D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
I've never heard of people needing to adjust their brake switch point. You're the only person I've heard of that rides with the brake on.
Oxygen S Cross E-Bike!
- Thread starter Mal69
- Start date
that is a distorsion of what I said.
People may find themselves in a situation where they continue to pedal and use their brakes to slow down a bit, eg a descent, going round a large bend, overtaking etc.
A difference between a bike fitted with sensored brakes and one with un-sensored brakes is crystal clear: you don't have predictable control without sensors.
Sensored brakes when activated will cut the power to the motor and lets you control the speed far better than if the motor is still on.
as I said, you can't predict how people are going to ride the bike, sensored brakes are a better solution and in my view, there is no doubt about that.
I often pedal at the same time as breaking ...without doing that, how do you change down a gear?
the reed switch in those brakes are very sensitive (as they should be). The brake piston is magnetic, when it moves, it activates the switch.
If you want to adjust the free stroke on the lever, you may need to adjust the brake switch point afterward.
You start about 100 yards from the junction or the stalled traffic. Lol. Problem is the average car driver behind you will fekkin overtake and then brake Infront of you if you slow down that early. So leaving it until even the brain dead have noticed that there is a reason to brake coming up is a better idea. That's why I like the cutoff.
I was reading about a motorbike, brushless hub and electric, it has torque of 146Nm, same as some super bikes, that got me thinking.
I see some crank drives advertised as having 80Nm torque, others as 50Nm, what can I expect torque wise for my Oxygen bike, anyone know?
I see some crank drives advertised as having 80Nm torque, others as 50Nm, what can I expect torque wise for my Oxygen bike, anyone know?
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
About 50 Nm when stationary and about 18 Nm at 20 mph. You can assume a straight ramp down (actually a curve) to calculate the in-between torques.
With a crank-drive motor, the torque mentioned is meaningless because, they can't possibly know what gearing you have, and every bike has different gearing. Then, all electric motors make maximum torque at zero speed. If you tried to use the torque at or near that speed, the motor would catch fire.
To make a meaningful torque statement, you'd have to explain where it's measured and at what speed.
On the Bosch motor, they came up with an arbitrary torque figure, then they turned up the current a bit, which gives more torque, so they increased that arbitrary number in proportion to the increase in current, then another manufacturer comes along and knows that he's running his motors at a higher current than Bosch, so he multiplies the Bosch torque number by his difference in current, so all these guys are expressing a number, which has some use in comparing their crank-motors, but has absolutely no meaning otherwise.
With a crank-drive motor, the torque mentioned is meaningless because, they can't possibly know what gearing you have, and every bike has different gearing. Then, all electric motors make maximum torque at zero speed. If you tried to use the torque at or near that speed, the motor would catch fire.
To make a meaningful torque statement, you'd have to explain where it's measured and at what speed.
On the Bosch motor, they came up with an arbitrary torque figure, then they turned up the current a bit, which gives more torque, so they increased that arbitrary number in proportion to the increase in current, then another manufacturer comes along and knows that he's running his motors at a higher current than Bosch, so he multiplies the Bosch torque number by his difference in current, so all these guys are expressing a number, which has some use in comparing their crank-motors, but has absolutely no meaning otherwise.
sinewave controllers fitted to most hub bikes have limited torque at stationary.
Maximum torque depends on winding but I reckon it's at about 2-3mph, not exactly where you would want to run your motor because of low yield.
What is more useful is the RPM at maximum efficiency and/or power. You would want that to coincide with your cruising speed.
Maximum torque depends on winding but I reckon it's at about 2-3mph, not exactly where you would want to run your motor because of low yield.
What is more useful is the RPM at maximum efficiency and/or power. You would want that to coincide with your cruising speed.
Just fitted one of these, easy peasy and it works great. Cheers for the heads up on this bargain Warwick.
I got my bike today, all set up, ready to ride. Vince was also a nice chap, knowledgeable and ran me through a few things on the bike, they also had adjusted spoke tension as it was not right on some spokes at the factory, I am betting some shops do not do that, I got some M.O.T papers showing the before and after spoke tension.
A hub drive is certainly different to crank drive, I had tried a Carrera at Halfords, the Carrera felt more like a normal bike, that doesn't bother me, I went out for a cycle, ended up doing 21miles, lots of hills around here, all different sizes, I managed to get up them all although the steepest did require considerable effort.
I just left it in power mode and adjusted the PAS levels between 0 and 6 depending on the terrain, I also found myself using just five, mainly four gears, I don't think I will use the 21 gears provided on the bike.
I haven't been on a bike in over three years, leg muscles are weak, stamina poorer but did the 21 miles in two hours and fifteen minutes, on a normal bike this route used to take me over five hours, that was due to all the hills.
I wonder if the speedometer is accurate, on a lengthy downhill section I read 42mph, started out lower but speed picked up as I got nearer the end, that just seems very fast for me so I wonder if its accurate.
I was finding it easy to do 15mph on straights and on some hills I was doing 10mph, the steepest hills were difficult and the speedometer said 5mph, i tried the walk mode on a straight, its around 3.2mph and that's too fast, I would have preferred a walk mode of 2mph.
I have read some people saying their E-Bike seems to have some drag going on when Electric assistance is switched off, I felt this, with no assistance it seemed to feel like there was a weight on the bike, I don't know if this is normal for hub driven motors or not.
Brakes are a weak point, I didn't get hydraulic brakes fitted, I perhaps should have, maybe at a later date I will, the brakes work, they are okay but their stopping power isn't great.
The seat is comfy enough for me, my butt hurts a little right now but that's because I have not cycled in years, one thing which stands out is the bike is much bigger than I thought it would be, compared to my old mountain bike it is huge.
I did a few tests, switched Electric assistance off and tried cycling up a steep hill, absolutely no chance, I couldn't do it, I found I could walk it up a hill with no assistance but I cannot cycle it, the Oxygen is definitely heavier than the Carrera I tried in Halfords, I lifted that one easily with one hand, it's okay to cycle with no assistance on straights.
I do have a question, I think the battery was just a tiny bit down when I set out riding it, the voltage said 40.3 and as the battery depleted the voltage dropped, when i got home it was around 37v and four bars slipping into three, is this normal, I am pleased I did 21 miles on high power, adjusting PAS levels and still a lot of power showing on the display.
Its nice and quiet the country roads I cycled today, I saw five cars, six cyclists, four of them were Lycra clad Tour de France wannabees, the roads are bloody atrocious, I felt the bumps and the repaired tarmac sections whenever I went over them, I am using Schwalbe Energizer Pro touring tyres, I have the suspension on, not locked out.
I also tried the derestriction mode, pressed the + and - for ten seconds, nothing happened, I couldn't enter any other mode so couldn't try that out, the lawful mode worked well enough but I figured its always worth trying everything out.
I am happy with the bike, it gets me out and up the hills, it requires effort so I am still getting exercise, the amount of assistance can be changed as the legs improve and now all I need is a mirror to see behind me, the wind makes it hard to hear anything behind.
P.S. Flies and insects, they have a death wish, I forgot how bad it is at this time of the year, loads smacking me in the face, if I can think of anything to add or if anyone has questions on this bike please fire away and I will try and answer them as I gain more experience of using it.
A hub drive is certainly different to crank drive, I had tried a Carrera at Halfords, the Carrera felt more like a normal bike, that doesn't bother me, I went out for a cycle, ended up doing 21miles, lots of hills around here, all different sizes, I managed to get up them all although the steepest did require considerable effort.
I just left it in power mode and adjusted the PAS levels between 0 and 6 depending on the terrain, I also found myself using just five, mainly four gears, I don't think I will use the 21 gears provided on the bike.
I haven't been on a bike in over three years, leg muscles are weak, stamina poorer but did the 21 miles in two hours and fifteen minutes, on a normal bike this route used to take me over five hours, that was due to all the hills.
I wonder if the speedometer is accurate, on a lengthy downhill section I read 42mph, started out lower but speed picked up as I got nearer the end, that just seems very fast for me so I wonder if its accurate.
I was finding it easy to do 15mph on straights and on some hills I was doing 10mph, the steepest hills were difficult and the speedometer said 5mph, i tried the walk mode on a straight, its around 3.2mph and that's too fast, I would have preferred a walk mode of 2mph.
I have read some people saying their E-Bike seems to have some drag going on when Electric assistance is switched off, I felt this, with no assistance it seemed to feel like there was a weight on the bike, I don't know if this is normal for hub driven motors or not.
Brakes are a weak point, I didn't get hydraulic brakes fitted, I perhaps should have, maybe at a later date I will, the brakes work, they are okay but their stopping power isn't great.
The seat is comfy enough for me, my butt hurts a little right now but that's because I have not cycled in years, one thing which stands out is the bike is much bigger than I thought it would be, compared to my old mountain bike it is huge.
I did a few tests, switched Electric assistance off and tried cycling up a steep hill, absolutely no chance, I couldn't do it, I found I could walk it up a hill with no assistance but I cannot cycle it, the Oxygen is definitely heavier than the Carrera I tried in Halfords, I lifted that one easily with one hand, it's okay to cycle with no assistance on straights.
I do have a question, I think the battery was just a tiny bit down when I set out riding it, the voltage said 40.3 and as the battery depleted the voltage dropped, when i got home it was around 37v and four bars slipping into three, is this normal, I am pleased I did 21 miles on high power, adjusting PAS levels and still a lot of power showing on the display.
Its nice and quiet the country roads I cycled today, I saw five cars, six cyclists, four of them were Lycra clad Tour de France wannabees, the roads are bloody atrocious, I felt the bumps and the repaired tarmac sections whenever I went over them, I am using Schwalbe Energizer Pro touring tyres, I have the suspension on, not locked out.
I also tried the derestriction mode, pressed the + and - for ten seconds, nothing happened, I couldn't enter any other mode so couldn't try that out, the lawful mode worked well enough but I figured its always worth trying everything out.
I am happy with the bike, it gets me out and up the hills, it requires effort so I am still getting exercise, the amount of assistance can be changed as the legs improve and now all I need is a mirror to see behind me, the wind makes it hard to hear anything behind.
P.S. Flies and insects, they have a death wish, I forgot how bad it is at this time of the year, loads smacking me in the face, if I can think of anything to add or if anyone has questions on this bike please fire away and I will try and answer them as I gain more experience of using it.
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that's true only for the direct drive motors like the one on the Stealth 1000w bike.
The geared hub motors have internal clutch and gearbox, there is no resistance when the bike moves forward.
the motor is normally disengaged until it provides assistance.
When riding without power, you do feel the 7kgs or so of additional weight but you soon get use to its presence and stop thinking about it.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
The voltage is normal: 42v fully charged and 31v empty.
The drag is an illusion. the motor helps you when it's switched on, but not when it's not. that make a big difference. Lift the wheels off the ground and spin them to see if there's any drag.
There's a secret code to enter to derestrict it. first, you press and hold set and + buttons.
The drag is an illusion. the motor helps you when it's switched on, but not when it's not. that make a big difference. Lift the wheels off the ground and spin them to see if there's any drag.
There's a secret code to enter to derestrict it. first, you press and hold set and + buttons.
Yeh can confirm the 'drag illusion'. I had my conversion on the work stand the other day. Used the throttle to spin the front wheel, it went up to 19.5 mph, released the throttle, it took an age to come to a stop, definitely no drag. I think it's 'cos you get used to the power and when you turn it off you feel the full amount of energy it takes to move the bike.
Mirrors, try one of these, nice and steady, good image and it folds:
https://www.mirrycle.com/item/mountain-mirrycle-mirror/
Mirrors, try one of these, nice and steady, good image and it folds:
https://www.mirrycle.com/item/mountain-mirrycle-mirror/
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
The Mirrycle is a good mirror; however, the Zefal cyclops is just as good as far as the view is concerned, it folds better and it's a lot cheaper. It's no contest!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZEFAL-CYCLOP-triple-adjustment-bar-end-Bike-Mirror-Urban-and-Commute-bicycle-/380991566978?hash=item58b4ddf482:g:bOMAAOxyYSdTC45Q
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZEFAL-CYCLOP-triple-adjustment-bar-end-Bike-Mirror-Urban-and-Commute-bicycle-/380991566978?hash=item58b4ddf482:g:bOMAAOxyYSdTC45Q
I need a good clip on bag for the pannier rack so I can carry a little bit of shopping, also carry water when I go out into the countryside.
I also need a decent bike lock for the ten minutes I am going to be in the shop, the locks I looked at are either cheap or expensive.
Does anyone have recommendations for chain lube and cleaning tips for the bike, I was thinking just soapy water for cleaning the frame, not sure if that would be wise or whether something better is out there.
I also need a decent bike lock for the ten minutes I am going to be in the shop, the locks I looked at are either cheap or expensive.
Does anyone have recommendations for chain lube and cleaning tips for the bike, I was thinking just soapy water for cleaning the frame, not sure if that would be wise or whether something better is out there.
Bought a couple of these last week....very pleased with them. Waterproof, and hold loads. Maybe not quite up to ortlieb standards, but a darn sight cheaper
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-waterproof-pannier-22l/
I am looking for a bag that clips on and is easy release too, I don't want the type that sits over each wheel, all I need is a bag to carry a small camera, 4ft lock chain, a two litre bottle of water and maybe a six pack of crisps.
I bought a Kryptonite New York bike lock and these cleaning products from Fenwick, I hope they are okay, I am still struggling finding a suitable bag for the pannier that appeals to me, so much is out there, do I need to oil the chain or just use the chain lube product, anyone know?
http://www.jejamescycles.com/fenwicks-basic-bike-maintenance-kit-txf5681.html?gclid=COiKk8nmp9QCFQYq0wod9mMJIg
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Just fitted one of these, easy peasy and it works great. Cheers for the heads up on this bargain Warwick.
The brake cut out still works fine from the left hand side, rear brake lever.
The problem with oil-based chain lubes is that they attract grit on the transmission and for someone who services/repairs bikes this is a real pain....in addition it does cause wear. For a couple of years now I've used a water-based lube which in addition to lubing repels all grit from all the transmission parts...as well as the bottom part of the frame if you so choose. I recommend it and have no connection with the firm blah....blah.
https://www.scottoiler.com/us/products/ultimatebikesolution.html
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