Pro Connect Lights - Stopped Working

[timelordUK]

Now that it is getting darker in the mornings and evenings I have started to use the lights on my pro connect. They are connected to the battery.

This morning I noticed that the rear light was not working. When I got to work i fiddle with teh wires to see if they were loose - but to no avail.
Then I took the light off the rear.

The front light was on at this stage. When I disconnected the wires at the back of the rear light, they touched.

There was a click in the battery/motor region of the bike and then the front lamp went off. Have a blown a fuse somewhere - I'm desperate to know how to fix this ..

thanks in advance

btw motor stillworks fine.

 

[tillson]

I'm sure that I have read somewhere that there is a fuse. I'm sure someone far more knowledgeable than me will be along soon to tell you where it is located.

 

[timelordUK]

After a closer inspection I found the blown 2amp mini blade fuse, in the wiring in the lighting circuit. Will be easy to replace. You just need to take the cover off the non drive side of the bike.
I also found why the rearlight wasn't working - a blown bulb.

All fixed for £1.12 !!

 

[JohnInStockie]

Potential Upgrade??

Does anyone know if its possible to upgrade these lights in any way? I would like mine to flash if possible, or even have more powerful light. Is this down to the DC current from the battery and the regulators built into the B&M ones as standard due to them being for dynamos?

John

 

[Neil]

Take Care

I swapped my Pro Connect Front light for a LED version (same wattage). The light worked for a fraction of a second and then all the lights went off.

The LED still works on my other bike but the old light back on the pro connect does not.

I cannot be a simple blow fuse because the Power led dims when you try and switch the lights on.

Get advice before you change the lights to LED’s.

 

[flecc]

Someone posted that they'd measured these lights as not having a low voltage supply but a series of very short higher voltage pulses from the battery instead, perhaps simulating the low voltage steady supply.

In those circumstances only the lights it's designed for are really suitable, anything else probably risking blowing the supply circuit. That's probably what's happened to yours Neil.
.

 

[Neil]

I didn’t buy the pro connect for the lights. I got it to do a 20 mile round trip to work.

As this is along unlit country roads I need more powerful lights, so the loss is not a great loss.

Fitted a 16 back cog, unfit, I can do 21 on the flat. Fly past other cyclist with a smile and rarely get passed. Ok it reduces the range to 20 miles on High Mode but living in Norwich it still easily goes up any hills.

 

[timelordUK]

Take Care

I swapped my Pro Connect Front light for a LED version (same wattage). The light worked for a fraction of a second and then all the lights went off.

The LED still works on my other bike but the old light back on the pro connect does not.

I cannot be a simple blow fuse because the Power led dims when you try and switch the lights on.

Get advice before you change the lights to LED’s.

You have blown the little 2 amp fuse. The same thing happened to me. I think the powerlight dimming is a feature, rather than the affect of the change of current. If you press the light switch on, even with theights completely out of the circuit they still dim - I think it assumes if it is dark enough for the lights to be on, then the powerlights being bright might be a distraction.

The 2amp fuse is a mini blade and easy to fit, they cost about 80p from an car shop. If your lights are not working it will need replacing. You just remove the cover (1 screw) from the non drive side of the crank and the wiring, with the fuse is stuffed into a frame cavity.

I am just wondering though.... my rear bulb blew quite quickly - I have only just started using my lights regularly - Now we are all using the lights more regularly - I hope we are not about to see problems!!

 

[mikepepler]

I added some decent flashing LED lights at the front and rear on our pro-connects. I figure the main lamp will light the road, and the LED make me visible. I reckon it's worth having extra lights for visibility, and handy to have a backup in case one goes while you're out.

Mike

 

[Neil]

Testing

Changed the fuse and the dull yellow lights work again.

Try my B&M 3 watt LED front lamp on with larger fuses.

3 amp instant blow, 4 amp worked until I put it all the covers back (you remove the chain guard to get to the screw in the previous post) then the bike made a buzzing sound and fuse blew again.

I will remove all the covers (get more fuses) and try again tomorrow.

But I think the electrics are not powerful enough.

 

[flecc]

Be very careful Neil or it could end in tears. The supply someone measured on a scope as 27 volts of intermittent chopped DC to simulate a low voltage supply, and this may well be supplied by the mainboard. If it's like the previous Panasonic unit, this is sealed in, encapsulated and not changeable, so a failure could prove very expensive.
.

 

[Neil]

2 amp fuse back in

Good advice, put the dull yellow light (ok it's not too bad) back on with the 2 amp fuse.

I have two uses for lights

1 in town (most of my cycling), can see where i am going just need a light to warn other road users i am here.

2 country lanes. Traveling 20MPH need lots of light.

The pro connect light is a bit of a cross between the two. Wastes too much power in the city and yet is not really powerful enough for the country. Still will use a extra quality LED back light. Dull and you just don't know when they blow so go on for ages with no back light.

 

[flecc]

The pro connect light is a bit of a cross between the two. Wastes too much power in the city and yet is not really powerful enough for the country.

I think this is true of many bike lights when the makers put in a bit of effort, the compromise not really suiting anything.

I'd rather see either no lights or a range of customer options, so buyers could suit their circumstances.
.