Planetary gear removal

[Blackwing774]

Hi my hub just stopped working so I opened it up and the planetary gears are shredded everything else seems fine but I can't remove the gear plate there was a thin nut sat on top of a silver metal piece on top of the plate I got the nut off but can't figure out how to remove the rest. Near as I can tell it's an mxus 36v 250w front motor from the eplus commute sold by arg9s and bikesdirect will post pics later

 

[vfr400]

It just slides off. You might need a gear-puller to help it.

 

[Mars]

I have one these bikes (non-suspension fork/rack mounted battery version and not the one with suspension fork/seatpost battery) so may encounter the same issue down the road (pun intended).

The only marking on my motor is 'DC36V700C250W19F0620 H' is this the same as yours?

One of the comments on the argos website suggested the motor may be a different model on the earlier suspension fork/seapost battery version.

 

[Blackwing774]

Update pic

 

[Blackwing774]

I have one these bikes (non-suspension fork/rack mounted battery version and not the one with suspension fork/seatpost battery) so may encounter the same issue down the road (pun intended).

The only marking on my motor is 'DC36V700C250W19F0620 H' is this the same as yours?

One of the comments on the argos website suggested the motor may be a different model on the earlier suspension fork/seapost battery version.

Unfortunately mine doesn't have this indication

 

[Scorpio]

Hi, my motor is different but similar enough to be helpful.
You need to remove the bearing from the shaft first (tyre leavers , screwdrivers as elevers, bear puller?) on mine the bearing came off with the sidecover.
Then I could remove the large rusty plate holding the 3 nylon cogs using just hand pressure.

Photos might help

Kemp Starley Dutch Town Bike - out of hibernation.

Hi folks, and welcome to a project I've just picked up to keep me occupied. It might get brought back to life as electric or non-electric, or could become a parts donor - a lot will depend what I find when I get started. First impressions : It's a Dutch town bike by Kemp Starley, high build...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

 

[Blackwing774]

Hi, my motor is different but similar enough to be helpful.
You need to remove the bearing from the shaft first (tyre leavers , screwdrivers as elevers, bear puller?) on mine the bearing came off with the sidecover.
Then I could remove the large rusty plate holding the 3 nylon cogs using just hand pressure.

Photos might help

Kemp Starley Dutch Town Bike - out of hibernation.

Hi folks, and welcome to a project I've just picked up to keep me occupied. It might get brought back to life as electric or non-electric, or could become a parts donor - a lot will depend what I find when I get started. First impressions : It's a Dutch town bike by Kemp Starley, high build...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

Pics

 

[Nealh]

The Mxus looks like it has had severe water ingestion with all that rust matter.

 

[Blackwing774]

The Mxus looks like it has had severe water ingestion with all that rust matter.

Yeah that's what I think but the damn things are supposed to be sealed and I only run it on the road and my god is the customer service shoddy

 

[Nealh]

How was the Mxus orientation fitted, which way did the motor cable exit the axle ?

 

[Blackwing774]

Right hand side

 

[wheeliepete]

The motor axle may have been fitted upside down in the forks allowing water to run down the cable and into the motor. If/when you refit make sure the slot in the axle where the cable exits faces downwards.

 

[vfr400]

The motor axle may have been fitted upside down in the forks allowing water to run down the cable and into the motor. If/when you refit make sure the slot in the axle where the cable exits faces downwards.

Knock the bearing off using a metal wedge of some sort. When I had one like that, I used my angle grinder to grind a bit of scrap steel into a wedge with a gap for the axle so that it lifted both sides at the same time. Once the bearing is out of the way, there should be a circlip holding the clutch on. remove that, then use a two or three-legged puller on the clutch if it doesn't slide off easily.

 

[WheezyRider]

I always try to avoid hitting mechanical things if I can. If you can get a small 3 leg puller under the bearing, that's the best way, but there may not be enough space. An alternative is the kind of puller you can get for taking windscreen wiper arms off of cars. You might find one you can get under the bearing. If not the fork wedge idea of vfr's should do it, but be careful.

Probably a good idea to replace the bearing when you get it all back together. But use a bolt and some washers to ease it back into the hub housing, don't use a hammer.

 

[WheezyRider]

The motor axle may have been fitted upside down in the forks allowing water to run down the cable and into the motor. If/when you refit make sure the slot in the axle where the cable exits faces downwards.

Would you advocate putting silicone sealant into the cable exit point? Is there a reason why that would be a bad idea?

 

[wheeliepete]

Would you advocate putting silicone sealant into the cable exit point? Is there a reason why that would be a bad idea?

No, deff. not. The cable exit point allows any water/moisture that does make it's way in to escape. If it was meant to be sealed, it would be done by the factory.

 

[WheezyRider]

No, deff. not. The cable exit point allows any water/moisture that does make it's way in to escape. If it was meant to be sealed, it would be done by the factory.

I recently took apart one of my hubs where I'd used about 40 ml of ATF inside it. The clutch and cogs looked absolutely pristine. Maybe that's the best method to stop things from rusting up.

 

[Mars]

This is how mine came installed. Should the cable groove be at the bottom for water egress?

 

[WheezyRider]

Knock the bearing off using a metal wedge of some sort. When I had one like that, I used my angle grinder to grind a bit of scrap steel into a wedge with a gap for the axle so that it lifted both sides at the same time. Once the bearing is out of the way, there should be a circlip holding the clutch on. remove that, then use a two or three-legged puller on the clutch if it doesn't slide off easily.

Vfr, is there definitely a circlip holding the clutch on the shaft on MXUS motors? The Bafangs I've taken apart don't have one, but the Voilamarts do. If there isn't one, you could just put the 3 leg puller on the clutch and pull both off at the same time.

 

[wheeliepete]

I recently took apart one of my hubs where I'd used about 40 ml of ATF inside it.

I've not had reason to try this, but as it coats the motor internals, must provide some degree of water repellence.