February 3, 201313 yr Hi all, I'm using a Q100, 201rpm, 36V, 250-350w motor with an e-crazyman 36V, 350w EB306 controller. I'm programming with XPD and wondered how far I could reasonably push the current settings.
February 4, 201313 yr I'm running 12.5 amps on 15s lipo (63v hot off the charger). Gives about 780watts peak. No overheating thus far, although the gears do sound like they grumble a bit if I give it full beans from a standstill, so I try to be easy on the throttle and always pedal as well.
February 4, 201313 yr I'm running 12.5 amps on 15s lipo (63v hot off the charger). Gives about 780watts peak. No overheating thus far, although the gears do sound like they grumble a bit if I give it full beans from a standstill, so I try to be easy on the throttle and always pedal as well. I agree. About 800w from the battery is the sweet spot. Any less is the sweat spot .
February 4, 201313 yr Author I've just tried it at 15a with 36V battery (~42V charged); That'd be about 630w. It seemed to go quite well but still needs a bit of leg work when the wind hits. It was barely warm after about 3 miles so I'll probably try it at ~19a when I get the chance... See if I can hit the sweet spot too. @amigafan2003: I know what you mean about a standing start with the throttle... It's not at all happy. lol
February 4, 201313 yr I've just tried it at 15a with 36V battery (~42V charged); That'd be about 630w. It seemed to go quite well but still needs a bit of leg work when the wind hits. It was barely warm after about 3 miles so I'll probably try it at ~19a when I get the chance... See if I can hit the sweet spot too. @amigafan2003: I know what you mean about a standing start with the throttle... It's not at all happy. lol Are you running sensorless, because these motors run much better sensored. I've not had any trouble starting with the throttle without pedalling.
February 4, 201313 yr Author Sensored. It's fine once I'm rolling a bit. I wonder if there's something not quite right there...
February 4, 201313 yr Sensored. It's fine once I'm rolling a bit. I wonder if there's something not quite right there... The KU63 controllers that BMSBattery supply are high speed controllers and are specially suited to the Q100 motor. I don't know if that means high commutation speed, which shouldn't have much advantage at start-up, or maybe they work faster to give more accurate timing. Who knows, but it seems that some controllers work better than others with some motors.
February 4, 201313 yr Author I tried it first with a KU63 and the throttle start was the same. I'm not sure if the gears are actually slipping or what. I'll have a good listen to it and see what it sounds like.
February 4, 201313 yr By coincidence my EB306 turned up today, just need to change the brake and power plugs to sockets and I'll give it a test and see how it runs. Very important to make sure that the halls are properly connected as that can cause roughness
February 4, 201313 yr Author Yes, I had to change a few connectors too. I matched the hall colours, found the right phase combination and it all went very smoothly.
February 4, 201313 yr Ok.. Matched hall colours and motor low speed runs rough with excessive current, so will have to have a game of swapping and see if it can be improved Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
February 5, 201313 yr Author If it helps, I ended up with: ctrl blue > mtr green ctrl green > mtr yellow ctrl yellow > mtr blue
February 5, 201313 yr If it helps, I ended up with: ctrl blue > mtr green ctrl green > mtr yellow ctrl yellow > mtr blue Lol.... kinda I arrived at the same but still a little bit of roughness... so I decided in my infinite wisdom to continue running through the possibilitys. I returned the motor phases to normal and redid the halls.. got as far as yellow to green green to blue blue to yellow which I think was even better... now here is where I should of stopped, but did I ? NO I did one more and bang !!! accompanied with the customary nasty burning smell. [ATTACH]5018.vB[/ATTACH] Ho hum, I'll give it a bit of thought later
February 5, 201313 yr ... now here is where I should of stopped, but did I ? NO I did one more and bang !!! accompanied with the customary nasty burning smell. Ho hum, I'll give it a bit of thought later Dear oh dear!. My heart is bleeding for you. If it's a FET that blown, I 've got a spare IRFB4110, if that's what you need. They're not easy to replace though. You have to be very careful not to lift the pads, and the pads are very close to others, so a danger of whiskers/bridges etc. Not sure yet what went wrong with Dave's, but for anybody else figuring out phase/hall combinations: Never use full throttle during the testing because with the wrong combination, the motor is effectively stalled, so a high risk of blowing FETs. If you can, use a meter to monitor no-load current, which is the best gauge of whether you have the right combination.
February 5, 201313 yr I'll give it a close examination tomorrow as I have the right raving hump with it at the moment, and we all know what happens to things when we are in that kind of mood, lol I think I will see if its still programmable before embarking on on the examination, just in case the crash of drums and flash of light fried the processor If you can, use a meter to monitor no-load current, which is the best gauge of whether you have the right combination. Which in hindsight would of been a great plan ... next time
February 5, 201313 yr Lol... Well I got a round tuit a while back but it didn't help at all [ATTACH]5019.vB[/ATTACH] Sorry about the shakey photo.. but I was laughing Edited February 5, 201313 yr by Old_Dave
February 5, 201313 yr Author Oh no!!! Sorry to hear that Dave, I'm feeling for you... I like the idea of doing the hall wires instead of the motor wires, though. Mine seems to be running as well as I'd expect but it'd be simpler when reconnecting the controller instead of having to remember the magic combination.
February 5, 201313 yr Its one reason I prefer a sensor-less setup even if there some slight disadvantages.
February 5, 201313 yr Update .. good news is that it appears to be talking to the Lyen mark2 controller program, not sure if thats the right one to use... but hey, it cant get any worse [ATTACH]5020.vB[/ATTACH]
February 5, 201313 yr Your phase current is far too high for a standard e-crazyman controller or is that just a screen grab from somewhere else? Rule of thumb is 2~2.5x the battery current so 35 or so with the above.
February 5, 201313 yr It was just a quick test to see if it would talk to me.. http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Others/others-062.gif I'll do some sensible settings if the repair goes ok
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