Pro Connect Gears

I am finding that my Pro Connect is occasionally making a nasty banging noise from the drive system. This is accompanied by a judder on the pedals. It usually happens in the range 3rd to 6th gear. I think it is the gear hub slipping. Also, I sometimes detect that the gear ratio has changed without me making an input on the selector. I have had a look at the gear selector cable and in 1st it is completely slack with a fair amount of free play. The cable moves the cam on the gear hub with each click of the selector all the way through to 8th. I know nothing about setting up these gears and there is no information in the manual. I suspect that the cable might be slightly out of adjustment and the gears aren’t quite full engaged. Can anyone point me in the direction of gear setup information for this hub please? Or offer any opinion / advice?

On a more positive note, I collected my Pro Connect last Friday. So far, I am very impressed. After initially charging the battery when I got it home, I went out for a ride to run it right down as part of the "conditioning" exercise. After doing 36 miles of riding around a hilly part of Derbyshire in Standard Mode, it finally ran out. I am very impressed by this, I was actually expecting it to do between 20 and 25 miles.

I quickly find that my legs are going like bee’s wings, so I think a smaller cog (16 tooth) on the hub will be required before too long. What is this likely to do to the range of the bike based on the above?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Tom

Try checking the chain tensioner for up and down movement. If it is sticky it allows the chain to slip on the rear sprocket - a little bit oil on the pivot will cure this. Lowering the gearing makes a surprising dent in the range in my experience (about 10 miles less on my commute).

The problem is almost certainly what Hal has described as this has been happening on a number of the new bikes, just the tightness of the new pivot on that tensioner. If that doesn't solve your problem, post back since it could also be a very slight gear cable adjustment needed.

 

If you go right down to a 16 tooth sprocket you'll probably find the range slumps to what you originally thought, 20 to 25 miles. The reasons are that the change increases the range of speeds over which full power is applied, and also extends the application of power from a limit of 15 mph up to around 20 mph.

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In gentle rolling countryside, I am getting about 30 miles on the 50% middle setting with a 19T sprocket. My best was 38 miles when still using the original 23T.

 

James

Thank you for the replies. I see that lowering to a 16 tooth sprocket has quite an impact on range. I think I will lower it, but not to 16. My trip to work and back is 18 miles, so I'll probably go for 18 or 20, if they make such a thing.

 

I have just checked the tensioner and it seems to be free. It certainly does not stick and moves smoothly when I apply presure to it.

 

Do I need to adjust the cable? If so, how do I do that?

 

Thanks again.

 

Tom

With sprockets you can have any number of teeth from 16 to 24 Tom, and I think 19 is a good compromise for the Pro Connect to retain good range.

 

It's normal for the new gear cable to stretch slightly initially, and it probably only needs the slightest tweak. Where the cable outer leaves the handlebar changer there's a screw out socket that the outer sits in. Just screw it out a touch and test at that. It's easily tweaked on the road to get it just right.

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Thanks Flecc, I'll give it a go tomorrow morning. I think the spurious changes of gear ratio point towards the cable needing a very slight tweak.

 

Kind Regards

 

Tom

ProConnect - Shimano Alfine RapidFire & Nexus 8 hub

 

Thank you for the replies. I see that lowering to a 16 tooth sprocket has quite an impact on range. I think I will lower it, but not to 16. My trip to work and back is 18 miles, so I'll probably go for 18 or 20, if they make such a thing.

 

I have just checked the tensioner and it seems to be free. It certainly does not stick and moves smoothly when I apply presure to it.

 

Do I need to adjust the cable? If so, how do I do that?

 

Thanks again.

 

Tom

 

For ProConnect users, here is a link to the Shimano Technical Service Instruction leaflet that covers the gear arrangement on the ProConnect.

 

Specifically, the Alfine SL-S500 RapidFire lever shifter which is connected into the Nexus 8 hub (via the Cassette Joint CJ-8S20).

 

James

Edited July 22, 200817 yr by JamesC

Thanks for the tips / info. I must admit that I had not ridden a hub gear bike for many years and my gear changing technique probably wasn't quite right. I haven't made any adjustments, just followed Scotts advice and things are much better, but I still do very occaisionally get the clunk and judder.

 

Whilst having a poke around the bike, checking various bolts for tightness etc, I have noticed that the front chain sprocket has a bit of float in it. If I take hold of it, I can move it a few mm with my fingers. Is this normal? I have never noticed it before on any other bike I have owned.

 

Regards

 

Tom

If you mean the chainwheel Tom, that's normal on this unit. It's mounted on splines and held in place by a circlip, unlike any normal bike component. This photo from one of my websites shows the similar chainwheel on the previous unit, with the action of removing the circlip shown, and you'll see the splines on which the chainwheel can rock slightly:

 

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/flecc/images/circlipsext.jpg

Thank you Flecc. I did mean the chain wheel, exactly as shown in your photograph.

Kind Regards

Tom

I'm sure it has been asked a million times before, but can anyone point me to a link providing information / help with changing the rear sprocket on the Pro Connect? I have tried the search tool, but no luck.

 

I am going to try a 19 tooth sprocket.

 

Thank you.

 

Tom

pro connect

 

just a word to put your mind at rest re the sprocket cog.If you fit a 19 t00th you will find it is just right for the job ( I know cos I asked Flecc and I fitted it to my Pro and it is superb)

Thanks John C. Is it an easy job to do yourself? Any special tools require? Do the gears need setting up again, or is it just a case of unclipping the cable as described elsewhere on the forum?

 

Any pointers / tips most welcome.

 

Kind Regards

 

Tom

Tom, have a look at the link below to a thread with advice from Aldby and myself on the sprocket change for the Nexus 7. The job is similar for the 8 speed:

Sprocket change

 

The next link below is to the technical document for the Nexus 8 for the cable adjustment afterwards:

 

Nexus 8 PDF

.

Metal chicken's head in you picture

 

Flecc

 

Why is there a metal chicken's head in the top left of your picture? Have you started "Heath Robinson" like constructions out of old ebike parts?

 

Conal

Sorry to be a pain Flecc, but do I need a special tool to remove the sprocket? I would like to get everything together before undertaking the job.

 

Thanks

Tom

ProConnect chain

 

Thanks John C. Is it an easy job to do yourself? Any special tools require? Do the gears need setting up again, or is it just a case of unclipping the cable as described elsewhere on the forum?

 

Any pointers / tips most welcome.

 

Kind Regards

 

Tom

 

 

Hi Tom

I will do some notes on fitting the 19 T sprocket to the ProConnect.

 

Only special tool required is a chain cutter for shortening the chain.

 

You must decide on the number of links to remove and how to rejoin the chain.

 

The chainguard is simple to remove with the one bolt near the back wheel - the front end just unclips.

 

I removed only 1 link and added some further tenison by pushing the wheel to the very back of the dropout slot, and the tension seems fine (100 miles with no problem)

 

Removing 2 links is probably more correct (sprocket teeth reduced from 23 to 19 = reduction of 4 teeth / chain wraps round half the sprocket so need to lose 2 links), with wheel half way back in dropout. This allows sensible adjustment as and when the chain needs tensioning later on.

 

Certainly 2 links must come out for an 18T sprocket.

 

If you want a spare, chain length is always a problem on an ebike - standard length that is sold is 114 links and the bike needs about 120 (I forgot to count the standard number).

 

The chain is 1/2" x 1/8" which is slightly wider than derailleur type chain and normally joined with a connecting link rather than a "bullet" pin.

 

The 50cycles guys use Sachs PC1 chain and cliptype joining link - this example at SJS is black - not sure where to get silver.

 

Suggest you get a couple of joiners in case tension isn't quite right. Note that the spring clip must travel with the rounded end leading through the chain circuit.

 

The spring loaded jockey wheel on the panasonic drive has more clearance on one side of the wheel than the other - put the joiner in from the side with narrow clearance, giving you clearance for the spring clip on the wide side.

 

More to follow.

 

James

Flecc

 

Why is there a metal chicken's head in the top left of your picture? Have you started "Heath Robinson" like constructions out of old ebike parts?

 

Conal

 

. Hi Conal

 

It's actually the black plastic base plate and connectors for the battery on these units which mounts remotely, but it's sat behind the top motor mounting, the stiff cables pushing it into that position.

.

Flecc

 

Why is there a metal chicken's head in the top left of your picture? Have you started "Heath Robinson" like constructions out of old ebike parts?

 

Conal

 

He will deny it of course, but its his voodoo symbol. You don't think these things really run on electricity, do you?

 

Nick

Thank you all for the knowledge that you have all imparted on a bicycle numpty like me. I have checked the gear cable set-up as described in the technical document and the two yellow lines were a full line width out of alignment. A quick adjustment and the crunchy gears (the original topic of this thread) have now gone away. Everything is as smooth as silk in all ratios!

 

It makes you wonder how we managed before we could pool our knowledge on forums like this.

 

Thanks very much.

 

Tom

It makes you wonder how we managed before we could pool our knowledge on forums like this.

 

Tom

 

I agree completely. I joined last September and received lots of good advice and encouragement to try various changes on my Torq. Enjoyed it all.

 

One thing to think about on the ProConnect is how to protect the gubbins on the handlebars when you turn the bike upside down to remove the rear wheel.

 

On the Torq, I added short stalks (Halfords BikeHut) as suggested by Flecc and I will do something similar on the ProConnect when I have time to slide evrything off the handlebars to make room.

 

Meantime, I noticed that the amazing little bell (!!) was actually the tallest thing, and my local bike shop kindly gave me another to fit on the other side of the handlebar. Done up tight. it just about survived the sprocket change, but it's really not strong enough.

 

A couple of bits of wood under the handgrips can stabilise it.

 

What do others do ?

 

James

ProConnect sprocket change

 

Tom, have a look at the link below to a thread with advice from Aldby and myself on the sprocket change for the Nexus 7. The job is similar for the 8 speed:

Sprocket change

 

The next link below is to the technical document for the Nexus 8 for the cable adjustment afterwards:

 

Nexus 8 PDF

.

 

Print off the thread with advice from Aldby and Flecc.

 

The Shimano rear wheel (WH-8R25) uses a Shimano Nexus 8 hub and a cassette arrangement (CJ-8S20), into which the gear change cable is clipped.

 

Before starting a sprocket change, it is useful to take a couple of photos of the arrangement to refer to later if memory is lost.

 

From Aldby's post (edited for ProConnect):

 

To remove the rear wheel on the ProConnect:

1. Select 1st gear, this releases tension on the gear cable.

2. You should now be able to pull the outer cable forwards by a few millimetres where it locates into the cassette holder.

3. The inner gear cable will now be free of tension and can be easily detached from the gear hub.

Column 3 in Nexus 8 PDF describes this well. It helps greatly to get a little extra slack using a thin 2mm Allen key or old spoke placed in the hole on the outside of the cassette pulley, as described at the foot of the column. Do NOT disturb the inner cable fixing bolt.

4. Slacken off the rear V brakes completely so that the wheel and tyre are freely removable.

 

Turn bike upside down.

 

5. Slacken off the hub nuts enough to be able to remove the wheel from the dropouts.

6. You should now be able to lift the the wheel out and remove the chain from the rear sprocket at the same time, leaving the chain still as a continuous loop on the bike.

 

Lay wheel flat on a bench (or across your knees). Place each item that you remove carefully in the same orientation ready to go back.

 

7. Remove the cassette that held the gear cable by rotating the centre fixing ring (yellow dot) 45deg anticlockwise. Lift off the cassette.

 

8. With flat bladed screwdriver, gently ease up the plastic ring (driver cap) that covers the "snap ring" which holds the sprocket in place.

 

9. With the screw driver, gently prize the snap ring clear of the sprocket, taking care as it will fly across the room very easily. Lift off the sprocket.

 

Assembly is the reverse and is escribed and shown in Nexus 8 - Sprocket and Cassette PDF.

 

Sprocket

SnapRing

Driver Cap (plastic ring)

Cassette (align red dots)

Cassette Fixing ring (align yellow dots and twist 45 deg clockwise)

 

Wheel is now ready, but shorten chain before refitting in frame as per earlier post.

Remove 1 chainlink (= 1 inner + 2 outers) and rejoin with 1 outer.

Check chain is correctly routed through the panasonic drive.

 

Refit wheel into frame, checking chain tension as the wheel is pressed into drop outs. Check wheel is aligned and central in the frame.

Make sure the wheel nuts are well tightened to prevent wheel shifting when pedalling hard.

 

Still with gear selector in 1st gear, rehook the gear cable as described here at the foot of column 5.

Gently test that pedals turn, and chain passes freely around circuit.

 

Set bike upright.

Select 4th gear to check that yellow marks are still aligned.

Reconnect brakes.

Double check wheel nuts.

Gently test that everything turns smoothly.

 

 

Comments from other members very welcome.

James

First class instructions James, definitely a link to keep for future inquirers.

 

Many thanks for the trouble you've taken.

.

...

 

It makes you wonder how we managed before we could pool our knowledge on forums like this.

 

Thanks very much.

 

Tom

 

You would have to consult and trust local "experts" - boy talk about the emperor's new clothes -.

 

I often say that an intense evening of googling and reading on forums like this, for any specific technical subject, will make you far more an expert than 95% of the so-called experts. Ask them a few key questions, and you will see that they don't have a clue.

 

Most often, I just thank politely and let them keep their perception, but take my business elsewhere.

Edited July 25, 200817 yr by Erik