Oxydrive kit

Just a heads up, the oxydrive CST 11ah is back on offer at £450.

Just while I think about it. I had to repair an Oxydrive kit for someone. The motor had gone noisy. I found the cause was that the guy had pulled his cable-ties so tight that he broke one of the hall wires inside the motor cable. I can see this problem happening to the main harness to the display/throttle, etc on any kit, so I warn you kit-bike builders. DO NOT STRANGLE THE CABLES WITH YOUR CABLE-TIES.

Just while I think about it. I had to repair an Oxydrive kit for someone. The motor had gone noisy. I found the cause was that the guy had pulled his cable-ties so tight that he broke one of the hall wires inside the motor cable. I can see this problem happening to the main harness to the display/throttle, etc on any kit, so I warn you kit-bike builders. DO NOT STRANGLE THE CABLES WITH YOUR CABLE-TIES.

many thanks, very useful, suspect it's case with mine

I don't believe that the one that I fixed was an isolated example. I repaired it with the wires from a controller that somebody on here burnt out. That wasn't yours was it? If you strangle the main harness to the LCD, anything could happen depending on which wires get shorted or broken.

 

This sort of problem could happen on any kit, so I'd advise all kit suppliers to include a big warning in their box not to tie the cable ties too tight. I bet there's been loads of mysterious problems solved by swapping parts without knowing the cause.

I don't believe that the one that I fixed was an isolated example. I repaired it with the wires from a controller that somebody on here burnt out. That wasn't yours was it? If you strangle the main harness to the LCD, anything could happen depending on which wires get shorted or broken.

 

This sort of problem could happen on any kit, so I'd advise all kit suppliers to include a big warning in their box not to tie the cable ties too tight. I bet there's been loads of mysterious problems solved by swapping parts without knowing the cause.

I just knew that burnt-out controller would one day make someone very happy ;>) Seriously, I was thinking as I ran back to work just now, it would never have occurred to me that squeezing wires with a cable tie could cause problems(logical as it may be if one considers five very thin delicate ones running together in a cluster)

I don't believe that the one that I fixed was an isolated example. I repaired it with the wires from a controller that somebody on here burnt out. That wasn't yours was it? If you strangle the main harness to the LCD, anything could happen depending on which wires get shorted or broken.

 

This sort of problem could happen on any kit, so I'd advise all kit suppliers to include a big warning in their box not to tie the cable ties too tight. I bet there's been loads of mysterious problems solved by swapping parts without knowing the cause.

Is there a way of testing my wires to see that this hasn't happened? I've a feeling my motors have been running sensorless for this reason. When I did my first build I twisted my wires all over the place, trying to get them to fit in the tiny controller box.

Is there a way of testing my wires to see that this hasn't happened? I've a feeling my motors have been running sensorless for this reason. When I did my first build I twisted my wires all over the place, trying to get them to fit in the tiny controller box.

To test the wires out of the motor:

Most have 5 wires for the hall sensors. Put 5v on red, 0v on black, and a meter between one of the remaining three wires and 0v. Spin the wheel. You should get a pulse. Repeat for remaining two wires.

It's almost impossible to check the Oxydrive ones because you can't get on both ends of the wire. These moulded connectors and potted controllers make it virtually impossible. That's similar with the BBS01 kits. On this cheaper kits, you can get at the wires where the connectors are at the the controller. On some you can get at the ends of the wires where they attach to the controllers PCB.