Pendleton Somerby - how to fix broken cables at rear hub

[AndiB]

Hi,
Does anyone here know how to remove the cassette on a Pendleton somerby and/or how to fix broken cabling near the axel?

My partner's Somerby ebike stopped assisting today. Battery is charged, controller turns on, but no support when pedaling she said.

There is a "hall sensor" issue indicated (high led flashes), and a subsequent check of cabling revealed that the axel thread had worn through the cable (see photo).

I'm wondering if I can replace the cable? Or splice a new one on at the broken section?
But to do so I need to get to the bit under the cassette. And that is a puzzle: how does it come off? None of my tools fit... Plus it says freewheel on it, yet looks like a cassette with spacers etc.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[Nealh]

Needs a chain whip tool to remove ACW doing so, firmly holding the wheel. Freewheel is a screw on gear.
If cable is damaged tight to the hollow axle then repair needs to be not a repair but complete motor cable renewel so means opening the hub to try and get the cable thru, not an easy job but can be done.

 

[AndiB]

Thanks Nealh!
Will give that a go tomorrow. I was convinced it's a cassette with lock ring... Good to be able to ask and learn!

The cable damage is right by the hollow axel, so will need to replace it.
Do you by chance know if a) replacement cables exist and b) who sells them?

Thanks!

 

[saneagle]

Hi,
Does anyone here know how to remove the cassette on a Pendleton somerby and/or how to fix broken cabling near the axel?

My partner's Somerby ebike stopped assisting today. Battery is charged, controller turns on, but no support when pedaling she said.

There is a "hall sensor" issue indicated (high led flashes), and a subsequent check of cabling revealed that the axel thread had worn through the cable (see photo).

I'm wondering if I can replace the cable? Or splice a new one on at the broken section?
But to do so I need to get to the bit under the cassette. And that is a puzzle: how does it come off? None of my tools fit... Plus it says freewheel on it, yet looks like a cassette with spacers etc.

Any help is appreciated!

It's a freewheel, so you need a freewheel tool with a large hole for the axle. This is the one you want. You don't need a chain-whip for a freewheel.

Bicycle Bike Cassette Flywheel Freewheel Lockring Removal Repair-Tool Black | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bicycle Bike Cassette Flywheel Freewheel Lockring Removal Repair-Tool Black at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[thelarkbox]

there is a youtube by Grinn ebikes detailing the cable replacement, it can be done..

 

[lenny]

there is a youtube by Grinn ebikes detailing the cable replacement, it can be done..

 

[Ghost1951]

That looks like a pretty brutal struggle to me.

Note to self: [Check partner's Somersby cable this morning before we go out for a ride.]

 

[saneagle]

Thanks everyone Grin video is not very realistic regarding the cable replacement. Their motors are different to a Pendleton one. The only problem with the Penleton is to get the wires out of the axle on the inside of the motor. I would try this:

Cut the replacement cable in such a way that the 3 phase wires are projecting a couple of centimeters. All the other wires must be cut flush with the outer insulation very neatly;
Cut the solder joints on the inside and pull the wire through the axle so that you have enough length of good phase wire to solder to;
Cut and cleanup the old motor cable on the outside and solder the 3 phase wires to those in the replacement cable;
Put some suitable lubricant on the cable;
Pull the cable through on the inside. Hopefully it'll turn the right angle corner on the inside.

 

[AndiB]

@Ghost1951 I think it was caused by poor rear hub installation: there's a notch in the axel thread for the cable to bend nicely. But the notch was pointing straight up and so the cable was bent over the axel edge which then wore through the insulation and cut some of the wires

@saneagle
First thing is to get the freewheel off. After that I can hopefully post some more pictures and a progress report...

 

[Ghost1951]

Yeah - I was wondering why he didn't lubricate the cable a bit. I'd have thought it would have made the process easier, but of course, what do I know - I've never done this. Lube certainly works on tight tyres. I've replaced a 125cc motor bike tyre with smallish levers and used lube on that which made it a lot easier to slide over the rim.

 

[saneagle]

@Ghost1951 I think it was caused by poor rear hub installation: there's a notch in the axel thread for the cable to bend nicely. But the notch was pointing straight up and so the cable was bent over the axel edge which then wore through the insulation and cut some of the wires

@saneagle
First thing is to get the freewheel off. After that I can hopefully post some more pictures and a progress report...

You didn't bid for that freewheel tool that I linked. You could have had it for £3.75. Where are you going to get one from now?

 

[Peter.Bridge]

You didn't bid for that freewheel tool that I linked. You could have had it for £3.75. Where are you going to get one from now?

Extortionate ! When I changed over to that freewheel you suggested with the 11t smallest gear I bought https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186070231355 - Freewheel came off very easily

 

[saneagle]

Extortionate ! When I changed over to that freewheel you suggested with the 11t smallest gear I bought https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186070231355 - Freewheel came off very easily

That's a cassette tool with a picture of it inserted into a cassette!

There is a freewheel equivalent, but it's short reach. For DNP freewheels, you need the long-reach one that I suggested. It's made by DNP.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

That's a cassette tool with a picture of it inserted into a cassette

 

[Ghost1951]

I've sometimes regretted buying cheap tools on ebay. Just before I got my current converted ebike from Billy Milburn near Durham, I was considering converting an old mountain bike I had. I bought one of those crank puller tools, but it was made of Chinesium and the bloody thing tore the threads off rather than pull the crank out. Waste of money completely. Had a similar experience when I bought a universal wiper arm puller to remove a wiper arm when the link under the bonnet came apart and I needed to replace it. That broke too before the arm came off. I think I am done wth buying bargain tools that are not fit for purpose, or only stand one use.

 

[saneagle]

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As I said, that type of tool works on some freewheels, but not DNP ones because DNP have the spline is on the back side, not the front like the one in your photo, and the tool doesn'treach it sufficiently. You always want the option of fitting a DNP freewheel for more relaxed top gear pedalling.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

As I said, that type of tool works on some freewheels, but not DNP ones because DNP have the spline is on the back side, not the front like the one in your photo, and the tool doesn'treach it sufficiently. You always want the option of fitting a DNP freewheel for more relaxed top gear pedalling.

The replacement one was a DNP one I think (with 11t top gear) - I put it on using that tool !

 

[saneagle]

The replacement one was a DNP one I think (with 11t top gear) - I put it on using that tool !

You don't need a tool to put a freewheel on. It's getting it off that's the problem. If it's tight, the splines on your tool will strip because they don't go in far enough. The DNP tool is long for a reason.

 

[AndiB]

You didn't bid for that freewheel tool that I linked. You could have had it for £3.75. Where are you going to get one from now?

Sorry, didn't realize you were selling that. Managed to source one from a colleague, but will come back if that's not sufficient.

 

[AndiB]

Thanks everyone Grin video is not very realistic regarding the cable replacement. Their motors are different to a Pendleton one. The only problem with the Penleton is to get the wires out of the axle on the inside of the motor. I would try this:

Cut the replacement cable in such a way that the 3 phase wires are projecting a couple of centimeters. All the other wires must be cut flush with the outer insulation very neatly;
Cut the solder joints on the inside and pull the wire through the axle so that you have enough length of good phase wire to solder to;
Cut and cleanup the old motor cable on the outside and solder the 3 phase wires to those in the replacement cable;
Put some suitable lubricant on the cable;
Pull the cable through on the inside. Hopefully it'll turn the right angle corner on the inside.

Is there a good supplier of cables you would recommend?