Pro rider e tourer does not swith on
- Thread starter Belen
- Start date
I had to rconnect the brakes connections as they were loose.
After that I switched on and listened a sound like spark and now the lcd pannel is not working
After that I switched on and listened a sound like spark and now the lcd pannel is not working
This is a video withe sound coming from the wheel motor when on learning mode
And this was the sound coming from the battery with all the cables switched on
And this was the sound coming from the battery with all the cables switched on
There are two problems that I can see.
1. Two of your phase wires aren't properly insulated. if they touch each other or the aluminiun frame, your motor won't work. You need to cover them somehow. Edit: I can see you fixed them in the video.
2. The brake wire pins aren't properly in on one connector. If they touch the aluminium, your controller will switch off, and if they touch a phase wire, you'll blow the controller. You need to put them all the way in or insulate them.
The white wire is for a speed sensor. Your controller will work without one, but will probably go to sleep every 5 minutes. Get the motor working first, then worry about that.
Try the self-learning again after insulating those phase wires. Disconnect everything except the motor (connect all 8 wires), battery, LCD and throttle, then do the self-learning procedure. the motor should go by itself after some time. Do not do anything else until it goes. If it doesn't turn during the self-learning, it won't turn at all.
1. Two of your phase wires aren't properly insulated. if they touch each other or the aluminiun frame, your motor won't work. You need to cover them somehow. Edit: I can see you fixed them in the video.
2. The brake wire pins aren't properly in on one connector. If they touch the aluminium, your controller will switch off, and if they touch a phase wire, you'll blow the controller. You need to put them all the way in or insulate them.
The white wire is for a speed sensor. Your controller will work without one, but will probably go to sleep every 5 minutes. Get the motor working first, then worry about that.
Try the self-learning again after insulating those phase wires. Disconnect everything except the motor (connect all 8 wires), battery, LCD and throttle, then do the self-learning procedure. the motor should go by itself after some time. Do not do anything else until it goes. If it doesn't turn during the self-learning, it won't turn at all.
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If it still won't work, connect only the motor (all 8 wires), battery and LCD. switch on with the self-learning wires disconnected, then measure the voltage between the thin red and black wires in the white block connector that goes to the motor. You should see something like 4.3 to 5 volts. Next measure between the black and each of the other three (blue, green and yellow) in turn, while you turn the wheel backwards slowly. You should see the 4.3v switching on and off.
The sparkling came from the red battery connector.
I changed it
Switched on. Lcd pannel Works again!
Learning mode working now with the wheel working!
I changed one of the connector for the brake as it was not coming inside.
Switched on and the km in the lcd pannel was showing an error. A noise was coming from the battery.
Checked all wires and went to the lcd pannel and put more speed for the throttle and worked it all out!
Tomorrow I will be trying it out and will update the situation.
It seems working again.
Honestly thanks for your help !!!!!
I changed it
Switched on. Lcd pannel Works again!
Learning mode working now with the wheel working!
I changed one of the connector for the brake as it was not coming inside.
Switched on and the km in the lcd pannel was showing an error. A noise was coming from the battery.
Checked all wires and went to the lcd pannel and put more speed for the throttle and worked it all out!
Tomorrow I will be trying it out and will update the situation.
It seems working again.
Honestly thanks for your help !!!!!
The only thing that still I do not know if it is ok, is that when I switch on the lcd pannel and use the right gear, it shows an exclamation symbol. Is it ok?
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The bike has been working!
Thanks very much VFR,
I am going to see if it works properly these days.
The only thing that I have noticed, it is that it is not very powerful, less than before. I do not know if this is related to the white cable coming from the brushless motor, as I have not another coming from the bike, and you said that this cable is for speed sensor.
Again, thanks very much!!!
Belén
Thanks very much VFR,
I am going to see if it works properly these days.
The only thing that I have noticed, it is that it is not very powerful, less than before. I do not know if this is related to the white cable coming from the brushless motor, as I have not another coming from the bike, and you said that this cable is for speed sensor.
Again, thanks very much!!!
Belén
Hi there,
The bike is working but no really well.
It slows down suddenly when pedaling for no reason and in these moments I only can give speed using the throttle.
More scary has been when after using the wheel brake, and realising it, without pedaling , the bike speeded up abruptly. This happened when I stopped at the traffic lights and I was not able to stop it when did not use the brakes. I did not feel safe, and afterwards suddenly was accelerated automatically without pressing anything. I have been close to have an accident.
Do you know what could be happening?
Thanks
Belén
The bike is working but no really well.
It slows down suddenly when pedaling for no reason and in these moments I only can give speed using the throttle.
More scary has been when after using the wheel brake, and realising it, without pedaling , the bike speeded up abruptly. This happened when I stopped at the traffic lights and I was not able to stop it when did not use the brakes. I did not feel safe, and afterwards suddenly was accelerated automatically without pressing anything. I have been close to have an accident.
Do you know what could be happening?
Thanks
Belén
I had something similar with one of my first electric bikes 10 years ago. I can't remember all the details, but it goes something like this. There is a run-on after you stop pedalling when using the pedal sensor - maybe 2 or 3 seconds. The throttle and brakes over-ride this run-on, but it's like the controller remembers it should be there, so reactivates it after you let go of the throttle or brake as if you hadn't used them. It will run-on up to the same time (2 or 3 secs) after you last pedalled.
So, the first question is, do you get any run-on from the motor after you stop pedalling?
You can sort out the speed display by adding a speed sensor. If you have an old cycle computer, you can cut the sensor off it, or you can buy a cycle computer from Ebay for about £3 and cut off its sensor. The sensors have two wires. You connect one to the white wire that goes into the controller from the motor connector, and the other wire connects to any ground (black). Occasionally, some controllers work the other way round, so you connect the second wire to a red 5v instead of ground. You have to try it to see which way works. No harm will come if you connect the wrong way round. It just won't work like that.
So, the first question is, do you get any run-on from the motor after you stop pedalling?
You can sort out the speed display by adding a speed sensor. If you have an old cycle computer, you can cut the sensor off it, or you can buy a cycle computer from Ebay for about £3 and cut off its sensor. The sensors have two wires. You connect one to the white wire that goes into the controller from the motor connector, and the other wire connects to any ground (black). Occasionally, some controllers work the other way round, so you connect the second wire to a red 5v instead of ground. You have to try it to see which way works. No harm will come if you connect the wrong way round. It just won't work like that.
Another possibility for the bike spontaneously starting up is that you have a fault on your wiring somewhere, in particular, the throttle signal wire.
Iit can also happen when the throttle stop is broken. You only get zero throttle when the low magnet is positioned exactly next to the hall sensor inside the throttle. It should be held there by a plastic stop, but the stop sometimes breaks and lets it past. You should be able to test that. When you switch on, the throttle won't work until the controller sees zero throttle, so if it's a bit out of position, nothing unusual happens. When you open the throttle, you go past the zero position, at which point the throttle is activated and will work normally until you let go of it and the return spring pushes it past the sensor instead of sitting on the stop. It then continues to give power when it's in its resting position and you have to twist it a bit forward to get zero.
Iit can also happen when the throttle stop is broken. You only get zero throttle when the low magnet is positioned exactly next to the hall sensor inside the throttle. It should be held there by a plastic stop, but the stop sometimes breaks and lets it past. You should be able to test that. When you switch on, the throttle won't work until the controller sees zero throttle, so if it's a bit out of position, nothing unusual happens. When you open the throttle, you go past the zero position, at which point the throttle is activated and will work normally until you let go of it and the return spring pushes it past the sensor instead of sitting on the stop. It then continues to give power when it's in its resting position and you have to twist it a bit forward to get zero.
Thanks, so much!
Could you let me kow the exact name part for the speed sensor please?
I would lime to buy it in ebay.
Thanks!
I am amazed about al your knoledge.
Belén
Cheapest solution. Cut the sensor off this.
Bike Odometer Speed Waterproof Meter Bicycle Cycling LCD Computer Speedometer | eBay
CLK : CLOCK (12H/24H). SETTING SPEED SCALE(KM/H. Net weight:67g. AVS : AVERAGE SPEED. 1PC Bike computer console. It is also very durable considering even you have put over 500 miles on it. SDP : CURRENT SPEED. ).
www.ebay.co.uk
Proper Ebike sensor has longer and more robust cable. Cut the connector off. red to red 5v, black to black ground and signal wire to white wire.
2M Electric Bicycle Ebike Rim Speed Detection Sensor 3 Pin Cable SM-3A Connector | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2M Electric Bicycle Ebike Rim Speed Detection Sensor 3 Pin Cable SM-3A Connector at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk
Whichever one you use the magnet has to come close to the sensor, so you sometimes need to put some packing underneath it to hold it closer.
Yes, it has a run on after pedalling, but intermitent, so start and stop different times abruptly and strongly. And after using the rear wheel brake when I release it, starts speeding abruptly for a while. So if I am at the traffic lights and release the brake becomes a problem. Scary.
Hi VFR,Cheapest solution. Cut the sensor off this.
Bike Odometer Speed Waterproof Meter Bicycle Cycling LCD Computer Speedometer | eBay
CLK : CLOCK (12H/24H). SETTING SPEED SCALE(KM/H. Net weight:67g. AVS : AVERAGE SPEED. 1PC Bike computer console. It is also very durable considering even you have put over 500 miles on it. SDP : CURRENT SPEED. ).www.ebay.co.uk
Proper Ebike sensor has longer and more robust cable. Cut the connector off. red to red 5v, black to black ground and signal wire to white wire.
2M Electric Bicycle Ebike Rim Speed Detection Sensor 3 Pin Cable SM-3A Connector | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2M Electric Bicycle Ebike Rim Speed Detection Sensor 3 Pin Cable SM-3A Connector at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!www.ebay.co.uk
Whichever one you use the magnet has to come close to the sensor, so you sometimes need to put some packing underneath it to hold it closer.
So I am going to open the throttle tomorrow. I am not sure how to do it as I can only see how to take it out, but now what I need to open to look for the magnet.
I am buying the speedometer. Would be ok this one below? that one that you recommended would arrive in January...
15 Function Waterproof Lcd Bike Bicycle Odometer Speedometer Cycling Speed Meter 643845242732 | eBay
1 X Bicycle Code Table. Stopwatch and Accessories: Waterproof Stopwatch. Model Number: LCD Digital Display. CLK : Clock (12H/24H). 2 tier LCD display. Adjust tire circumference: (0mm-9999mm). Setting Speed Scale (km/h, m/h).
www.ebay.co.uk
Thanks!
That speedometer will work. All the sensors work the same. That's the only bit you need.
Full-width throttles are very hard to open. All throttles come apart the same way. You remove then from the handlebars, then look inside. There are normally three barbs that lock in when the throttle parts were pushed together. sometimes you can use brute force to pull them apart. Sometimes you can help it by inserting thin blades under the barbs. When the thing pops open, the spring might jump out, so don't do it in a messy garage. Reassembly is very straight forward. You just have to preload the spring by winding the throttle about 30 deg past its zero position then push it back together.
What's inside is very simple. The hall sensor is fixed in the non-moving part in a slot. The two magnets are at the end of the bit you twist. Often, there's a bit of grey iron linking them.
Full-width throttles are very hard to open. All throttles come apart the same way. You remove then from the handlebars, then look inside. There are normally three barbs that lock in when the throttle parts were pushed together. sometimes you can use brute force to pull them apart. Sometimes you can help it by inserting thin blades under the barbs. When the thing pops open, the spring might jump out, so don't do it in a messy garage. Reassembly is very straight forward. You just have to preload the spring by winding the throttle about 30 deg past its zero position then push it back together.
What's inside is very simple. The hall sensor is fixed in the non-moving part in a slot. The two magnets are at the end of the bit you twist. Often, there's a bit of grey iron linking them.
If you open the throttle whilst at it continuity check the three wires to see if a fault is in one wire esp the signal. I once had a rearing bike do to a throttle issue and it was the signal wire which had a break in it and occasionally caused intermittent contact.
I'm not sure if this has already been mentioned, but there are two common causes of runaway throttle that can often be identified by the runaway speed:
Half-speed runaway - Caused either when the lower throttle stop magnet or the hall sensor comes loose.
Full-speed runaway - Caused by a break in the throttle ground wire.
There are other possible causes, but these are the most common.
Half-speed runaway - Caused either when the lower throttle stop magnet or the hall sensor comes loose.
Full-speed runaway - Caused by a break in the throttle ground wire.
There are other possible causes, but these are the most common.