Overclockers Dream

[Deleted member 4366]

I can ride any bike. I don't seem to have problems with size like other people get. It was OK, but it only has a lower steering head bearing. The top one is a nylon bush that was a bit worn, so the steering was a bit like riding a bike with loose head bearings. Also, the side-pull caliper brakes were no good for my 100kg. They had the old black rubber brake blocks in. I think I have to advise anybody that wants to do a conversion to get a donor with disc brakes. It's not worth messing about with rim brakes unless you have something exotic.

 

[Alan Quay]

I can ride any bike. I don't seem to have problems with size like other people get. It was OK, but it only has a lower steering head bearing. The top one is a nylon bush that was a bit worn, so the steering was a bit like riding a bike with loose head bearings. Also, the side-pull caliper brakes were no good for my 100kg. They had the old black rubber brake blocks in. I think I have to advise anybody that wants to do a conversion to get a donor with disc brakes. It's not worth messing about with rim brakes unless you have something exotic.

Thanks, I had completely forgotten about side pull calipers, and how bloody terrible they were.

 

[twinkle]

Hi Folks

The Folding shopper I am in the process of building/converting has calliper brakes and will need to have a decent pair of brake calipers and brake blocks to make braking safer , Both wheels are now 36h alli rimmed rather than the old 28h steel rims ( the wheels came via my local tip and it was a shame to see them being dumped a £5 note and the whole 20" mtb was mine wheels to this project and rear triangle went to the trike .)

With a bit of talent and some 40x3 mm bar stock and a grinder its easy to manufacture some disc brake mounts for the front and rear dropouts that will bolt to the wheel retaining bolt and mudguard eye on the front and rear , This is the method I use for fitting disc brakes on the rear of my home built trikes.


Anything is possible with a little thought .
160mm front and 140 mm rear is the ideal combination on these smaller wheel bikes or you will need to slice and reweld the disc brake side chain stay to get enough clearance for a 160 mm rear disc ( I did this on the q100 upgrade on the e-trike ) and have less than 1mm clearance on the outside of the disc rotor to chain stay .
On my latest trike a 140mm disc fitted happily without any wickedness being carried out with a cutting disc and a mig welder. in a 20" mtb triangle .

BTW these hubs wont fit in a BMX fork without SERIOUS modification and repositioning the front wheel drop outs after stretching open the front forks
I found out when I was going to true up the wheel tonight in a pair of front forks as my spokes arrived today and I have just built the wheel .

regards emma.

 

[twinkle]

Tried to edit the last post and upload a photo but the silly text editor wont allow you to add a photo
so here is the photo via postimage

upload pictures online

The mounting bracket is a piece of 40x3mm mild steel that fits to both mudguard eyes and the caliper attaches happily to the frame

regards emma

 

[derf]

Hi Folks

The Folding shopper I am in the process of building/converting has calliper brakes and will need to have a decent pair of brake calipers and brake blocks to make braking safer , Both wheels are now 36h alli rimmed rather than the old 28h steel rims ( the wheels came via my local tip and it was a shame to see them being dumped a £5 note and the whole 20" mtb was mine wheels to this project and rear triangle went to the trike .)

With a bit of talent and some 40x3 mm bar stock and a grinder its easy to manufacture some disc brake mounts for the front and rear dropouts that will bolt to the wheel retaining bolt and mudguard eye on the front and rear , This is the method I use for fitting disc brakes on the rear of my home built trikes.


Anything is possible with a little thought .
160mm front and 140 mm rear is the ideal combination on these smaller wheel bikes or you will need to slice and reweld the disc brake side chain stay to get enough clearance for a 160 mm rear disc ( I did this on the q100 upgrade on the e-trike ) and have less than 1mm clearance on the outside of the disc rotor to chain stay .
On my latest trike a 140mm disc fitted happily without any wickedness being carried out with a cutting disc and a mig welder. in a 20" mtb triangle .

BTW these hubs wont fit in a BMX fork without SERIOUS modification and repositioning the front wheel drop outs after stretching open the front forks
I found out when I was going to true up the wheel tonight in a pair of front forks as my spokes arrived today and I have just built the wheel .

regards emma.

I'm converting an old Raleigh folder and would be really grateful if you could show a PIC of the disc brake mount ( I have the same problem with old Raleigh brakes),do you feel its secure?

 

[derf]

I'm converting an old Raleigh folder and would be really grateful if you could show a PIC of the disc brake mount ( I have the same problem with old Raleigh brakes),do you feel its secure?

Sorry,just saw above!

 

[derf]

If you get a sensored one, you can use the 3-speed switch to get a speed boost. When you connect the middle wire to one of the outer wires, it changes the timing to get more speed than is normally possible. The other wire on the connector limits the speed, so you have to find out which is which.

Many thanks for this Dave,sorry I only reply now,its because I am not at stage of build where I can try to do this yet

 

[twinkle]

hi there
l am away for a week so only using the phone .
you can blow up the photo of the rear end of the trike . Basically a flat 3mm plate . It could be made permanent with a bit of weld . It depends how far you want to go . Welding the plates would be the best idea but you will need to repair the paint work.
regards Emma

 

[derf]

hi there
l am away for a week so only using the phone .
you can blow up the photo of the rear end of the trike . Basically a flat 3mm plate . It could be made permanent with a bit of weld . It depends how far you want to go . Welding the plates would be the best idea but you will need to repair the paint work.
regards Emma

Many thanks,I shall give it a go (only time I've ever felt grateful for heavy heavy gauge metal on Raleigh folders!)

 

[danielrlee]

Some controllers, like the BMSB KU123, 93 and 63, can give a 120% speed by changing the pulse timing. It's normally done by the high position of the three-speed switch. It only works with hall sensors because otherwise the controller can't get the timing. Other controllers use the three-speed switch to cut down the speed, so you get 100%, 80% and 60% or similar.

Thanks for the explanation Dave. I know it's a little off-topic, but have you used this approach to reach 30mph with a BPM-CST laced into a 26-inch wheel, powered with 12S lipo? I've think I've decided on this setup for my next build, but have been concerned that I'd miss those few extra mph. Are there any negatives to modified pulse timing, ie. reduced torque or range, noise etc?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You can get 30 mph out of a BPM on the flat. You just have to choose the right winding and then give it enough power. The Code 10 36v one does 23 mph in a 26" wheel. 12S will take it up to 28 mph, and then the 3-speed switch will take it to 30.

I had a 19mph BPM, so I connected the wires on the 3-speed switch permanently for 21 mph. It didn't have any problem climbing steep hills like that, nor was there any noticeable loss of efficiency; however, it would be better to do it with a switch, so that you only got the speed when needed. It must be more efficient that way.

 

[derf]

hi there
l am away for a week so only using the phone .
you can blow up the photo of the rear end of the trike . Basically a flat 3mm plate . It could be made permanent with a bit of weld . It depends how far you want to go . Welding the plates would be the best idea but you will need to repair the paint work.
regards Emma

dear all, I have an old Raleigh twenty and whipped off the front wheel and spread the fork (just gentle tugging) and ground open the dropouts a bit - the hub slots right in. But is this safe? will it pop out when one applies power? i plan to fix the brakes with either the hub type conversion above or some Sheldon type arms with better side pull brakes on. many thanks for advice re whether this is a safe way to mount a front hub

 

[derf]

dear all, I have an old Raleigh twenty and whipped off the front wheel and spread the fork (just gentle tugging) and ground open the dropouts a bit - the hub slots right in. But is this safe? will it pop out when one applies power? i plan to fix the brakes with either the hub type conversion above or some Sheldon type arms with better side pull brakes on. many thanks for advice re whether this is a safe way to mount a front hub

sorry forgot to add pics..

 

[Deleted member 4366]

With normal power, it should be OK if you do up the nuts nice and tight.

 

[derf]

With normal power, it should be OK if you do up the nuts nice and tight.

many thanks

 

[Alan Quay]

I have in all laced up and connected to my ku65, 1/3rd shunt soldered. I'm pulling 17.5 amps peak, at about 40v

C'mon then, how far do you think I should push it?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If you've got a decent battery, 20 to 22 amps.

 

[Alan Quay]

Thanks, I'll report back in a couple of days......

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The motor gets noisier as the current goes up.

 

[jackhandy]

C'mon then, how far do you think I should push it?

Get this right, and you shouldn't need to push it at all