Punctures, a third way

[Beeping-Sleauty]

there is a superb thread about tyres elsewhere on this board,

and there is a current thread about tyre sealants,

the other alternative to the dreaded 'flat' is Tuffy Tape, there are other commercial brands, long ago in my prime, i was a cycle messenger ( for my sins ) in central London, covered 5,000 miles over a period of years, on a heavy MTB frame and slick tyres with no punctures, in moments of idle curiosity i would up-end the bike and pick the slivers of glass & metal from my tyres and smile.

i'd love a set of those Schwalbe puncture-free, but i got to save up the £50 first, and it seems a shame to waste the brand new tyres on the bike,

plus you don't have to take the wheels off, just deflate the tyre, flip the tyre out of the rim on one side, the tuffy tape is like trouser belt, cut it to length you need, plus over-wrap and slide it up between the tube and the tyre wall.

and it costs about £10, ..... priceless

beeps

 

[flecc]

I've never tried it, but it sounds good. There's a misleading comment about no UK distribution on the CTC website, but these people do two types, including Mr Tuffy.

 

[rsscott]

On my previous Cyclone electric bike the supplied tyres were useless. I quickly installed some Marathon's (not the Plus model) and bought a pair of those tyre liners. I think they cost around £10 from the local bike shop. There are quite a few around from different suppliers.

 

[JohnInStockie]

Has anyone tried these or anything like them?

Hancox Ltd | Amerityre tyres stop punctures, puncture proof tyres, flat free tyres, replacement wheelbarrow tyres, bicycle tyres, all round protection from punctures


Or this stuff...

NoTubes.com - About Our Tubeless System and a review at Cool Tool: NoTubes

What do people think of these?

John

 

[JohnInStockie]

No one got any experience or knowledge of these then??

OK, its time to trawl the web forums . . .

John

 

[rsscott]

No one got any experience or knowledge of these then??

OK, its time to trawl the web forums . . .

John

Sorry John, no experience of them i'm afraid. I still think the best solution is a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Plus. All I've ever heard is good reports and thousands of miles puncture-free (including 7,000 of my own) !

 

[flecc]

Sorry John, I had thought of coming in but waited in case anyone had specific knowledge. What I do know is that every time one of these come in from the States, the review is the same. Namely, lack of lateral rigidity giving a "squidginess" and slightly unstable feel on corners, plus a "flat" at each wheel turn, due to them being made from continuous moulding with the join spoiling the foam structure at that point. Every import, and I've known of at least three, seems to cease very quickly.

I think it's one of those good ideas which aren't yet capable of proper implementation. The US market consumers are noticeably more receptive to new ideas and more prepared to try things out and scrap if necessary.

 

[JohnInStockie]

Thanks Russ, Flecc

I am in a bit of a quandry at the mo. Its hard to consider a daily 12-13 mile commute each way every morning and night if I have to be ready to repair a flat on my Twist (I havent yet figured out how I could turn the bike over and get the the brakes and gears and chain off to repair a puncture without damaging something on the handlebars or something on the drive).

Sad to say, but for me on a non-electric bike, say a bog-standard mountain bike, it'd be a 2 minute job. But this, with disc brakes, hub gears at back and a hub dynamo at the front (which I have never owned ever), and the strange chain tensioner system is really wierd to me. I feel quite intimidated by the idea of even turning the bike over without braking something. You would expect reasonable manuals to be provided with the bike, not 5 year old ones that dont bear any resembalance!

My situation is, I have to use this bike sucessfully every day to get to work, and I have to arrive ready to work. Punctures cant be a part of the story. Its wierd, if I get a flat in a car, and need the tyre repaired, my colleagues at work wouldnt think twice about me missing the whole morning, but they wouldnt say the same over a bike puncture, even though it is my mode of transport (prejudism!!).

I suppose my only options (if those solid foam tyres are rubbish) is the marathons, with a backup option of walking home otherwise (as I am not likely to be able to turn the bike over without damaging something on the handlebars, and those items are almost irreplaceable.

I would have thought that by now, someone somewhere would have found a true 'puncture proofing' capability, whatever the cost.

John

 

[flecc]

I think the Marathon Plus are that John, only an extremely unlucky "through the wall" piercing, or an unusually sharp and long object at exactly the right penetration angle could defeat them, but it's never happened to me or Russ, both of us firm fans of those great tyres. £24 each might seem dear, but in truth they're a bargain.

I have to say that I don't find punctures as intimidating as most, and always wonder why wheel removal is mentioned nearly every time. I wouldn't dream of disturbing a wheel to mend a tube, I just take it out of the side of the tyre and patch it in situ.

I'd advise you do as I do with any new bike with features I'm not familiar with. I do dummy runs of wheel partial removals to allow a tube change, doing this in the comfort of home. That way any possible snags are met and overcome, things like not having the correct spanner etc without it being an emergency situation. Don't forget to try out the pump as well to eliminate any snags with using that. With the confidence of having done that, it's not half as traumatic when it happens for real.

The only fragile thing of concern when turning over the bike is the plastic motor switch. If you examine that, then push on it's front edge, you'll find it slides out from it's mounting so it can hang loose and not get crushed. If you fit a speedo, that does the same of course. Carrying a rectangle of polythene sheet to put down will look after the handlebar and saddle finish.

To turn the bike over easily, first lift out the battery to reduce the weight (don't forget to have the key with you). Then lean across the bike from the left hand side, grasp the R/H fork leg and the rear triangle upper tube with left and right hands just below the rims, and start lifting. Let the saddle lean against you, and as you lift, the natural swing out of the bike will revolve it towards upside down for you to set it down. Once again, rehearse this at home first, several times, and you'll be surprised how easy it really is.

With those practices achieved, you'll have the confidence not to fear the possibility of a puncture. Even if you fit a pair of Marathon Plus, I'd still advise the practices to give you that confidence, because freedom from worry is important for you to enjoy the cycling to it's maximum.

 

[JohnInStockie]

Of course your right Flecc

I am going to have to 'get to know the bike' as well as 'get to know the technology'. I just wish that I had been given the instructions for the hub gears / hub dynamo / disc brakes e.t.c. so that I didnt have to work out how they work, and can be removed properly.

For example the lights, on the front is a Lumotec halogen dynamo driven off the front hub drive. Can I find anyway of switching it off, nope!! It has 3 settings for the switch on the light, all of which switch it on!! I have read that the hub itself has a sensor built in for light level sensitivity, but without any guides at all, who knows??

I may find out how some of these things work over the course of years, which is frankly ridiculous - Why No Instructions...grrrr

 

[rsscott]

Hi John,

I back up the excellent advice from Flecc there. It's definitely worth trialling a few wheel tyre/wheel removals in the comfort of your own home (ok, maybe not indoors!) to familiarise yourself with all the tools you'll need and the process that you would follow. I can see nothing worse than having to do a roadside puncture in the dark and not be prepared.

I've never found any damage to occur to the bikes especially if you lay the bike upside down on grass.

As for my 'kit'

• Schwalbe Marathon Plus
• 2 cans of Slime/Co2 (supplied in the same can)
• Tyre removal kit
• Spanners
• Adjustable Wrench
• Cyclaire Pump (superb)
• Puncture repair kit
• Extra torch
• Tape
• Tie-wraps
• Inner tube
• Mobile Phone
• Money

As you can see, quite a lot of items but if you are commuting a 13-miles each way, they are essential.

I'm also going to back my kit up by purchasing the ETA cycle/puncture cover just in case I am unable to do a roadside repair.

cheers
Russ

 

[JohnInStockie]

Thanks Russ, more good advice.

I am going to do as both yourself and Flecc have advised, as I cant hink of anything worse than that either! I think I will base my 'kit' on yours.

What are the Tape and Tie-Wraps for ??

I bought a tiny multifunction gismo from Decathlon which alledgedly has 'every' tool you need for cycle repair so I'll attempt a repair with that before I buy a real kit.

The first thing I have to do is get some Marathon Plus tyres, and then work out how to take off the old ones (not impossible) and put on the new ones and reconnect everything (maybe more dificult).

Its a shame I dont have a bike shop nearby (not counting Halfords and I dont), from all the contacts I have spoken to, the nearest 'decent' bike shop is 12 miles away, and they dont know anything about electric bikes (so annual servicing is going to be a 'home done' jobby, unless I send the bike back to London).

So much to learn . . . . . still, once I know how to do these things I will be all the better for it. I can say I wouldnt even be contemplating it without this site though, thanks for the advice.

John

 

[flecc]

Fitting two Marathon Plus is a great opportunity to get to really know and master the bike John.

I've never used those lights, but I understand they are supposed to be like that so that they always come on when needed and prevent forgetfullness leaving you without a light showing.

 

[rsscott]

Hi John,

the tape and tie-wraps are really just in case something decides to fall off or become loose. I had an instance on my previous electric bike whereby one of the nuts holding the rack came off and the tie wrap was perfect to hold it in place until I got home. The tape will be useful if I need to seal any of the electrical connections.

Definitely test out all your connections with your gizmo. I've found some of them in the past to be difficult to work with in tight places due to the rest of the gizmo still being attached to whatever function you are using at the time.

Your local bike shop will still be able to service your bike for you, they just won't know anything about the electrics. They should still be more than capable of dealing with everything else !!

My LBS was hesistant at first, but once they've seen you a few times they start to relax !

 

[Flying Kiwi]

I bought a tiny multifunction gismo from Decathlon which alledgedly has 'every' tool you need for cycle repair

I thought that was the second to last item on the list Russ gave (well in conjunction with the last) But seriously, good on you if you want to be independant with regards to maintenance and repairs. In this day and age thats getting rarer, particularly with more technologically advanced products.

Its a shame I dont have a bike shop nearby (not counting Halfords and I dont), from all the contacts I have spoken to, the nearest 'decent' bike shop is 12 miles away, and they dont know anything about electric bikes (so annual servicing is going to be a 'home done' jobby, unless I send the bike back to London).

I used to live in Didsbury, just over the hill from Stockport and there's at least one Giant Dealer in the area much closer than 12 miles away from the centre of Stockport - whether they meet your expectations/requirments though I don't know as I didn't have my Twist Comfort back then. Have you reviewed Giants Dealer locator here: Giant Bicycles | Dealers ?

 

[Flying Kiwi]

I just wish that I had been given the instructions for the hub gears / hub dynamo / disc brakes e.t.c. so that I didnt have to work out how they work, and can be removed properly.

For example the lights, on the front is a Lumotec halogen dynamo driven off the front hub drive. Can I find anyway of switching it off, nope!! It has 3 settings for the switch on the light, all of which switch it on!! I have read that the hub itself has a sensor built in for light level sensitivity, but without any guides at all, who knows??

I may find out how some of these things work over the course of years, which is frankly ridiculous - Why No Instructions...grrrr

You should have received seperate leaflets covering the headlight, both hubs (which incorporate "roller" brakes which are a form of drum brake), the suspension forks and seatpost as well as the brake levers. I'd get in touch with the dealer or Giant and ask them to supply those. The disc on the front hub is just to dissapate heat for brake cooling - its not actually a disc brake.

The B+M Oval Lumitec Senso headlight can be easily turned off to the middle switch position, this will stop it coming on at all even when its dark though. I leave my (upgraded model) Oval D'lumotec senso plus switch in the Auto mode almost alll the time. If you check your PMs I can give you some links where you can download some instructions in the mean-time if needed. I also have the rear light instructions if reqd but I got that from the light manufacturer directly.

 

[JohnInStockie]

I used to live in Didsbury, just over the hill from Stockport and there's at least one Giant Dealer in the area much closer than 12 miles away from the centre of Stockport - whether they meet your expectations/requirments though I don't know as I didn't have my Twist Comfort back then. Have you reviewed Giants Dealer locator here: Giant Bicycles | Dealers ?

Yes I have looked on their website, and I understand that of those bike shops, Ken Fosters in Chorlton is probably the one to go for. Unfortunately I dont live in the centre of Stockport, but in Hazel Grove, which is about 3-4 miles further away, and so my 12 miles to that particular store.

The other store there that has been recommended is the one in Urmston, but thats even further away. My 'local' bike shop is about 4.5 miles away, but I dont know of anyone giving either good or bad advice about that shop (which I think is strange given its the only one) and from what I have seen when I have been there, they are a very basic shop (nothing wrong with that of course) so I think they may not have the Marathon Plus's nor be competitively priced, but they should be good for the general bike maintenance.

Re the leaflets - I got nothing, just a 2001 manual for the standard Twist. Checking my PMs thanks

 

[flecc]

The first thing I have to do is get some Marathon Plus tyres, and then work out how to take off the old ones (not impossible) and put on the new ones and reconnect everything (maybe more dificult).

One thing I forgot to mention on the Marathon Plus with the Twist series John, is the higher profile of those Plus tyres

With typical attention to detail, the Twist rear mudguard bottom fixing by the stand has a quarter inch spacer between mudguard and frame to get the mudguard close to the standard tyre. If this is left in place, the wheel with an inflated Marathon Plus cannot move far enough forward to exit the dropouts, so the wheel has to have the tyre deflated to be fitted or removed.

Undoing the screw and removing the spacer resets the mudguard profile for deeper tyres and overcomes that difficulty.