Phil Here Hi..

[thelarkbox]

Hi All I am new to all things ebike, I fitted a Yose Power 250w rear wheel kit over the weekend while taking the opportunity to upgrade from 6 to 8 speed at the same time.

Having been screamed past by overpowerd ebikes for the last 5 years or so only to se the rider walking the next week made me very aware i want a street legal ebike

The Worst aspect was seating the rivnuts to hold the battery rack. No bottle mounts on my ol bone shaker..
The ebike kit install other than the rivnut seating was a breeze, though i may still change my handlebar brake gearshift set up again?
The one issue with the installation was the pas sensor is an extremely tight fit around the crank axle, so much so it expands its inner race so much it no longer runs freely and offers some minor resistance to pedaling(200g?).. It still works tho and a $5 replacement is on its way from ebay/china which i can fettle to a better fit. i took the socket and hammer approach to this one and its ok so far
I struggled with the new 8 speed derailleur set up too all me and once i realised my error (wrong tuning screw) the next day! all went well..










a little bend to the chain guard mount to accommodate the wider range of chain movement with the 8 speed cassette and i was on the road.

Well I have ridden almost everything powered by a combustion engine, have a full bike license and WOW The only vehicle i have felt less in control of was a 1 man hovercraft my mates dad built in the 70's.

The controller is totally locked up. the only parameter i can change is the display head metric mph or kmh.
and how it is configured right now is mad?
5 x power assist modes,
In mode 1 and 2 by the time the motor kicks in i have generally surpassed the speed at which these are regulated at. i estimate 4-5 revolutions of the crank or it feels like that many..

In modes 3, 4, and 5 the motors require fewer crank revolutions to register but are then On at FULL PELT to speeds of circa 10mph, 12mph and 15mph, not what you want when negotiating a busy crossing shared with pedestrians .

My late Sunday night browsing led me to find the very friendly folk over on Pedelecforum.de, a very active community.. and how i found this lil corner of the web too (I wonder if there is a pedelec uk forum and there is hehe). The Team @ Pedelec.de took me into triage (Thanks google translate) and we worked out the controller must be configured in speed steps where it seems i would respond more to a configuration of power steps (all above my head tbh.. but i can learn..) And once the issue was identified a solution was proffered that would both resolve the problem and keep my bike uk street legal too.

Yes it involves throwing more cash in the direction of china for a new controller and headset hrmph..
just my bad luck that my controller isnt one thats been cracked and have a github pages of alternative f/w branches like the Luishi brand and others.

Performance wise ignoring the dodgy config its great, virtually silent, abd carries me and a full shop uphill at 15mph no sweat.. its getting it to ride comfortably and under control at speeds betweem 8-12mph tho without having to pedal a bit stop pedal a bit stop... thats a problem
10, 12, and 15mph on some of the residential roads round here is lethal, pot holes and other aspects of an uneven road result in me bouncing all over and any shopping in my boxes getting launched at random tangents.


Imagine a nice smooth up cycle track that i can cycle up in top gear without shopping, with shopping i drop down to 3rd or 2nd depending on the load i guess, 1st trip back from the shops i rolled up @ 15mph JOY!! turned off onto the local roads and wehey we all went bouncy bouncy bounce I stayed on the bike my shopping didnt it was scattered all over.. Normally im at a snails pace and panting over the bars at this point when leg powered alone.. so have never turned into this rd at full speed in top gear which is about 16mph according to my ebike speedo? so that one is totally on me not the bikes fault

Anyway people thats me and my ebike for you HELLO

 

[saneagle]

Show some photos of what you've done with your pedal sensor. It doesn't sound at alll right. Any rubbing will prevent it from working properly and bring about its early demise. There are always solutions to getting it working correctly.

 

[thelarkbox]

Show some photos of what you've done with your pedal sensor. It doesn't sound at alll right. Any rubbing will prevent it from working properly and bring about its early demise. There are always solutions to getting it working correctly.

It certainly didnt feel right at the time too not much to show in photos without pulling off the pedal arm and even then i dont know what you would see ?

It looks exactly the same as a sensor off the crank but with any gap between the inner and outer aspects squeezed shut tight.

it offers nominal resistance to turning the crank in both directions but is just thermoplastic rubbing on thermoplastic, and the fit on the crank is certainly secure.

This sensor type:



This is the sensor type and i simply rammed if home with a mallet and socket placed over the crank stub
as a result the inner race is now expanded a tad and rubs on the outer surface , it turns and spins and i assume it will die soon or simply wear down and run more smoothly either way a spare is on its way and if it too is too tight around my crank i plan to be a tad more patient and fettle its id out a bit with a dremil and sand drum.

Thanks for the interest, until sensor #2 arrives im working on the assumption i drew the short straw in he specs and tolerances draw.

 

[saneagle]

The inner relies on friction to turn it. If there's any friction between the parts, it'll slip. the slipping wears the part that needs friction to turn, so it'll slip more and more until it doesn't work. Also, there are some problems with those being the wrong size for the spindle such that the inner expands and rubs on the outer. I never heard of oone taking more than one crank revolution to work unless you have a really crappy controller. I haven't heard anybody else complain about that with a Yose kit.

Those pedal sensors often give problems sooner or later, so probably worth replacing with a magnet disc type.

 

[thelarkbox]

The inner relies on friction to turn it. If there's any friction between the parts, it'll slip. the slipping wears the part that needs friction to turn, so it'll slip more and more until it doesn't work. Also, there are some problems with those being the wrong size for the spindle such that the inner expands and rubs on the outer. I never heard of oone taking more than one crank revolution to work unless you have a really crappy controller. I haven't heard anybody else complain about that with a Yose kit.

Those pedal sensors often give problems sooner or later, so probably worth replacing with a magnet disc type.

Yes indeed just been browsing another post with similar issues where the 16mm and 17mm crank diameter issue is raised DOH! so i must have a 17mm crank.. I think i shall look for one of the clamp round style magnet disks and sensors you tie to the frame too..

OH boy the controller is total crap locked tight so only the unit or distance is configurable. I need to edit the pas mode settings changing from lethal speed steps to controlled power steps
FFS who owns it me or Yose if me i should be able to configure it . hence throwing further cash at a replacement that gives me control. I wont enable the throttle beyond 6kmh and i will maintain the speed limit @15mph as i dont want plod to take my bike away.

But i will mod the bloody pas settings so i can ride safely.

sorry started to rant a bit there.. but its a frustrating subject..