Problems with Mac motor cutting out.

Justin.Clements

Pedelecer
Apr 1, 2015
58
1
59
What feels like slipping clutch could be just the controller losing sync unless you heard the motor whining at full speed with no drive.
It didn't lose all drive though it did lose power.

I've been searching the forum about losing sync, I don't really understand what you mean by it but I see from your posts on other threads that it can be hall sensor related which is the most likely in my case.

I think one of the hall sensors got positioned slightly lower than the other two. Could this be causing the problem?
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
When the controller fires it's pulses not in time with the motor rotation, you get juddering that feels like a serious mechanical problem. It's often caused by a faulty hall signal but can happen when you have a controller that's not suitable for your motor. If your controller was evr running OK with your motor, that's not very likely, so have a good look at your hall sensors and their connections.
 

Justin.Clements

Pedelecer
Apr 1, 2015
58
1
59
Thanks d8veh, I think all is ok now. I'll put this post up in case it helps anyone else.

I checked the hall sensor connector and although it feels like a loose fit (or at least slides in very easily) I'm satisfied that it's making good contact. When connected to the tester all the hall indicators light up in turn and when connected to the throttle the wheel turns.

I was ready to replace the hall sensors thinking the sync problem must be to do with their position. It was a bit of a bodge when I put them in. I thought the best method would be to put the epoxy in all three positions and thread the hall sensors through the holes on the pcb so there's not a problem lining them up once glued in. The epoxy obscured the gaps where the sensors were going into and trying to line up all 3 got a bit messy and I think one of them got pushed down further than the other 2. My advice to any fellow newbie doing this for the first time would be to glue each sensor in separately before putting the pcb on.

So I took the motor out again. There was something else that had been bothering me in that there was a gap on the shaft between the circlip and the clutch/gears after I'd put them back on (I took the shaft out when replacing the phase wires). I had another look at this and decided that the gears were rubbing on the back of the magnet bowl that contains the stator. I decided this was the cause of the change in motor sound and needed fixing so levered it back up the shaft. This requires quite a bit of force on my motor, compared to the description by spinningmagnets on his MAC tear down thread on Endless-sphere. So having shifted it up a bit I decided to put it all back together and test it. I was really reluctant to start chipping out those hall sensors again!

Anyway I took the bike out for a test ride and got the same judder at half throttle. I took it up the hill where I got the clutch slipping feeling on the 2 previous road tests and that had gone. The motor also had the same higher pitched sound as it used to.

I suspect the difference in relative position of the hall sensors is the cause of the juddering (sync issue) at half throttle. But since this only lasts for a couple of seconds as accelerate through this speed I feel I can live with it. Please let me know if this is likely to damage the motor or controller.

Thanks again d8veh for all your guidance.

I'll just add one other thing for anyone reading through this. The wires passing through the shaft on the MAC motor are VERY tight. I tried pulling them through but it wasn't gonna happen so ended up cutting and replacing. The protective sheaf around the old wires didn't even budge once I'd pulled the wires out from the controller end so there is no way it would have pulled through round the 90 degree bend at the stator end. Spinningmagnets makes this point in his tear down thread http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=51310 - trying to pull them through just tears the insulation off. In my case levering with the pliers also scratched the stator windings, fortunately not deep enough to cause a short and I've painted some electrical varnish on the scratches to be sure. It at least gave me a wake up call to be careful on how I handle the stator!
 
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Fordulike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 26, 2010
3,802
1,538
Justin, I admire your perseverance in replacing those hall sensors and getting it running again.

When a hall needed replacing on my old MAC motor, I attempted to dig out the circuit board, but gave up and ended up buying a new motor from em3ev.

But it was not all in vain. Paul sent me the spare circuit board and halls and we all know where they are now :p

BTW, if you ever decide to replace the motor for whatever reason, then just buy the motor unit from em3ev and not the motor built into a wheel. Fitting the motor to the old wheel and casing is so easy.
The delivery works out much cheaper for just the motor, due to shipping being based on size/weight.
 
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Justin.Clements

Pedelecer
Apr 1, 2015
58
1
59
Thanks Dave,

I must admit if I were to convert the cost of a new motor into an hourly rate for the time I've spent on this it would be even less than I earn at work at the moment lol. So I'll bear that in mind if there's a next time. That said it's very satisfying to fix things.

I find it eerie that just about all the parts you sent me, the replacement side cover, brakes, pcb and hall sensors even the gold bullet connectors and shrink sleeves have now been used. That is apart from the spare gear wheels/clutch. I hope I'm not tempting fate there.
 

Justin.Clements

Pedelecer
Apr 1, 2015
58
1
59
I just want to add that Fordulike sent me a bundle of MAC parts FOC and wouldn't even take payment for the postage.

Guys like him and d8veh who gives up so much time to help people out on here restore one's faith!
 
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