POWABYKE Mark 1 Classic

TopCat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 6, 2010
7
0
Hello to you all, I hope you all had a good easter break.

I have just recieved a free electric bike last weekend from a nice chap who had got himself a new bike. The bike I had given to me is a Powabyke Mark 1 Classic....



The guy who gave me the bike told me that it needed a few things done to it.
1. Probably needs new batterys .
2. One of the pedals needs replacing.
3. A broken key is stuck in the battery compartment.
4. The battery charge port needs fixed/replaced.

Since friday when I got the bike...
I have fished out the broken key with a pin, which was quite easy.
Replaced both pedals with a couple I had laying around.
Peplaced the battery charge port with a power point of an old pc, there the same type of connection.

Im not sure but I dont think the bike has been serviced since it was bought? I was wondering if any members have this type of bike and could tell me more about it - ie Range/Speed of bike - Manuals - Wiring - Hub servicing.
Would it benifit dismantling the hub wheel and regreasing it?

Thanks in advance for any help/assistance.

Tom
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,152
30,567
Tom , it could be a good idea to email Frank Curran at Powabyke, since he may have an old copy manual or other information on your bike.

Frank is always interested in news of original models so he'd be pleased if you included a link to your thread here. You can get the link by right clicking the "permalink" button at the top right of your post. Here's Frank's link:

fcurran@powabyke.com
.
 

theskip1

Pedelecer
Mar 4, 2010
159
0
sm6
i to have an old mk1. and have been riding it for 12years . yours looks like its been looked after.to answer a few of your questions.
there is no manual as such it was just a few do's and donts, tyre pessures, keeping the batteries toped up that sort of thing.
range, using peddles about 25 to 28 mls.
without peddles about 20mls.
speed,15mph on the flat without peddling.
i have taken the motor apart twice in that time for maintenance and found it a very robust well made unit but it does start to get noisy over the years so needs to be greased up. but be carefull there are a few gears and bushes as the speed control is in the form of a mecanical centrifugal unit in the hub.also while its apart its a good idea to replace the brushes.
the drum brake pad should also be checked for wear.
apart from that just the usual oil and ujustments that you would do for any bike.
 
Last edited:

carpetbagger

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 20, 2007
744
18
blackburn
i to have an old mk1. and have been riding it for 12years . yours looks like its been looked after.to answer a few of your questions.
there is no manual as such it was just a few do's and donts, tyre pessures, keeping the batteries toped up that sort of thing.
range, using peddles about 25 to 28 mls.
without peddles about 20mls.
speed,15mph on the flat without peddling.
i have taken the motor apart twice in that time for maintenance and found it a very robust well made unit but it does start to get noisy over the years so needs to be greased up. but be carefull there are a few gears and bushes as the speed control is in the form of a mecanical centrifugal unit in the hub.also while its apart its a good idea to replace the brushes.
the drum brake pad should also be checked for wear.
apart from that just the usual oil and ujustments that you would do for any bike.
do you know what whould cause a Powabyke motor to continue running after it had reached the 15mph limit but not countinue to drive ?
 

timidtom

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 19, 2009
757
175
Cheshire
GambiaGOES.blogspot.com
I'd be really interested to know about other makes of e-bikes capable of matching this degree of durability and reliability. Seems to me that there are many later products which may be more beautiful but hardly as dependable as the good old Powabyke!
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,152
30,567
I'd be really interested to know about other makes of e-bikes capable of matching this degree of durability and reliability. Seems to me that there are many later products which may be more beautiful but hardly as dependable as the good old Powabyke!
Absolutely true, which is why I've so often praised them. And it's not just durability, they climb well too, which is one of the most important things an e-bike needs to do.

Only the bikes with Panasonic units have got close in durability terms, which means the Giant Lafree and earlier BikeTec Flyers, though the Heinzmann kit motors also last if maintained properly.
.
 
Last edited:

theskip1

Pedelecer
Mar 4, 2010
159
0
sm6
do you know what whould cause a Powabyke motor to continue running after it had reached the 15mph limit but not countinue to drive ?
yes mine also does this, its the centrifugal unit. with the throttle open the motor is still running but not fast enough to engage.
 
Last edited:

theskip1

Pedelecer
Mar 4, 2010
159
0
sm6
i to have an old mk1. and have been riding it for 12years . yours looks like its been looked after.to answer a few of your questions.
there is no manual as such it was just a few do's and donts, tyre pessures, keeping the batteries toped up that sort of thing.
range, using peddles about 25 to 28 mls.
without peddles about 20mls.
speed,15mph on the flat without peddling.
i have taken the motor apart twice in that time for maintenance and found it a very robust well made unit but it does start to get noisy over the years so needs to be greased up. but be carefull there are a few gears and bushes as the speed control is in the form of a mecanical centrifugal unit in the hub.also while its apart its a good idea to replace the brushes.
the drum brake pad should also be checked for wear.
apart from that just the usual oil and ujustments that you would do for any bike.
have just found this diagram which may be of some help in the future.(typo where it says speed sensor it should say wheel sensor as the wheel has to be moving before the motor will run)
 

Attachments

Last edited:

TopCat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 6, 2010
7
0
Thanks for the info Skip, I now know roughly what to expect regarding range/speed etc. I dare say this would be improved upon with a new set of lithium batteries, which iv'e heard last longer and are less than half the weight of the sla batteries installed on the bike.

I'd be really interested to know about other makes of e-bikes capable of matching this degree of durability and reliability. Seems to me that there are many later products which may be more beautiful but hardly as dependable as the good old Powabyke!
Regarding the rugged/workhorse like construction of the Powabyke Mark 1 Classic - They were built to last.
I think this can be said for any type of older mechanical machine ie, cooker/washing machine/hover etc.
For example my parents bought a new cooker way back in the mid 70's - A Kelvinator. I just took this of to the dump last year. I remember reading a while back that a haulage company had a truck/lorry that had done over a million miles, all that was ever done to it was the normal repairs and service. Once the boffins heard about it, they got hold of it and stripped it down to try and figure out how it had lasted so long, after they reasembled it it was never the same again?

Its when makers/builders try to refine an already good product with cheaper components and plastics etc, the buyers are the ones that suffer.

There's an old saying - If its not broken dont fix it.

Regards
Tom
 

timidtom

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 19, 2009
757
175
Cheshire
GambiaGOES.blogspot.com
[There's another old saying which is largely disregarded these days: Keep it simple, stupid! (K.I.S.S.) Or, add more simplicity!


Regarding the rugged/workhorse like construction of the Powabyke Mark 1 Classic - They were built to last.
I think this can be said for any type of older mechanical machine ie, cooker/washing machine/hover etc.
For example my parents bought a new cooker way back in the mid 70's - A Kelvinator. I just took this of to the dump last year. I remember reading a while back that a haulage company had a truck/lorry that had done over a million miles, all that was ever done to it was the normal repairs and service. Once the boffins heard about it, they got hold of it and stripped it down to try and figure out how it had lasted so long, after they reasembled it it was never the same again?

Its when makers/builders try to refine an already good product with cheaper components and plastics etc, the buyers are the ones that suffer.

There's an old saying - If its not broken dont fix it.

Regards
Tom[/QUOTE]
 

fcurran

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 23, 2007
394
0
Bath
www.powabyke.com
Hello to you all, I hope you all had a good easter break.

I have just recieved a free electric bike last weekend from a nice chap who had got himself a new bike. The bike I had given to me is a Powabyke Mark 1 Classic....



The guy who gave me the bike told me that it needed a few things done to it.
1. Probably needs new batterys .
2. One of the pedals needs replacing.
3. A broken key is stuck in the battery compartment.
4. The battery charge port needs fixed/replaced.

Since friday when I got the bike...
I have fished out the broken key with a pin, which was quite easy.
Replaced both pedals with a couple I had laying around.
Peplaced the battery charge port with a power point of an old pc, there the same type of connection.

Im not sure but I dont think the bike has been serviced since it was bought? I was wondering if any members have this type of bike and could tell me more about it - ie Range/Speed of bike - Manuals - Wiring - Hub servicing.
Would it benifit dismantling the hub wheel and regreasing it?

Thanks in advance for any help/assistance.

Tom
Hi Tom,

Sorry I was away last week with no internet access. Please drop me an email on fcurran@powabyke.com if you have anything outstanding.

Regards

FrankC
Powabyke
 

dilus

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 28, 2010
10
0
Hi Tom,
I have just purchased one of these myself, not quite an original it's a 2006 model but virtually identical, only difference is the motor is in the front wheel as opposed to your rear wheel. If that's all that has changed over the years and reading comments about it by the likes of flecc then Powabyke must have got it right from the beginning, hope you get yours on the road.
Nice to see that Mr Curran is active on the forum, hope I never need your assistance but it is re assuring to know you are approachable, regards dilus
 

TopCat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 6, 2010
7
0
Hi guy's,
Can anyone explain to me how to remove the rear wheel? I got a pumpture the other day and need to get the wheel off to repair it. I dont have any knowlage of hub motors and am afraid of braking wires while trying to remove the wheel.

Thanks

Regards
Tom
 

theskip1

Pedelecer
Mar 4, 2010
159
0
sm6
hello again you should not have any trouble with the wheel just remember to unplug the two conectors, one for the motor and one for the sensor, and of course the brake cable.the wheel complete with motor is a bit on the heavy side so dont drop it on your foot.then its just a case of loosening the main wheel nuts and removing the torque arm.
 
Last edited:

fatts

Pedelecer
Dec 29, 2009
244
0
west wales
I got a bit later 26" wheel 21 speeed front hub type and the motor on that has done over 10,000 miles I also changed over a 24" wheel one to a tricycle using a higgs 1950,s conversion built up 20" wheels for that and used it in the snow a lot. Solid and chunkly not everyones cup of tea but good on the rough, shame powabyke stopped making them but thats progress I guess less mileage on the new battery too :p
 
Last edited:

TopCat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 6, 2010
7
0
Well guy's I had a go at fixing the flat yesterday and let me tell you what a nightmare it was.
Im glad I was doing it at my house on a decent day, I'd hate to have to do it stuck miles from home in the pouring rain.

I looked at all the cables but never unplugged any as all the joints were covered in shrinkwrap and zip tied on - I suppose to help keep water out. I undid the wheel nuts and torque arm but the wheel wouldn't come off. Grrrrr I then had to undo about 8 or 9 other screws that hold on the kickstand and jiggle about with the drumbrake.

All told it probably took me well over an hour to get the wheel off fix the pumpture and replace it. I hope its a long long time beforeI need to do it again. It began to remind me of a Yamaha 125DT motorbike I had, where I had to remove half the bike to replace one cable.

Regards
Tom
 

eddieo

Banned
Jul 7, 2008
5,070
6
why not just turn the bike over and repair inner tube in situ?
 

theskip1

Pedelecer
Mar 4, 2010
159
0
sm6
yes forgot about the kickstand. to be honest i took mine of ages ago and just used the side stand. as for the srink wrap you will probably find it trapps more water that it keeps out. i removed mine and spray the conectors now and again with WD 40.still as they say first time always takes the longest , youll do it a lot quicker next time. by way of compensation i have only had two punctures in 12years cycling!
 
Last edited:

ace_bridger

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 28, 2011
20
0
I took a punt and bought a cheap wheel and controller and it turns out to be a Mk1 kit so I'm very pleased to hear such great things about them!!

I should have it fitted to my Rock Hopper in a week or so and can't wait to get pedelec-ing!!

Thanks for writing on the forum as it has really helped me with identifying what I have bought and establishing whether it's any good or not!!

Well done.
 

ace_bridger

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 28, 2011
20
0
I've just connected up my Mk1 wheel and controller to the battery and as soon as I switch it on the motor runs (even without any throttle on) but there is no drive to the wheel...anybody got any ideas??

I'm a bit stuck. I don't want to disassemble the hub motor unless I'm sure i need to.

Any help would be gratefully received.