can you confirm that there is resistance when you spin the wheel by hand at the end of the video in both directions, forward and backward?
If I was looking for strong resistance, then no....but forward there feels like nothing, apart from a bit of I guess disc rub?....backwards, yes there does feel to be some resistance, but I would assume thats due to the chain and pedals being turned...Im really not sure to be honest. It doesnt feel anything different to when Ive had the bike up on the stand and turning the wheel for cleaning or gear adjustment etccan you confirm that there is resistance when you spin the wheel by hand at the end of the video in both directions, forward and backward?
Sent from my Moto E (4) using TapatalkJust a long-shot. Forget the throttle. Take the battery off and discharge the capacitor, like before. Put the battery back on, select level one and turn the pedals. You probably want to hold the pedal lightly in case it flips backwards. Do it with the bike upside-down or lifted off the ground somehow.
Im being thick obviously.....doesnt the clutch need to be engaged to turn the wheel?So, it seems that your
clutch is free and it's just friction that's turning the wheel, which means one less problem to solve. You need another motor to see whether it's the motor that's causing the controller to send it backwards or whether the controller has flipped somehow.
Not to turn the wheel, but it does have to be engaged to give real power. You wouldn't be able to hold the wheel still if the clutch were engaged and the motor running. With the wheel on the ground, doesn't the motor just whirrr?Im being thick obviously.....doesnt the clutch need to be engaged to turn the wheel?
Sent from my Moto E (4) using TapatalkNot to turn the wheel, but it does have to be engaged to give real power. You wouldn't be able to hold the wheel still if the clutch were engaged and the motor running. With the wheel on the ground, doesn't the motor just whirrr?
That went Woosh, right over my headif the motor has lost power, check your Hall sensors first.
Thanks Tony...thats nice and clear.it is not difficult to do. Follow the motor lead to the controller.
You have 9 wires, 3 fat wires are the phase wires, carrying the power to the motor. The white thin wire is the speed sensor, the 5 remaining wires are:
black: ground
red: 4.3V supply
yellow: H1
Green: H2
Blue: H3
Switch on the LCD then measure the voltage between ground, H1, H2 and H3 in turn.
Ask someone to help you turn the motorwheel very slowly backward to engage the clutch and therefore the rotor.
You should see the voltage reading swings from 0V to 3.3V.
If it does not reach either 0V or 3.3V, the corresponding Hall may have gone or rust has deposited thickly over the sensor.
Replacing Hall sensors is inexpensive, only takes time.
don't do that. Use a thin pin to get to the wires at the JST connector between the controller and the motor cable. For the ground, you can use the black wire of the battery connector, much more accessible.I would need to strip the plugs off to get to find the correct coloured wires?
Okay...Ive just looked again at the pics I posted earlier....the only other connector (apart from the one close to the motor between the motor and the controller) is a blue and brown going to the battery terminals from the controller. All other wires appear to go straight into the controller.don't do that. Use a thin pin to get to the wires at the JST connector between the controller and the motor cable. For the ground, you can use the black wire of the battery connector, much more accessible.
We use a breakout connector to do this test without messing with opening the controller box but I only made one, can't lend you it.
Hi George...thanks for the positivityJust a thought Andy .Your bike is well under two years old, and as you say Oxygen are really good at after sales/guarantee work. If you cannot fix it yourself I would hope that they could step in to repair it for you.
I still have an old 2011 Oxygen Emate City that I still use and when I had an issue with the motor approaching the two year point they (Andrew) sent me a new motor and wheel combined free of charge. I just had to swap tyres and disc rotor over and plug it in and off I went. It is still working today after many thousands of miles.
I then thought I would try to future proof the old girl and rang Oxygen who were now under new ownership in Yorkshire and the chap (John I think) sold me two reconditioned motors out of about eight he had to support his old Emate City owners for £150 although he did say I would not need two. For some reason what I expected to receive was two reconditioned motors, but what I actually received was two wheels with motors attached.
John was right about not needing two, and they sit on a shelf in my garage still.
When I bought my house it had an old floor standing boiler that was over 40 years old and still working. I did get it replaced and the plumber told me that the company that made them had gone out of business because their boilers were too long lasting and reliable.
Anyway I hope you get your bike sorted.