Recommended regular bike components for ebike

[Bogmonster666]

Not really being a cyclist, I am not really up on this stuff. I have just done a quick and dirty tsdz2 install on my ancient MTB. It works a charm. Now I need to give my bike a proper service and make sure it's as safe and reliable as I can... I have put a new chain on but a cheapo as that's all that Halfords had in stock. I will be keeping my bike 1 X 7 for now (ideally I could bo with a wider cassette than 7 speed gives me but that involves a new wheel and shifter). 7 speed is cheap and cheerful so cheap to replace when worn.

Chains: Are KMC X8 suitable and reliable for mid drive?

Cassette (current 11-28t cassette is serviceable but won't last forever). Will probably go for 12-32t. I don't know all the drive component families - Shimano hg200 have a 7 speed 12-32t but no idea how durable? Considering I'm in the low rent 7 speed camp, any brand anybody recommends and should avoid? Happy for longevity over weight - but cheap also has the advantage of being cheap to replace.

V brake pads. Happy to spend a premium'ish in good quality pads, especially for wet weather. KOOL stop look to be one of the better performing?

Tyres, the Panaracer tyres I have been using have been grand so no real need to change ..


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[AGS]

Does your mtb have lugs for front and rear disc brakes?

 

[guerney]

Chains: Are KMC X8 suitable and reliable for mid drive?

I use X8 on my BBS10B , works great. Some on the forum have mentioned using KMC E8, but it's twice the price and I can't imagine it lasting twice as long, or being twice as good.

 

[Bogmonster666]

Does your mtb have lugs for front and rear disc brakes?

Sadly, no. Disc brakes were not a thing when my MTB was made. It's over 25 years old

On the whole I am ok with v brakes, and in the dry they are more than adequate. Cleaning the rims regularly is critical I find - a build up of muck and oil makes for a very scary experience in the wet...

 

[Bogmonster666]

I use X8 on my BBS10B , works great. Some on the forum have mentioned using KMC E8, but it's twice the price and I can't imagine it lasting twice as long or being twice as good.

I suspect you are correct. Changing a chain takes a few mins so X8 is probably far more cost effective.

 

[Raboa]

I like Kool Stop Supra 2 pads, Shimano Deore / SLX mechs are good. Shimano have introduced a new system called CUES, this will probably be seen on new bikes. This system will not work with a non CUES system. Watch YouTube videos for more info.
If you see any Deore / SLX mechanisms at a good price that fit your gear speed ,(8,9 etc) then I would buy them for spares.

 

[guerney]

I like Kool Stop Supra 2 pads, Shimano Deore / SLX mechs are good. Shimano have introduced a new system called CUES, this will probably be seen on new bikes. This system will not work with a non CUES system. Watch YouTube videos for more info.
If you see any Deore / SLX mechanisms at a good price that fit your gear speed ,(8,9 etc) then I would buy them for spares.

If possible, for the Dahon Espresso I might have to go 3 X 8 speed using one of the Deores, whichever one can handle 34T.

 

[guerney]

I suspect you are correct. Changing a chain takes a few mins so X8 is probably far more cost effective.

Mine last for thousands of km, and that's with total neglect! I chuck over some of @Nealh 's recommended Hypoid 90 every so often, but that is the extent of my chain care regime. Actually, I apply Hypoid 90 using a small brush designed to remove dust from electronics, chucking it all over with sort-of even coverage.

 

[Raboa]

The lowest rear mech Desire does is 9 speed.

 

[Nealh]

If you want to service it properly then start with the front and rear wheel hubs , remove the nuts ,cones , loose bearings etc. Give everything a good clean then regrease and replace the old bearings with new, re-tighten/ adjust the cones/ bearing end play and refit wheels. Old bearings eventually wear and become mishapened so for the price a few £'s simply buy new ones and don't skimp on the grease, don't pack in the bearings but leave one or two out so the others have plenty of moving room.

Remove head steerer bolt and remove the forks and do the same for the top and bottom bearings on the head set , likely they are a sealed bearing so one needs to buy the correct bearing .

As mentioned if poss upgrade brakes if you haven't got hydraulic ones.

 

[Raboa]

When I am serving wheels I use a depth gauge to measure the distance from the threaded axle to the outer cone. This gives me a reference point, if I need to adjust for bearing for surface wear i give it a slight turn in.