Q128H - Wheelbuild Info Needed

[tongxinpete]

Does anyone have a drawing for the above motor, what I need is the flange dia (spoke hole centre to centre across the flange), the flange width, & the offset info for a rear wheel, as here https://leonard.io/edd/howtomeasure
I hope to get the spokes from bmsbatt at the same time as the motor, thinking of going 1X pattern as I only just made it with 3X when I put a Q100 into a 24'' rim. What gauge for this setup best, eg 12?
There used to be drawings for the motor on the bmsbatt site, seem to have disappeared.

 

[anotherkiwi]

http://cyclurba.fr/forum/188305/nouveaux-modn-les-q100-et-s-cnOble-hors-axe-cassette-vitesse-nO-canelures.html?discussionID=9933

 

[NJS]

Does anyone have a drawing for the above motor, what I need is the flange dia (spoke hole centre to centre across the flange), the flange width, & the offset info for a rear wheel, as here https://leonard.io/edd/howtomeasure
I hope to get the spokes from bmsbatt at the same time as the motor, thinking of going 1X pattern as I only just made it with 3X when I put a Q100 into a 24'' rim. What gauge for this setup best, eg 12?
There used to be drawings for the motor on the bmsbatt site, seem to have disappeared.

I have this. [strike]I don't remember where I downloaded it from[/strike].
Update: I found it here

 

[Deleted member 4366]

For anyone that wants the cassette version, see attached pdf. I have them all on my cloud drive, but I can't access it since the last Win 10 update.

 

[NJS]

For anyone that wants the cassette version, see attached pdf. I have them all on my cloud drive, but I can't access it since the last Win 10 update.

Is that a cassette version of the H, or just the normal Q128C?

 

[tongxinpete]

Thanks NJS & all, I am a bit doubtful in that I cannot tell how the nipples supplied by bms will sit in the rim holes - need this for the ERD (have the double wall rim on its way). Is the 12g & 1X pattern practical? I am pretty sure I have seen one of these done 1X on here or ES. Agree windows 10 is a pain, updates seem to raise as many issues as they solve!

 

[Nealh]

My Q128c in a 700c rim I laced as 2X how ever the spoke /nipple entry wasn't perfect and did have a slight angle, 1X should be perfect.

For spokes I use 14g Sapim strong measured to order off an ebay seller, I think these were the preferred spokes used by Catsnapper who used to post on here. Occasionally he now pops up on another cycling forum

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks NJS & all, I am a bit doubtful in that I cannot tell how the nipples supplied by bms will sit in the rim holes - need this for the ERD (have the double wall rim on its way). Is the 12g & 1X pattern practical? I am pretty sure I have seen one of these done 1X on here or ES. Agree windows 10 is a pain, updates seem to raise as many issues as they solve!

I wouldn't use 12g spokes. 14g would be much better, or if you want to waste some money get 14g spokes with butted ends. The elasticicity of thinner spokes gives much fewer problems with spokes breaking and coming loose.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Is that a cassette version of the H, or just the normal Q128C?

The cassette version of the Q128H is the Q128C.

 

[NJS]

The cassette version of the Q128H is the Q128C.

I thought I remembered you saying that the Q128C had (30%) narrower stator/rotor/magnets than the Q128H.

But maybe that was the Q100C/H?

Or have the designs of the Q128C/H changed again recently?

(I know(read) the early Q128H had single stage gears and was relatively gutless back around the 2012 mark. But was then upgraded with dual stage reduction and (in some speculations) better magnets.)

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There's the original Q128 - 201 rpm for 26" wheels and 328rpm for small wheels. The 201 rpm one was gutless.

Then, they introduced the 260 rpm Q128H, which probably had better magnets and wire.

Then they introduced the Q128C, which probably has the same magnets and wire as the Q128H, but it has to be narrower because of the length of the cassette spline. Like the Q128, there were two speed versions - 201 and 328 rpm.

Finally, all sorts of different speed versions for each type.

They did the same with the Q100, but, at first, the Q100H didn't give much more torque (if any) than the Q100. Instead, it made its high torque at different rpm, so had more usable torque when up to speed. It's possible, therefore, that the first H versions didn't have better magnets and wire, but I'm pretty sure that they do now.

 

[NJS]

Then they introduced the Q128C, which probably has the same magnets and wire as the Q128H, but it has to be narrower because of the length of the cassette spline.

Doesn't that mean that the Q128C diagram would have different offsets from the Q128H?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Offsets makes no difference. I always use the same spoke length on each side even when I build an offset. This is no problem when you have double walled rims because there's about 5mm tolerance on the spoke length. Obviously, the closer you get to the ideal length the better, but the suppliers often only supply the spokes with 2mm steps in length anyway, so you can't get your ideal length.

 

[anotherkiwi]

All spokes I have calculated for Q100 or Q128 had a 2 mm length difference between drive side and non drive side in 2 X for a 28" rim whatever the ERD of the rim in question if that helps. Mxus hub the same.

 

[NJS]

Offsets makes no difference. I always use the same spoke length on each side even when I build an offset. This is no problem when you have double walled rims because there's about 5mm tolerance on the spoke length. Obviously, the closer you get to the ideal length the better, but the suppliers often only supply the spokes with 2mm steps in length anyway, so you can't get your ideal length.

I was warned that using spokes that were more than a milliletre or two longer than needed could lead to the nipple bottoming out on the thread before the required tension was achieved.

As the length calculators (I used several) all agreed that I would need a 2-3mm difference left to right, I opted for 18x two different lengths.

FYI: These guys supply 14g spokes in a variety of colours and cut to the nearest 1mm, for a good price, nipples included, and fast, free delivery.

For anyone doing this for the first time, my top tip is to buy a spoke spanner that exactly and only fits the spokes you are going to use. I already had a 4-in-one spoke spanner and thought it would do the job. It did, but I spent about half the time of the entire job re-orienting the spanner to the right way around. Painful.

 

[tongxinpete]

Thanks again all, for the advice. Not sure who to go with on the spokes as bms would work out rather cheaper. Interestingly the spokes do not add to the shipping costs! I did once try to interest them in the Chengzhou to Lodz (Poland) express goods train - ideal for batteries