Thanks d8veh. Ok, so you're sure I'll be able to connect the old brake, PAS sensor, handle throttle etc etc to the KT controller you think? Are the connectors the same 10+ years later? Or is it better to get all the junk while I'm at it to be sure it fits? Also - the speed sensor is just an option right? Not anything I actually need? the controller will read speed from the motor I suppose?
Rebuilding a Wisper 905
- Thread starter Chris Maluszynski
- Start date
D
Deleted member 4366
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Yes, I forgot. You need the external speed sensor if your Wisper doesn't have one in the hub. If it has one in the hub, there will be a 6th white wire in the connector with the hall sensors.
Everything else should work by connecting the wires, though I doubt that the connectors will match. You have to show us what you have if you want advice on that.
Everything else should work by connecting the wires, though I doubt that the connectors will match. You have to show us what you have if you want advice on that.
Hm. Again I'm not where the bike is now. This is the image I have of the connector from the motor. Can't see a white wire,but there's eight wires - so maybe one is the speed sensor?
8 wires means no internal speed sensor, 9 wires internal speed senssor.
Green thick phase wire
Yellow thick phase wire
Blue thick phase wire
Red thin +
Black thin -
Green thin hall B
Yellow thin hall C
Blue thin hall A
Speed sense wire usually white if fitted.
In your pic I see a white wire at the bottom or the pic is it connected
at all ?
Green thick phase wire
Yellow thick phase wire
Blue thick phase wire
Red thin +
Black thin -
Green thin hall B
Yellow thin hall C
Blue thin hall A
Speed sense wire usually white if fitted.
In your pic I see a white wire at the bottom or the pic is it connected
at all ?
Hard to say about the white wire in the picture. I will have to check when I go back to the country house. But how would this have worked without a speed sensor until now? I know there is no external one mounted - but there also is no LCD just an old LED type controller - so can it do without a speed sensor then?
Speed sensor isn't critical so will run without one, though most bikes that have LCD display also record trip and odo miles so incorporate a speed sensor one way or the other to record mileage. With lcd display though if sensor not working will throw up an error code and some will not provide drive.
The swizzbee has no lcd or led handle bar display, though has a trinagle battery/electronics casing with on/oof & power control panel. Speed sensor is a remote coin battery operated Sigma front wheel unit with 1/4 turn fitment which records data.
Hi Phil, Dave and Neal, you are real gentlemen and massively knowledgable.
Thanks for helping Chris with his project, much appreciated.
All the best, David
Thanks for helping Chris with his project, much appreciated.
All the best, David
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D
Deleted member 4366
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If you use a KT controller without a speed sensor, it will take a speed signal from the motor halls. This means that the speed will go to zero when you freewheel.
8 wires to the motor means no speed sensor, so you should get a spoke magnet one.
8 wires to the motor means no speed sensor, so you should get a spoke magnet one.
Ok, great. And again thanks so much everyone. This forum is such an incredible source of information - and surely contributes a lot to getting more ebikes out there!
I’m at it again.
This time I’ve gotten as far as taking out the old controller and ready to replace with the one d8veh suggested.
But the new controller seems to have fewer wires going to the motor...
Old one has the bigger black connector with 8 wires.
New one has a smaller white connector with only six wires.
What do I do? Can I take the connector from the old controller and put it on the new to be able to hook up to the connector on my old motor? But what do I do with the missing wires?
New one: red,yellow , white, green, black, blue wires
Old one: black, red, blue, light blue, green, light green, yellow, very light green (or
maybe dark yellow?)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This time I’ve gotten as far as taking out the old controller and ready to replace with the one d8veh suggested.
But the new controller seems to have fewer wires going to the motor...
Old one has the bigger black connector with 8 wires.
New one has a smaller white connector with only six wires.
What do I do? Can I take the connector from the old controller and put it on the new to be able to hook up to the connector on my old motor? But what do I do with the missing wires?
New one: red,yellow , white, green, black, blue wires
Old one: black, red, blue, light blue, green, light green, yellow, very light green (or
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your black connector has the pahse and halls in place in one connector the white connector of the new controller has only hall wires.
In your first pic the black connector has 3 thicker phase wires yellow, green & blue on the bottom row these need to be connected to the three thick controller wires (with bullets) of corresponding colour (these can be seen in the second pic under the white hall block), temporary connect them up to ensure the motor runs smoothly then then use an MT3 connector for a neater join solution.
The five remaining thinner wires are the hall sensor wires and connect to the corresponding small wires of the same colour, the white one is for motors with internal speed sesnor and not used. In your case the Wisper may use an exteranl speed sensor along the rear stay with a spoke magnet, if so it simply needs connecting to the speed wire connector at the controller. This is red, white & black.
The white hall connector is part # DJ7061-2.8-21.
If you need one and cant get one I can sell you one with pins for £1.50 +p&p.
In your first pic the black connector has 3 thicker phase wires yellow, green & blue on the bottom row these need to be connected to the three thick controller wires (with bullets) of corresponding colour (these can be seen in the second pic under the white hall block), temporary connect them up to ensure the motor runs smoothly then then use an MT3 connector for a neater join solution.
The five remaining thinner wires are the hall sensor wires and connect to the corresponding small wires of the same colour, the white one is for motors with internal speed sesnor and not used. In your case the Wisper may use an exteranl speed sensor along the rear stay with a spoke magnet, if so it simply needs connecting to the speed wire connector at the controller. This is red, white & black.
The white hall connector is part # DJ7061-2.8-21.
If you need one and cant get one I can sell you one with pins for £1.50 +p&p.
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Nealh,
Thanks!!
When you say MT3 connector, is that the same that the hall connector that you have for sale? I'd gladly take that, but any chance you could post it to norway? (maybe I should look around here if they are available, but this sound like an easy way to get it)
Thanks again!
Thanks!!
When you say MT3 connector, is that the same that the hall connector that you have for sale? I'd gladly take that, but any chance you could post it to norway? (maybe I should look around here if they are available, but this sound like an easy way to get it)
Thanks again!
Sorry forgot you were in Norway, item was for UK mainland.
MT3 was an error on my part should have been MT60 3 wire connector, similar spec as XT60 2 wire connector.
The DJ7061 are available from Aliexpress as a male /female 10 pack.
Hi Chris, I've just converted a 905 to KT controller and display a couple of months ago. I retained the original throttle, pas, and brake sensor. Removed the green "speed" button on the left side of the bars. Had to remove the connector on the display to feed the wire through the frame. I will have a look later and take some photos if it will help.
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As someone who still has an original 905SE which is still going strong, albiet with one of Jimmy's rebuilt 36V batteries I was wondering about any advice/ recommendation as to which controller upgrade and what it will offer in terms of rideability.
I changed the controller because the PAS level buttons were not working correctly( only 2
). I had a 13 amp KT controller and LED display lying around (as you do!) , so it seemed a good idea. I found the lag on the PAS of original controller strange, kicked in OK, but a bit slow to disengage, although I'm sure I would of got used to it over time. The KT stuff just works for me and behaves exactly how I want. Havn't finished tinkering yet though, 17/20 amp KT and 48v battery is imminent.
). I had a 13 amp KT controller and LED display lying around (as you do!) , so it seemed a good idea. I found the lag on the PAS of original controller strange, kicked in OK, but a bit slow to disengage, although I'm sure I would of got used to it over time. The KT stuff just works for me and behaves exactly how I want. Havn't finished tinkering yet though, 17/20 amp KT and 48v battery is imminent.
OK, so main cable from handlebars or junction box, if you have one fitted next to the 3 main motors phase wires, black and yellow cut and connected to 3 wire throotle connector in middle of pic, sorry yellow changes to green, no spare yellow wire! This is a new connector not on old controller. Green and black from main wire into 2 pin brake sensor connector on new controller, right of picture. Why red becomes signal wire and neutral blue, no idea, had me scratching my head that one!!That again, new connector on black/green wires. White 5 way connector at bottom of pic from display, as I said had to remove it to feed wire through frame, very thin screwdriver, push down on the on the barbs on each connector and gently pull wire. 2nd pic, PAS sensor connector, centre, think this was straight plug in, but may have changed order of wires.
That again, new connector on black/green wires. White 5 way connector at bottom of pic from display, as I said had to remove it to feed wire through frame, very thin screwdriver, push down on the on the barbs on each connector and gently pull wire. 2nd pic, PAS sensor connector, centre, think this was straight plug in, but may have changed order of wires. Related Articles
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