Punctures
- Thread starter saneagle
- Start date
Hum, I wonder ?
As I had my first flat on my new cube last week, I went to get my bike out only to find a compleatly flat 2.2" tyre, there was a thorn in the tyre but the tube was loose inside so the hole in it didn't quite line up with the thorn in the tyre and after patching & re-inflating I found a second hole on the inside (opposite) edge of the tube. It must have been the one thorn in one side of the tube & out the other.
I'm assuming this device will only fix flats when the puncture hole lines up in both tube & tyre and is on the outside of the tube.
Probably a good bit of kit that will fix 80% or more of all punctures but I can't see how it copes with a through & through from a long thorn or a double hole from a pinch puncture.
I'll stick with my skabs for now, tried & tested
As I had my first flat on my new cube last week, I went to get my bike out only to find a compleatly flat 2.2" tyre, there was a thorn in the tyre but the tube was loose inside so the hole in it didn't quite line up with the thorn in the tyre and after patching & re-inflating I found a second hole on the inside (opposite) edge of the tube. It must have been the one thorn in one side of the tube & out the other.
I'm assuming this device will only fix flats when the puncture hole lines up in both tube & tyre and is on the outside of the tube.
Probably a good bit of kit that will fix 80% or more of all punctures but I can't see how it copes with a through & through from a long thorn or a double hole from a pinch puncture.
I'll stick with my skabs for now, tried & tested
I have marathons on mine with slimed giant tubes, earlier in year went out for my first ride. Got half a mile out the village and puncture, No problem I thought just blow it back up and carry on. Nope as I am blowing it up the valve stem broke off. Nothing is fool proof!!!! Had to call the emergency services (the wife)
Has anyone tried going tubeless? I met a mountain biker the other day who swore by Stan's NoTubes. He said it was more effective than Slime and when I asked him about weight he said it was lighter. I don't know about for road bikes but looking at reviews by mountain bikers, it seems like those who use it love it.
As I see it e-bikes have pucture problems of their own.. My first one presented the problem of what to do about al the gadgetry on the bars when you turn the bike upside down. Then there's the hubs and other stuff... Is there a simple way of fixing a flat? I bought a one shot repair inflator thing from aldi, but won't know if it works until I need to use it.
Puncture wise..
Road bike... 1200 miles no flats.
E-bike 2500 miles one flat
Puncture wise..
Road bike... 1200 miles no flats.
E-bike 2500 miles one flat
I put Giant thornproof tubes in mine and haven't had a puncture since. Another plus point is that they now hold pressure far better. And what's more, they're hardly even any more expensive than regular ones
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/giant-inner-tube-26x15-175-thorn-resistant-sv-id73291.html
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/giant-inner-tube-26x15-175-thorn-resistant-sv-id73291.html
With my KTM trekking i have used the panniers (soft emptyish ones) and coat / clothes to protect gadgetry on handlebars. That works but bit wobbly. tried watching some youtube vidoes bragging how to fix a ouncture without taking wheel off. they are having a laugh.
Not seen any videos on how to do the same with a heavy pedelec with gadgetry as you say and more gadgetry stuff stuck on wheel thignies. In my case sram click box.. But have learnt how to do that over time.
Despite all the threads about punctures and all the suggestions I have not got a clue which one brand / type is the best. Does not seem to be a consensus at all.
Not seen any videos on how to do the same with a heavy pedelec with gadgetry as you say and more gadgetry stuff stuck on wheel thignies. In my case sram click box.. But have learnt how to do that over time.
Despite all the threads about punctures and all the suggestions I have not got a clue which one brand / type is the best. Does not seem to be a consensus at all.
Phill, Wissy,
Here's a way to protect all the handlebar kit that I used on one e-bike:
Handlebar protectors
.
Here's a way to protect all the handlebar kit that I used on one e-bike:
Handlebar protectors
.
I'm running on Schwalbe Smart Sam+'s with slime tubes:
When I fitted the new tyre to the front, which already had the slime tube under a worn-out Bontrager tyre, there were 4 thorn-holes in the tube with slime around them.
As a bit of a hexperiment I left the tube as is & it holds pressure fine after about 500 miles, so I'll probably not change it until something cat-ass-troffick occurs.
A set of end bars works for me, dead easy to fit and gives a good three point solid ground contact.
Also useful for an alternate hand position on long rides and more leverage if standing on the pedals for uphills.
About a fiver upwards.
Dave.
There will never be unanimity over which tyre is best but empirical evidence would suggest if we consider only hybrid-type EAPCs, in any poll Schwalbe MP would be highly regarded. Schwalbe also produce very good tyres for other applications though, arguably, many other tyre makers have equally good products for those fields.
As for price, frankly, given the difference between the best and middle-of-the-road priced tyres, allied to the the tyre life and peace of mind from the best, I don't think too many would begrudge paying the extra.
There's a pair of Continentals in my shed with maybe 50 miles of use on them. I had no hesitation about replacing those with MPs immediately after experiencing my first puncture. The MPs will probably last me several years and only added about 1lb in weight to the bike so I'm happy to pay out for increased peace of mind.
Tom
Flecc.. Thanks and a damned good idea. I will look into that... Need cute ones though
What are differences between the following:
Scwhalbe Marathon Plus
Schwalbe Energizer Plus 40-622
Schwalbe Energizer Tour 700 x 40c
it must be a man that came up with these stupid names and labelling. Ok i get 700 is the wheel thing but what is 40c and what is 622 ??
What are differences between the following:
Scwhalbe Marathon Plus
Schwalbe Energizer Plus 40-622
Schwalbe Energizer Tour 700 x 40c
it must be a man that came up with these stupid names and labelling. Ok i get 700 is the wheel thing but what is 40c and what is 622 ??
Not so much gender as the different countries and measurements methods involved Wissy.
We originally used inches of course, 20" and 26" being the approximate overall diameter of a tyre, and the tyre width in inches as well of course, 1 1/2", 2" etc.
The 700 is the overall tyre diameter in millimetres instead, with tyre width in millimeters too, hence those 40 measures.
At some point someone on the continent decided that overall tyre diameter was silly since it varies with the tyre type and tread, so an alternative of rim diameter was used instead, hence that 622 (rim 622 mm = tyre 700 mm diameters).
So we end up with a mix of methods. It's yards, metres, rods, poles and perches, kilometres, fathoms and leagues all over again!
The Energiser tyres are intended for e-bikes and have low rolling resistance with much of the additional puncture protection of the Marathon Plus.
The Pro, Tour and Plus versions have different treads, the efficiency in that order from high to low, but the efficiency differences very small.
The Marathon Plus has the lowest efficiency but the best puncture protection of all those, but again, the efficiency differences are not huge and will hardly be noticed on an e-bike.
Getting the right tread for your usage is more important, fairly smooth for all road use in good conditions, a bit heavier profiled tread if some off road paths are used, and deeper cut all the way to knobblies for really tough off-road stuff.
.
We originally used inches of course, 20" and 26" being the approximate overall diameter of a tyre, and the tyre width in inches as well of course, 1 1/2", 2" etc.
The 700 is the overall tyre diameter in millimetres instead, with tyre width in millimeters too, hence those 40 measures.
At some point someone on the continent decided that overall tyre diameter was silly since it varies with the tyre type and tread, so an alternative of rim diameter was used instead, hence that 622 (rim 622 mm = tyre 700 mm diameters).
So we end up with a mix of methods. It's yards, metres, rods, poles and perches, kilometres, fathoms and leagues all over again!
The Energiser tyres are intended for e-bikes and have low rolling resistance with much of the additional puncture protection of the Marathon Plus.
The Pro, Tour and Plus versions have different treads, the efficiency in that order from high to low, but the efficiency differences very small.
The Marathon Plus has the lowest efficiency but the best puncture protection of all those, but again, the efficiency differences are not huge and will hardly be noticed on an e-bike.
Getting the right tread for your usage is more important, fairly smooth for all road use in good conditions, a bit heavier profiled tread if some off road paths are used, and deeper cut all the way to knobblies for really tough off-road stuff.
.
Last edited:
Ride quality on firmer surfaces is the problem with tubeless, which is why you only see them on mountain bikes.
A tubeless tyre on cinder tracks or anything harder will not corner or handle nicely - you wouldn't like the experience.
This weakness doesn't matter on mountain bike trails because they are softer and there is so much else going on - rocks, mud, tree roots etc - so you don't notice it as much.
Related Articles
-
MTF Enterprises announces acquisition of EMU Electric Bikes- Started by: Pedelecs
-
Wisper 806T folding bike wins Which? ‘Best Buy’- Started by: Pedelecs
-
Sustrans calls for protected cycle lanes- Started by: Pedelecs
-
Amazon launch their first UK e-cargo micromobility hub- Started by: Pedelecs
