the trike. I'm thinking those lockable skewers that use to be popular would do the job. An easier option could be to make a cradle to hold 2 or 3 bottle shaped batteries, but that would be aesthetically less pleasing. There's a lot of info about building your own battery on the net, including at least one thread on this forum, but obviously I'm looking for something beefier than that. Any suggestions and/or links would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I was lucky enough to be able to try an ICE Sprint with the Shimano Steps E6000 system fitted. I was very impressed by it, although was only able to try it for 3-4Km.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Logic would have you put your battery as low down under the seat as you can. https://etrike.wordpress.com/2017/06/22/ice-sprint-diy-battery-bracket/

I have a lowrider pannier rack mounted about where Marc's battery is so will put my battery in an Ortlieb pannier and lock that to the rack with their locking mechanism. If someone opens the pannier they will find a Skip Ultimate washing powder container with a few wires coming out of it, I hope that disuades them from looking further... If they are curious they will find some Multistar LiPo bricks that I got cheap on sale.

Range: how hard do you pedal? I have become quite fit so a 10 Ah battery would suit me for that range, I will however be using a 16 Ah 44.4v battery (710 Wh) which I think should be good for about 125 km on lazy days and flatter rides. When I get around to making my Li-Ion battery I will go for twice that so that I have 250 km under the pedal.

What is the light holder you have mounted on the front?
Did you get the number of the **** who ran into you?

 

[grazie]

Thanks for link to Marc's solution. I've seen that blog before, but missed that particular post. However, using Ortlieb panniers would work out to be quite an expensive option, but I realise keeping the battery dry is crucial.,

All I know is I don't pedal anywhere near as hard and far as I use to.

The clamp came with the trike and is called a SwingGrip. I think it's made by Minoura (I've previously had another one of their models which wasn't as good), but I can't see this particular model online. It's flimsy, but it is light and the mid joint is very useful. Also, the mounting bar diameter is too small for most/all devices, but that can be solved easily enough with an old inner tube or similar to 'pack it out'.

I didn't get the ****'s number, but others did. Unfortunately, I think it'll be another of the 9 out 10 unsolved crimes in the UK, despite the police having all the evidence they need including CCTV footage, which they hadn't even looked at when I last spoke to them. It's a very sad state of affairs, unfortunately.

EDIT
-------
I believe the clamp is a Minoura SG3 Swing Grip Extension Bracket

 

[anotherkiwi]

I got my Ortlieb panniers on sale - about 30% off IIRC and they are definitely a step up from the 9.99€ Decathlon one I had before

I don't have a car so I don't mind buying top notch gear for my bikes when it is a justified expense. At the moment I am trying to decide on trailer or larger Ortlieb panniers for travelling. You can't put a fishing rod in a pannier... But then I could probably fix a rod bag to the seat

 

[grazie]

I would like to add a mid reducing double cog system to my trike for the reasons given in this article, as well as other reasons. I have been searching for tandem spares that I could use or adapt, but had no luck so far. Any ideas on where I can find something like this or how to make or have one made (least preferable option).

 

[anotherkiwi]

I have spent quite a bit of time running the numbers on gear reduction (because I often bump into +20% gradients) and my conclusion is the following:

1. get a Rohloff and gear it conservatively, you spin out at around 47 km/h but it will climb anything
2. use 2 chainwheels with a Rohloff, small one well within the torque limit of the IGH and capable of climbing walls. The big one can be the biggest you can spin and top speed will be stratospheric 50-38 seems the sweet spot.
3. use a nexus 8 inter as in #2 with 2 chainwheels, the range of gears will be much less as will the price

All of the above for a GSM or BBS0x motor, for a hub motor:

1. break the piggy bank and get a pinion 18 speed box welded to the boom, it is reported that the pinion does mean a hit on un-powered use, you can feel a slight drag
2. use a patterson metropolis drive and a 10 speed derailleur (preferred option), same drag in the overdrive gear unpowered
3. your setup above with a nexus 8 in the middle and a 3 speed rear derailleur, single chainwheel.

 

[grazie]

I already have most of the parts and it certainly doesn't include or will ever likely include a Rohloff hub, unless I come into some money. I'll have GSM motor on the boom and I'll have 2 or more options for gears at the rear wheel. However, I'm not following you on a number of your suggestions

2. use 2 chainwheels with a Rohloff, small one well within the torque limit of the IGH and capable of climbing walls. The big one can be the biggest you can spin and top speed will be stratospheric 50-38 seems the sweet spot.

Do you mean have double chain rings mounted on the motor assembly? I've no intention of doing this at present

2. use a patterson metropolis drive and a 10 speed derailleur (preferred option), same drag in the overdrive gear unpowered

Don't even know what a Patterson drive is.

However, I really want a mid twin sprocket just like the one the in the Italjet photo above for lots of reasons. It would look something like this photo (Sheldon Brown), but without the hub.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Do you mean have double chain rings mounted on the motor assembly? I've no intention of doing this at present

Yes that is what I have on mine. I will try to go back to the stock 46 tooth chainwheel because the trike is a 26" wheel and not the 28" that I use the GSM with now. If that doesn't work out I'll go double 48-32.

Don't even know what a Patterson drive is.

https://www.pattersonbike.com/product/patterson-transmission/

1.6 overdrive chainwheel which would only work with a rear hub motor - stock ratio gives you 45-28 and can go up to 57-36 with optional chainwheel which is pretty good for a trike. The 36 tooth chainwheel can also be modified by drilling 12 holes for magnets thus becoming the PAS disk.