Rear puncture on Wisper 705 SE

[TylerD]

Hello, my rear tyre got a puncture at the weekend. Took it into Halford's after checking that they could put new tyre on then got it back as they decided they couldn't.They suggested I try Evans in Glasgow but although they've said they can do it I have the feeling the same thing may happen again as I wasn't able to speak to the person who would do it and I was told that it would "probably" be ready to collect "a few days" after being dropped off. As the puncture happened on my 1st ride after having to wait a couple of weeks for me to get a new battery charger I'm really champing at the bit to get the new tyre on asap, so am wondering how hard it would be to do it myself.Or would that be silly as I am not atall handy and the one and only time I've changed a tyre was about 20 years ago!I did a search and saw the thread about doing same to a 905and wondered if it would be the same on the 705. Even then , would I need any special tools? I know what a spanner is that's about the limit of my diy knowledge!Any advice would be appreciated

 

[NRG]

Personally, I think it's essential to be able to repair a puncture by yourself. Do you have a local bike shop that you could take it to and ask them to show you how to do it?

 

[jerrysimon]

Hello, my rear tyre got a puncture at the weekend. Took it into Halford's after checking that they could put new tyre on then got it back as they decided they couldn't.

That's atrocious

It is the front wheel that is powered right ?

I agree get someone to show you how to do it.

PS Just checked and I see it is the back wheel that is powered. Even then as Halfords sell Electric Bikes I am surprised they turned you down.

Regards

Jerry

 

[tillson]

When you do have the puncture repaired, you should consider fitting a tyre with a degree of puncture resistance such as a Marathon Plus. This is especially so if you don't feel confident to do it yourself. The tyre will probably pay for itself in saved repair bills, especially if the bike shop has to fanny about with motors built into wheels and wires in order to repair a puncture.

 

[weirdfish]

That's atrocious

It is the front wheel that is powered right ?

I think its powered rear.



It's nice to know that in the current economic climate, there are companies that are doing so well they are willing to turn away business that may be ever so slightly more involved than the norm.

 

[Bandit]

How difficult is it to remove and replace the wheel of a hub-motored bike? I'm glad I have never had to do it - I have enough trouble with punctures on our crank drives. All this talk of punctures reminds me that it is puncture season here in the country - the annual event where hedge-cutting farmers seek to block the roads to cycle traffic until the cars and vans have cleared the carriageway of hawthorn traps.

 

[newbike]

Well my bike arrives today but I am really interested in this.

If and when someone comes back with the best ways of doing it, could I make it as a suggestions for a sticky as it is going to be a problem we all face at some time ( and I would rather know now while I don't have one than when I do have one ) .

On another note I presume sealers like sludge etc are OK to use on ebike innertubes?

 

[flecc]

On another note I presume sealers like sludge etc are OK to use on ebike innertubes?

In past posts about this, the majority find they don't work on tyres with inner tubes. I've tried four variants and each has let me down, and in all cases then making the puncture far more difficult to repair due to the slimy mess creeping everywhere.

These sealants were originally designed for tubeless car tyres where the greater thickness allows them to seal. On thin cycle tyres with the unstable relationship between tyre and deflating tube, the sealant has little chance of doing it's job.
.

 

[tillson]

Well my bike arrives today but I am really interested in this.

If and when someone comes back with the best ways of doing it, could I make it as a suggestions for a sticky as it is going to be a problem we all face at some time ( and I would rather know now while I don't have one than when I do have one ) .

On another note I presume sealers like sludge etc are OK to use on ebike innertubes?

The liquid sealers such as Slime and other silly named products don't tend to work too well on cycle tyres. Because a cycle usually has an inner tube fitted, the sealing liquid finds it's way between the tube and inner surface of the tyre. This results in an awful mess inside the tyre and no seal. This product can be ok on tubeless tyres on motorcycles, but not on our bikes.

A much better option is to invest in puncture resistant tyres. Marathon Plus are excellent.

 

[newbike]

I will invest in new tyres, just not until I have had a puncture.

 

[jerrysimon]

A much better option is to invest in puncture resistant tyres. Marathon Plus are excellent.

Good advice, Marathon Plus are certainly recommended for those who hate/don't feel confident about mending punctures.

Not 100% puncture proof, but pretty damn close

Regards

Jerry

 

[newbike]

We just need someone how to get innertubes and tyres of a driven wheel then and we will be sorted.

I will have a look later, I presume you have 2 choices. loosen the wheel and the cables and work very confined to the bike. (and hope you don't cause a lose solder to the motor)
Otherwise look at how to disconnect the motor at the controller. I think that would be the best just need to resecure the cables after with cable ties (if there are no holding guides)

 

[eddieo]

you just repair a tyre in place, or get some slack as you say by cutting wraps getting as much slack as possible, our Wisper's have a plug in tunnel under controller housing so can be disconnected. M + are a good preventative measure

 

[Wisper Bikes]

Thanks Eddie

Hi Tyler

As Eddie says it is relatively easy to mend the puncture wheel on. But should you want to remove the wheel there is a connector in the half cone under the controller box. My advice would be to remove the wheel, just take it slowly and you will not have much difficulty.

If you run into problems or need advice call me or drop an email to Steve at Support.

All the best

David

 

[Mussels]

Hello, my rear tyre got a puncture at the weekend. Took it into Halford's after checking that they could put new tyre on then got it back as they decided they couldn't.They suggested I try Evans in Glasgow but although they've said they can do it I have the feeling the same thing may happen again as I wasn't able to speak to the person who would do it and I was told that it would "probably" be ready to collect "a few days" after being dropped off. As the puncture happened on my 1st ride after having to wait a couple of weeks for me to get a new battery charger I'm really champing at the bit to get the new tyre on asap, so am wondering how hard it would be to do it myself.Or would that be silly as I am not atall handy and the one and only time I've changed a tyre was about 20 years ago!I did a search and saw the thread about doing same to a 905and wondered if it would be the same on the 705. Even then , would I need any special tools? I know what a spanner is that's about the limit of my diy knowledge!Any advice would be appreciated

You don't need a new tyre because you have a puncture! £3 for a puncture repair kit and 10 minutes work (remember you need a pump).
It might take an hour the first time you do it but it's a skill well worth practicing in a warm kitchen so you don't end up with a long walk when out for a ride. You don't need to take the wheel out though it may help to turn the bike upside down.

 

[flecc]

The Full Story

As Mussels says, there's no need to take the wheel out to repair a puncture. Just release the brake cable on rim brakes to give room alongside the brake pads and remove one side of the tyre (non-chain side with the rear) and you'll find you can take out the tube and feed it around within the frame/fork during a puncture repair operation. As a junior in the trade I had to do all the punctures that came in and only ever removed a wheel if replacing the tube, (and not always even then, but that's another story).

You'll need a puncture outfit, from any bike shop. With the bike upside down, take the non-chain side of the tyre off the rim, starting at the valve point, then pull the tube from the rim and free the valve from the rim so the tube sits between the wheel and frame.

Now pump some air into the tube and you'll hear it escaping from the spot where it's punctured. Clean the tube area at the puncture point with the little bit of sand paper that's in the puncture outfit. Then select a suitable size patch for it and take off any protective paper or foil from it's contact surface. Open the tube of rubber solution and put a little spot on the patch surface and quickly smooth it over the surface with a finger tip. Don't dally since it will start setting quickly. Then do the same on the punctured area of the tube, covering an area a bit bigger than the patch. Let the rubber solution completely dry on both.

When they are completely dry, centre the patch over the puncture hole and press the patch firmly in place, it will bond instantly. Take the small block of French chalk and either rub it against the rasp area on he puncture outfit box or scrape it with a knife edge to let a shower of a few chalk particles cover the patch and solution area. Smooth that over the area so there's no sticky surface left that might glue inside the tyre.

Pump just a little air into the tube to give it a tiny amount of pressure and ascertain there are no more leaks. The traditional way is by passing it through a bowl of water to let any stream of air bubbles show up. A less messy way is to use the lips, the most sensitive part of your skin, by passing the tube in front of your lips about half an inch away. The lips can detect the slightest air stream. Do this over an area covering a few inches either side of your original puncture since a sharp object can cause more than one puncture due to the tube shifting as it deflates.

Now release most of the air from the tube. Place your finger tips of one hand inside the tyre against the inside of the tread area and rotate the wheel right round, feeling for what caused the puncture, nail, stone, glass or thorn. If and when you locate it, prise it out from the tyre tread side.

Finally place the tube back into the tyre and put the tyre back onto the rim, starting opposite the valve point and working the tyre beads right into the well of the rim at that point. When the last bit is on at the valve point, pushing the valve in a little bit if necessary, make sure the tyre is sitting evenly all around the rim, then pump it a little, checking that the tube isn't trapped under a tyre beading. If all's well, complete the pumping.
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[LafRo]

Great story Flecc......but imho you don't have to use rubber solution on the patch. Just a little on the punctured surface of the tube. The patches are ready for use. In the old days they cut patches from an old inner tube, then they had to put rubber cement to it.

(P.S. some 10.000 punctures repaired by me).

 

[TylerD]

Thanks Flecc for the detailed reply. I stupidly just assumed that the wheel would have to come off and a new tyre put on. I'm so used to being told when I have a puncture in my car tyre that there's no point in trying to do a repair -usually after a lot of head shaking and teeth sucking by the mechanic - that I didn't even think about that here. I'll probably have a go at doing repair with wheel still on on Saturday but if I have to take it off and get stuck I'll take you up on your offer of advice David.

At the risk of sounding even more ignorant ,if I do take the wheel off, either to do the repair, or to put on a new tyre such as the M+ (which is tempting as I had to push the Wisper home a mile and a half in the dark, in the rain, so I'd quite like to avoid another puncture if poss) is there any special tool I would need other than a spanner /screwdriver.

Thanks also to everyone else who has replied. Its nice to know that you're out there and willing to help

PS yes, its a rear hub motor

 

[flecc]

Great story Flecc......but imho you don't have to use rubber solution on the patch. Just a little on the punctured surface of the tube. The patches are ready for use. In the old days they cut patches from an old inner tube, then they had to put rubber cement to it.

(P.S. some 10.000 punctures repaired by me).

I haven't a clue how many I've repaired, had to do all the incoming customer punctures six days a week for four years, plus my own 64 cycling years of punctures. I fully agree that solution isn't normally necessary on modern patches, but I include it since it does no harm and caters for the odd occasion of very old patches which have become jaded.
.

 

[flecc]

I'm so used to being told when I have a puncture in my car tyre that there's no point in trying to do a repair -usually after a lot of head shaking and teeth sucking by the mechanic - that I didn't even think about that here.

Once the carcase of a tubeless car tyre is damaged by a puncture, especially if the tyre wall is affected in any way, it can be dangerous to use the plugging methods to repair it with the speeds that are involved on the road. Alternatively heat vulcanising the rubber will seal the hole but won't compensate for any damage to the cording, so still potentially dangerous. At one time when speeds involved were slower and cars less sophisticated, repair was often effected by putting a tube into the tubeless tyre, but the added weight and increased heat generation that brings makes this dangerous with higher speeds.

if I do take the wheel off, either to do the repair, or to put on a new tyre such as the M+ (which is tempting as I had to push the Wisper home a mile and a half in the dark, in the rain, so I'd quite like to avoid another puncture if poss) is there any special tool I would need other than a spanner /screwdriver.

No, just the spanner for the wheel nuts, plus a set of tyre levers to lever off (and possibly on) the tyre beading from the rim. These are cheap and available in any bike shop. When using the levers, take great care not to trap the tube between the tyre beading and a lever tip, since this can pierce the tube. This is mostly a risk if levering on the tyre after repair, but working the tyre into the well of the rim as you put it back on will minimise the need to lever it on. With practice and skill, tyres can be put back on without levers, and many tyres I can get off rims without levers too.

Take it patiently first time and all will go well, it's much easier than the long explanation may make it seem.

P.S. Check you have the correct spanner. Many of these SB hub motors use 18mm wheel nuts and small spanner kits often jump from 17 to 19 mm. It's possible to make your own from a spare spanner if you haven't got an 18 mm, to do that see this link on my website:

Making an 18 mm spanner
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