Pro Connect S Photos

[tillson]

the built on lights of my December 2008 purchased proconnect are very poor, infact it would be better if I just lit candles and threw them ahead ! Added some bycygnals in the end - a bit rattlely but do the job.

They aren’t brilliant are they.

I know 50 Cycles have found a way of fitting a BM LED rear light to the older Pro Connects so I might buy one off them. The front light is more of a problem so I believe. It all comes down to the way in which the 6 volts is delivered to the lights. Or more precisely, how the voltage is reduced from 24 to 6 volts.

This is something that I intend to look into before winter arrives. I would like to achieve a nice powerful front light. Something like the B+M Lumotec IQ Cyo on the front, which according to their data sheet can be run from a 7.2 volt battery supply, and reliable LED rear light. Both switched from the handlebars as they are at present.

 

[Cyclezee]

did you have to cut away any of the existing handle to fit it ? I have a pro connect and want to fix a wing mirror, but don't want to take screwdriver or knife to the nice rubber handle

Mat

Hi Mat,

The 'S' has plastic plugs in the handlebar ends which are easily removeable. On the Pro Connect the grips enclose the ends, so carefull trimming with a craft knife is required, it's quite easy and you can always fit a plug if you deceide to remove the mirror.

J hn

 

[Mattyduk]

Hi Mat,

The 'S' has plastic plugs in the handlebar ends which are easily removeable. On the Pro Connect the grips enclose the ends, so carefull trimming with a craft knife is required, it's quite easy and you can always fit a plug if you deceide to remove the mirror.

J hn

Ahh, I thought it wasn't as easy as just taking some plugs out as I was sure they were sealed in someway. Hmmm, worth doing though I think.

 

[tillson]

Ahh, I thought it wasn't as easy as just taking some plugs out as I was sure they were sealed in someway. Hmmm, worth doing though I think.

Sorry if I mislead you Mattyduk. I have one of the earlier Pro Connects (July 2008) and it is just a case of removing a bung in the handlebar end. They must have changed the grip design to a fully moulded without bungs on the later models.

 

[Mattyduk]

Sorry if I mislead you Mattyduk. I have one of the earlier Pro Connects (July 2008) and it is just a case of removing a bung in the handlebar end. They must have changed the grip design to a fully moulded without bungs on the later models.

no problem just my luck - oh well, a hacking I will go ! Anybody recommend an online retailer who takes paypal who sells the cateye 300 ?

 

[Dynamic Position]

Thanks for the replies John and Flecc. This digresses off the thread title a bit, but I am interested in upgrading the fixed lights on my Pro C to LED. The present bulb versions are OK but they can be a bit unreliable and I often ride in the dark, so I think an LED upgrade would be worthwhile.

I can’t find the 24V 40 Lux version of the B&M light you refer to. Was that a typo or do 24 V versions of these lights exist?

The only other way that I can think of for delivering a power supply for LED lights from the main battery is to use one of these DC to DC converters. (I saw this on another thread and it was suggested by Haku for powering a GPS from the bike battery).

Do you know how the new Pro Connects supply the correct voltage to the lights, or are they in fact, a 24 volt version that operate directly from battery voltage?

Thanks

Tom

Tillson,

B&M lights derive their lamp voltage by a dc-dc conversion process to comply with Germany's legal requirements. This could be done by a single integrated circuit which converts an input dc voltage range to a stablised output voltage (by a process known as pulse width modulation).

The simplest way for you to upgrade your light on your Pro Connect is just to replace the lamp for an equivalent LED type (size, voltage), you might be able to choose the luminosity (lower luminosity LED lamps have a longer life).

If you are riding in the dark because of failed lamps an LED upgrade will be of benefit, however replacing the lamp for an LED type will probably not give you any better lighting. The LED version of the B&M light has its bright output by design with its shaped mirror surfaces. The 24 Volt version B&M light in theory is more energy efficient.

 

[Dynamic Position]

I have just been just for a ride this evening and I have to say it is really difficult to say at what speed assistance stops when you get over 20 mph.
At that speed and above there is considerable wind noise, so the quiet motor is inaudible and pedalling on the flat at up 29 mph, I could not tell when the motor cuts in or out.

The battery has completed 3 complete discharges, so I am assuming it is now giving peak performance.

J hn

Aldby,

I guess e-bike performance must be heavily influenced by (loaded) weight? On my Pro Connect S, typical loaded weight 120Kg (cetificated max capacity), I can't get past 21.5mph on the flat, up hill I average 10 mph, down the same hill I get 24mph. On a really steep hill I can climb at 6.5 mph but have hit 36 mph going down the same hill. I had a look at some e-bike reviews, but nobody seems to include the typical loaded weight. I am quite happy with my Pro Connect S, the brakes are excellent in wet & dry conditions.

All the above figures is for the high assist mode: The high assist is helping up to 21.5mph. I think my typical cadence is around 65 - I have not worked out how to get this calculated by the supplied cycle computer yet!

In comparison to my Raleigh P4000, my typical commute time has been reduced by 34% (mixed mode), saving me 1.5 hours weekly. Without power I think the Pro Connect S bike would still be quicker, but I now lack the desire to do the hill without assistance .

 

[Dynamic Position]

Some photographs of my ProConnect S

This is the first time I have used this file attachment, hopefully the photograph quality has survived the severe pruning necessary.

On this non commute trip, I left the pannier bag at home and I noticed the difference.
I managed to obtain a speed of 26 mph on high assist (this could have been due to the clear 'go faster reflector' fitted to the front wheel - something Aldby might have spotted from the photographs?).

A lady driver of a car got a bit impatient with me on a local hill because she was unable to overtake me before reaching the top.

Tillson, I have not checked the form factor, but the front lamp fitted in the ProConnect S is rated 6 Volt 2.2 W LED.

 

[Cyclezee]

Pro Connect S Headlight

The following link shows a photo of the Lumotec IQ Cyo LED 24V DC fitted to my bike.

Pro Connect S Headlight - a set on Flickrhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/30274699@N08/3646360436/

J hn

 

[prState]

isoprophyl (rubbing) alcohol, canned air or air compressor, and a screwdriver works pretty good for getting off handle grips without damaging them so you can use them again.

 

[Rookie145]

Kalkhoff Por-connect S

Some photos of my bike

Kalkhoff Pro Connect Shttp://www.flickr.com/photos/30274699@N08/sets/72157618945900919/show/

J hn

Hello Aldby.

A lovely bike you have there. I notice that you have a Lumotec IQ CYO headlight. Did it come fitted on the bike? I believe they are a particularly bright light and I'm thinking of fitting one to my Agattu. Pity the Pro connect has'nt a hub dynamo but I'm sure that could be sorted if you needed it.

Cheers

Rookie145

 

[Cyclezee]

Hi Rookie,

I upgraded my Agattu with a LUMOTEC IQ Cyo R senso plus driven by the Dyno Hub. A big improvement

J hn

 

[Mattyduk]

just to say thanks for the replies regarding the Wing mirror. In the end, 50cycles could only supply me the winkuu, and as I already have a Bycygnal, I just wanted something small and light.

Found at wiggle.co.uk, the Cateye 300 for 4.99, and they take paypal. Arrived the next day, and with the help of a stanley knife, fitted in a couple of minutes. Very impressed. Makes a big difference.

 

[tillson]

Tillson,

B&M lights derive their lamp voltage by a dc-dc conversion process to comply with Germany's legal requirements. This could be done by a single integrated circuit which converts an input dc voltage range to a stablised output voltage (by a process known as pulse width modulation).

The simplest way for you to upgrade your light on your Pro Connect is just to replace the lamp for an equivalent LED type (size, voltage), you might be able to choose the luminosity (lower luminosity LED lamps have a longer life).

If you are riding in the dark because of failed lamps an LED upgrade will be of benefit, however replacing the lamp for an LED type will probably not give you any better lighting. The LED version of the B&M light has its bright output by design with its shaped mirror surfaces. The 24 Volt version B&M light in theory is more energy efficient.

Hi Dynamic Position

I’ve been away for a while so I’ve only just seen your post. Thanks for the information.

I am however, a little confused. I was under the impression that it wasn’t possible to just straight swap the halogen bulb version of the B&M light for an LED version. I thought that this had something to do with the fact that the lighting power is supplied as a series of high voltage (24v) spikes on the Pro Connect. I think some members have tried doing a straight swap and have had problems as a consequence. Are you saying that it is possible to straight swap the light for something like a B+M Lumotec IQ Cyo?

Are you also saying that there is a 24 volt version of the B+M Lumotec IQ Cyo? If so, would you mind posting me a link to somewhere that sells them? The only ones that I can find have a maximum input voltage of 7.2 volts. The same goes for LED rear lights.

Have you tried your lights in darkness? Does the B&M LED front light put out enough light to illuminate the way ahead for a useful distance? The halogen bulb version is only really a position light which lets you be seen. It isn’t good enough for lighting any distance in front of the bike.

Whilst on holiday in The Isle of Skye last week, there were dozens of Dutch cyclists there. No pedelecs, but some nice bikes, some of which had the B+M Lumotec IQ Cyo fitted. I must say it looks a bit weedy physically, but I didn’t see one working (not dark until after 11.00 pm). I can’t speak the lingo and neither could they to any degree so I couldn’t ask!

Thanks again for taking the trouble to respond.

Regards

Tom

 

[Dynamic Position]

Hi Dynamic Position

I’ve been away for a while so I’ve only just seen your post. Thanks for the information.

I am however, a little confused. I was under the impression that it wasn’t possible to just straight swap the halogen bulb version of the B&M light for an LED version. I thought that this had something to do with the fact that the lighting power is supplied as a series of high voltage (24v) spikes on the Pro Connect. I think some members have tried doing a straight swap and have had problems as a consequence. Are you saying that it is possible to straight swap the light for something like a B+M Lumotec IQ Cyo?


Are you also saying that there is a 24 volt version of the B+M Lumotec IQ Cyo? If so, would you mind posting me a link to somewhere that sells them? The only ones that I can find have a maximum input voltage of 7.2 volts. The same goes for LED rear lights.


Have you tried your lights in darkness? Does the B&M LED front light put out enough light to illuminate the way ahead for a useful distance? The halogen bulb version is only really a position light which lets you be seen. It isn’t good enough for lighting any distance in front of the bike.

Whilst on holiday in The Isle of Skye last week, there were dozens of Dutch cyclists there. No pedelecs, but some nice bikes, some of which had the B+M Lumotec IQ Cyo fitted. I must say it looks a bit weedy physically, but I didn’t see one working (not dark until after 11.00 pm). I can’t speak the lingo and neither could they to any degree so I couldn’t ask!

Thanks again for taking the trouble to respond.

Regards

Tom

ALL YOU NEED IS A 6V, 2.2W LED LAMP WITH THE SAME BASE TYPE AS THE ONE YOU HAVE REMOVED, PROBABLY AN 'MES' TYPE?

THERE IS A 24 VOLT VERSION, SUPPLIED AS STANDARD ON THE PROCONNECT S, BUT THE LED LAMP IS ONLY RATED 6V.

I HAVE ONLY TRIED THE LIGHTS IN A DARK GARAGE, THEY SEEMED TO WORK WELL COMPARED TO OTHER TYPES OF CYCLE LIGHTS I HAVE USED IN THE SAME SITUATION.

SAMPLE OF MES TYPE, BUT OTHER BASE TYPES ARE POSSIBLE. I THINK YOU WILL FIND THAT THE 6V VERSION OF THE SAME BASE TYPE WILL WORK, BUT IT WILL NOT BE AS EFFECTIVE BECAUSE THE REFLECTOR DESIGN HAS BEEN OPTIMISED FOR THE HALOGEN LAMP.

6Volt
| Optoelectronics and Displays | Optoelectronics | LED Lamps | Single Chip, Based and Bi-Pin LEDs


12Volt - Bi-Pin
JKL Components | Optoelectronics and Displays | Optoelectronics | LED Lamps | Automotive Type LED Lamps


24Volt
Marl | Optoelectronics and Displays | Optoelectronics | LED Lamps | MARL, Single Chip LED’s

 

[Dynamic Position]

Hi Dynamic Position

Have you tried your lights in darkness? Does the B&M LED front light put out enough light to illuminate the way ahead for a useful distance? The halogen bulb version is only really a position light which lets you be seen. It isn’t good enough for lighting any distance in front of the bike.

Regards

Tom

I can now report that the B&M LED front light puts out a great deal of light. It is the best light I have ever seen. It even beats my 10,000,000 candle power torch! On my commute home from work I noticed how powerful the beam was compared to at least 6 other cyclists. Normally in the dark my speed is reduced because I could not see sufficiently well to pick out some walkers and their dogs. Tonight I could see everything clearly while travelling at 20mph. The light shone at least 5 times further than I needed and the area lit up everything in the bikes path with only minimal light scatter to the surroundings.
The rear light was a big let down and I was forced into using my back-up light (a cheap one from ASDA) The problem was later traced to the wiring/connector. The light output is good when it works, but the wiring/connector design is very poor making the connection susceptible to water ingress & oxidation plus connection becoming loose through vibration etc. I might need to apply some solder and some other sealants!

 

[tillson]

Thanks for the report on the light. I would like to make an upgrade to this light on my earlier Pro Connect, but I need to spend time working out how to get a power supply to it.

I had the same problem with my rear light. I encapsulated the terminals in clear silicone sealant and it seems to have done the trick.