PAS WIRING HELP PLEASE

[djah]

I have started the process of wiring my pas directly in to my integrated controller solely for the purpose of making it look neater. I purchased the pas separately and has different coloured wires to the wired cable which I will be removing.
The controller has black(marked G), red(marked TH) and white(marked Z). Any ideas which ones I connect blue, red and yellow from the pas?

 

[Nealh]

Your PAS should have come with or the product page should have a wire/pin out sequence, a link to were you got it maybe.
If not then Yellow or Black is used as Gnd, so Yellow to G /Black.
Red to TH Red/+5v you can check the TH out put with a meter for 4.5 - 5v.
Blue is Signal/White Z.

Two options you can solder straight to the board or cut the existing wires and join on to them.

 

[djah]

Your PAS should have come with or the product page should have a wire/pin out sequence, a link to were you got it maybe.
If not then Yellow or Black is used as Gnd, so Yellow to G /Black.
Red to TH Red/+5v you can check the TH out put with a meter for 4.5 - 5v.
Blue is Signal/White Z.

Two options you can solder straight to the board or cut the existing wires and join on to them.

Thanks nealh. Very helpful as always. I will leave a little length on the wires then solder and heat shrink.

 

[Nealh]

Just be careful you don't spatter or drip solder on to the pcb, use a bit of folded tissue under the wires to catch any excess solder.

 

[djah]

Just be careful you don't spatter or drip solder on to the pcb, use a bit of folded tissue under the wires to catch any excess solder.

Just finished. All seems good.

 

[Nealh]

Does all seem good mean you have tried PAS and it is working ok ?

 

[djah]

No. Haven’t tested it yet. Slowly making my way through it. I bought a mavic rim to lace my motor in to and it is a pain to get the tyre on to it. I finally got it on but have given up for the night. Too tired. Tomorrow’s another day.

 

[djah]

Does all seem good mean you have tried PAS and it is working ok ?

Looking for your help again please if you wouldn’t mind.
I have a Q128C(lower of the 2 speeds available) motor laced in to a 27.5 inch wheel which is close to a 28 inch with the size of the tyres. I am pretty much all set up now and have taken it for a road test. The pas works ok but I’m not completely happy. It seems to cut out fairly frequently. I don’t get a speed registering when freewheeling and it’s slow to register when peddling. It’s a 12 magnet pas which may not be compatible with the kt lcd8 display. I have ordered a 8 magnet pas to see if this improves things. The zero speed on the display concerns me more. Here are my settings if you wouldn’t mind taking a look.

 

[Nealh]

P1 try 224 but this figure generally relates to real time ODO reading accuracy.
Ideally to set P1 properly set speed to 25km/h and go for a ride with GPS to compare readings.
If LCD8 under reads compaerd to GPS then raise P1 value by 2 digits and keep doing so until they nearly match then change by 1 digit to fine tune.
If LCD8 over reads compared to GPS then lower P1 value by 2 digits as above and fine tune.
Once the ODO speed reading and GPS match pretty close to within 0.2 km/h or so, you can switch off then reset your desired max speed to what you like knowing that the readout will be quite accurate.

C2 try 02 for 12 pole disc.
Some times 8 0r 10 pole work better, 00 /8 pole & 01 /10 pole.
C14 is pas strength so try 2 or 3.

 

[Nealh]

The 201 Q128c is actually a 260rpm winding speed and not 201 as it easily hits 18/19mph or more. I think @36v I had it at 22/23mph which is too fast for 201rpm.

I have just dug my one out from the garage and laced/trued it into a new rim and opened it for a quick service, now going to fit it to the Boardman 700c replacing the Yose hub wheel to get a good comparison of the two.

 

[djah]

P1 try 224 but this figure generally relates to real time ODO reading accuracy.
Ideally to set P1 properly set speed to 25km/h and go for a ride with GPS to compare readings.
If LCD8 under reads compaerd to GPS then raise P1 value by 2 digits and keep doing so until they nearly match then change by 1 digit to fine tune.
If LCD8 over reads compared to GPS then lower P1 value by 2 digits as above and fine tune.
Once the ODO speed reading and GPS match pretty close to within 0.2 km/h or so, you can switch off then reset your desired max speed to what you like knowing that the readout will be quite accurate.

C2 try 02 for 12 pole disc.
Some times 8 0r 10 pole work better, 00 /8 pole & 01 /10 pole.
C14 is pas strength so try 2 or 3.

My Q128C has a 48V battery and the settings I am using are the same as what I have on a lcd3 on another bike.
Do you think experimenting with P1 and setting speed to 25km/hr should solve the zero speed when freewheeling?
Should the display not get speed signals from the wheel speed sensor irrespective of the settings that I have inputted?

 

[Nealh]

Wheel speed signal not affected by P1, P1 is just a setting to adjust for a more accurate speed reading.
Zero speed when freewheeling is a P2 setting issue. I had this with my Bafang CST P2/1 gave no freewheeling speed so changed value to P2/6 and it solved it.

I see you have L1 - L4, not seen those parameters before. Any idea what they change ?

 

[djah]

Wheel speed signal not affected by P1, P1 is just a setting to adjust for a more accurate speed reading.
Zero speed when freewheeling is a P2 setting issue. I had this with my Bafang CST P2/1 gave no freewheeling speed so changed value to P2/6 and it solved it.

I see you have L1 - L4, not seen those parameters before. Any idea what they change ?

Just pulled these from the manual. Must be new to the lcd8

 

[harrys]

Not getting a speedometer reading when coasting? The Q128 does have a speed sensor wired into the motor cable, and your controller should pick it up. It would be the white wire in the 9 pin cable. The P2 setting determines whether the controller uses the speed sensor info. Yours is P2 =1 , which seems correct to me.

I would put a meter on the white wire where it comes into your controller and see if it toggles as the wheel spins.

I had some recent speed sensor problems myself. I lost the speed on my fatbike and it turned out the speed sensor in the motor is dead. Then I put a new KT controller on another bike and had your problem. I was using the big molex connector for the Hall wires, and the pin for the speed sensor was loose.

 

[djah]

Not getting a speedometer reading when coasting? The Q128 does have a speed sensor wired into the motor cable, and your controller should pick it up. It would be the white wire in the 9 pin cable. The P2 setting determines whether the controller uses the speed sensor info. Yours is P2 =1 , which seems correct to me.

I would put a meter on the white wire where it comes into your controller and see if it toggles as the wheel spins.

I had some recent speed sensor problems myself. I lost the speed on my fatbike and it turned out the speed sensor in the motor is dead. Then I put a new KT controller on another bike and had your problem. I was using the big molex connector for the Hall wires, and the pin for the speed sensor was loose.

It only dawned on me yesterday. This is a motor that I replaced the 3 hall sensors in. When I tested it after I made the repair, it rotated on throttle and I was happy. I never thought to check the speed hall sensor. I think this is faulty also. I have ordered a complete replacement hall sensor pcb (which I only saw recently on Ali express) and individual 44E hall sensor. Whichever gets here first gets replaced. Hopefully this will resolve the issue.