Pedal assist

[Meroe]

Hi, I'm planning to buy a front wheel conversion kit. Most of my riding is on level cycle ways and tow paths, occasional roads and limited hills. I'm reasonably fit, so mostly pedal my own steam. Is (sensor type) pedal assist more trouble than its worth ?

 

[anotherkiwi]

I'm sorry I don't understand your question.

 

[Nealh]

Hi, I'm planning to buy a front wheel conversion kit. Most of my riding is on level cycle ways and tow paths, occasional roads and limited hills. I'm reasonably fit, so mostly pedal my own steam. Is (sensor type) pedal assist more trouble than its worth ?

The electric motor is activated either by throttle on bikes before 01/01/16 or pas (pedal rotation), the pas will have a sensor somewhere to activate the system, where externally or internally incorporated.

 

[motomech]

Hi, I'm planning to buy a front wheel conversion kit. Most of my riding is on level cycle ways and tow paths, occasional roads and limited hills. I'm reasonably fit, so mostly pedal my own steam. Is (sensor type) pedal assist more trouble than its worth ?

A common mis-conception for beginners is, using the powered system is going to be optional. It doesn't quite work out that way.
Even the lightest and easiest free wheeling systems are noticeable when pedaling w/ the power off.
A better approach for rider assist, is to "set", or limit, the speed desired and add a couple of miles per hour with the legs. This extends the range by virtue of the increased speed and is in general, more fun.
The speed is "set" w/ either the cruise control or the PAS.
I prefer PAS, and on a low-power system, the simple 3-speed PAS works well. As the motor power goes up, the 3-speed limiting starts to feel kind of crude. With only 3 speed choices over a wider speed range, the gaps between become greater and since these systems don't limit current(torque), the bike can start to lunge ahead as the system engauges.
That's when the newer 5-range "torque imitation" systems, and even better yet, the high-end "sensing type" come into their own.
I would say, for low-powered system, say under 600 Watts, even the simple 3-speed system works fine. The 5 range current limiting system is a better choice above that.
The high-end systems are out of my budget range, so I really can't say if they are worth the extra cost or not.

 

[Swytch Bike]

If you have a kit with an LCD display (such as the Kunteng LCD03) then there are options for adjusting the way the PAS works. This is preferable to kits with a basic LED screen where the PAS control is fixed and hard to change

A common mis-conception for beginners is, using the powered system is going to be optional. It doesn't quite work out that way......

 

[Meroe]

Thanks
I decided to buy a cyclotricity kit with just throttle, as mainly I still want to cycle under my own steam, with some assistance against the dreaded E wind we get.
I've fitted it and been on a few rides, it's great.