Over Volting a Yose 350w hub....Newby questions.

[matthewslack]

Range! It is like a piece of string! Who knows how long it is?

You can find out the worst case for your bike by going out on a full charge
and riding as fast as you can, using throttle if fitted rather than pedals, and pedalling as lightly as you need to keep it going, on whatever hills you have around. Keep going until it stops.

Take 20% off that distance, because you don't want to flatten the battery too often otherwise it won't last too long, and remember that number! Come hell or high water, if you set off with a full battery you should manage that distance.

48V 12.5Ah is nominally 600Wh, so if you ride as above it should be good for 20 miles at least. If you ride moderately, double that, and if you stay below 12mph, use low levels of assist etc you might push it to 60 miles.

 

[Nealh]

Range is so hard, thus far I have 35 miles on a 36v 8ah/288wh battery = 8.3wh per mile, I can improve that to easily about 6wh per mile. How one gets such range depends on the assistance level used, the assistance speed cut off and the ability to ride above the cut off speed with ease.

Like wise I get similar range form my 44v 6ah/264wh battery.

For me I use the superb high reduction geared Bafang G370 hub with a max cut off of 13.2mph & easily can pedal to 19/20mph in benign conditions, hence the lower set cut off speed ( The G370 has a no treacle affect operation compared to other heaver larger lower reduction geared hubs). The reason I have a low cut off is simply to get a boost from a stand still so not to hinder traffic greatly and for head winds. It's pointless trying to fight a head wind with a high assist speed as it just eats up battery wh , better to have a low assist and try to conserve power if touring riding or long day out rides.
The only other reason I use assisted speed is because I'm asthmatic and it takes the edge off it allowing me to ride without many issues.

 

[leezen]

ES, is a stateside forum called Endless Sphere.
Cwah was a guy who used to post on here who always had crazy builds.
C5 is a setting parameter within KT controllers.
A rider can expect to use 10-20 watt hours of battery per mile used. The fitter the rider, less windy the conditions, the flater the ride, the lower the figure.
So a 12,5ah battery at 36v is 432Wh (36x12.5). As you are quite light lets assume 10Wh/mile giving around 43miles. On a bad day with loads of shopping 21miles.
Generally the lower the power setting one rides in then the longer the range. On flat bits with the wind behind me, or slight down bits, I pull a brake lever just enough to cut the motoer but not brake - it helps.

Mate legend that clears alot up I would have never guessed that. Ill defs check out endless sphere and the c5 setting on the KT controller.

43miles! Crikey that is alot further than I would have thought I would have been happy with 21.

Thanks again Im off to start researching parts to buy.

 

[leezen]

Range is so hard, thus far I have 35 miles on a 36v 8ah/288wh battery = 8.3wh per mile, I can improve that to easily about 6wh per mile. How one gets such range depends on the assistance level used, the assistance speed cut off and the ability to ride above the cut off speed with ease.

Like wise I get similar range form my 44v 6ah/264wh battery.

For me I use the superb high reduction geared Bafang G370 hub with a max cut off of 13.2mph & easily can pedal to 19/20mph in benign conditions, hence the lower set cut off speed ( The G370 has a no treacle affect operation compared to other heaver larger lower reduction geared hubs). The reason I have a low cut off is simply to get a boost from a stand still so not to hinder traffic greatly and for head winds. It's pointless trying to fight a head wind with a high assist speed as it just eats up battery wh , better to have a low assist and try to conserve power if touring riding or long day out rides.
The only other reason I use assisted speed is because I'm asthmatic and it takes the edge off it allowing me to ride without many issues.

Those number are very impressive and if thats all the battery you need you must have a very light weight set up.

Cheers for the info.

 

[Nealh]

Those number are very impressive and if thats all the battery you need you must have a very light weight set up.

Cheers for the info.

The bike build is documented on the forum, in the search pages use the words Roadrat build. The bike is average at about 22kgs with hub gears and panniers the range is due to the free wheeling hub motor and a lower cut off speed. Being easy to ride with no power range is increased greatly.

 

[leezen]

The bike build is documented on the forum, in the search pages use the words Roadrat build. The bike is average at about 22kgs with hub gears and panniers the range is due to the free wheeling hub motor and a lower cut off speed. Being easy to ride with no power range is increased greatly.

Hahah Road Rat love it!!! Ill head over there now and check it out.

 

[egroover]

Those number are very impressive and if thats all the battery you need you must have a very light weight set up.

Cheers for the info.

I've managed 62 miles on my 36v/17.5ah battery (630whr) bafang mid drive bbs01 250w 15.5mph limited Boardman MTB conversion (about 22kg plus panniers/spare battery) last summer in Somerset (fairly flat), so about 10whr per mile, pretty pleased with that, just taking it easy on assist level 1/2/3 (of 9) and an average 9 mph
Similar on my Carrera Crossfire-e hub drive in eco mode, 418whr battery, empty at 47 miles, so 8.9whr per mile, again flattish terrain, just a couple of biggish hills

 

[Nealh]

When I had the BBS01 10wh was what I would also get, 52miles with a 522wh/14.5ah battery. The BBS isn't nice to ride with no power unless you have Geoff capes legs.

The key as both egroover and I well know is that for good range without taking some 1200wh of battery is to use low pas and restrict speed. It all depends on the riding one wants to do as to how one decides to use the power and speed.

 

[PC2017]

You could alternatively, save a few hundred quid and purchase another battery a smaller one perhaps. The lower the battery voltage the more effort is needed to attain a fair speed and that can be troublesome in head winds. I some times require a fully charged battery for my journey home to avoid the need for effort in case my blood glucose is low or my insulin is not working as it should. On a good, clam day I can get 32 mile on a 10.4ah staying below PAS 3.

 

[leezen]

You could alternatively, save a few hundred quid and purchase another battery a smaller one perhaps. The lower the battery voltage the more effort is needed to attain a fair speed and that can be troublesome in head winds. I some times require a fully charged battery for my journey home to avoid the need for effort in case my blood glucose is low or my insulin is not working as it should. On a good, clam day I can get 32 mile on a 10.4ah staying below PAS 3.

This is all fantastic real world info thanks so much guys. I just purchased (aka took a chance on) a second hand battery its 48v 11.6ah 556wh and from what you guys tell me this will be more than enough to start with. I would have brought new but Im trying to keep this projects cost to a minimum.

 

[leezen]

G'day Bloke and Sheilas,

Just a quick update on how the project is going. So as stated before I have 2nd hand 48v down tube battery for (130 euros) and I just ordered a:
- KT 30A sine wave controller with the water proof fittings.
- Thumb throttle.
- PAS sensor
- LCD3 Display
Amazon order total = 136 euros

All from Amazon. I dont ever buy from Amazon as I dont like how they treat sellers but my work gave me voucher just shy of the euro amount needed so Ebike parts it is.

Now there is the possibility of ordering a FixerUppera AKM128 from EbayKlein (German Gumtree) so my question is how repairable are these motors thinking worst case?

Ill inquire about a price etc with the seller and see if its worth it but at the present the warning with the motor is that its noisy so Im thinking buggered gears.

Once again thank you for your time and responses.

 

[PC2017]

I dont ever buy from Amazon

Don't blame you mate - I will only make an Amazon purchase if I can't source from anywhere else, my reasons are mainly working conditions and environmental.

On a lighter note... Thanks for the update.

 

[leezen]

Don't blame you mate - I will only make an Amazon purchase if I can't source from anywhere else, my reasons are mainly working conditions and environmental.

On a lighter note... Thanks for the update.

No worries at all PC2017 Ill keep posting as the project continues. Its slow going due to that defining factor which is money but Ill get there God willing.

On the Amazon thing I would love there to be a UK or european supplier so a family in this region could benefit from our hobby. If you know of any let me know as I prefer to support families not monopolies.

 

[leezen]

I was just about to order my motor but then realised my KT controller dosnt have a 9 pin plug (that seems big enough) for the motor to connect to but has what looks to be a Z916 (according to GRINs connector learn page). I think this is the motor connector as it has heavy gauge wires on it.

Also my throttle and PAS (KT V12L) are 3 pin and the LCD3 are 5 pin plug. I have seen extension cables for these but I guess Im asking for any clarification on my controller wiring layout and what Ill need.

I know I need an anderson to XT60 for the battery.

Pics below for clarity.

 

[Nealh]

That three pin motor cable connector on the controller is old hat stuff and for that is unsensored and rare to find a hub nowadays. Quite surprised some one is till selling a controller like that with only a three phase connector.

 

[Nealh]

This is all fantastic real world info thanks so much guys. I just purchased (aka took a chance on) a second hand battery its 48v 11.6ah 556wh and from what you guys tell me this will be more than enough to start with. I would have brought new but Im trying to keep this projects cost to a minimum.

You need to be sure that battery can deliver 35a continuous other wise money down the drain.

 

[Nealh]

Frankly you probably have cost yourself more money by not speccing you build properly and the goals you want to achieve from day one.
One should source the motor first (or even a kit) , once the motor is found one needs to source that a compatible controller system is found that will match the motor before even buying either them, prior to this as one is wanting 48v and 30a current delivery, battery availability and cost should also have been looked in to propelry.

I think you will rue willy nilly buying stuff which is obsolete or just not compatible.

 

[Nealh]

Like pc2017 amazon is the most unlikely place I would ever buy from, it is one of the worst market places to buy from.

 

[leezen]

That three pin motor cable connector on the controller is old hat stuff and for that is unsensored and rare to find a hub nowadays. Quite surprised some one is till selling a controller like that with only a three phase connector.

Oh hahaha Rookie error but thanks for the info. I looked at the ad and it said sinewavebut had no info if it was a sensored or sensorless controller.

Yeah I understand buying things willy nilly isnt not ideal like I have. The reason for buying off Amazon which I hate doing is I had 125 euro voucher from work and I had to spend it there.

I will be sending the controller back as its unused and still possible.

Atm the parts I do have are LCD3, PAS, Thumb throttle and a Battery. For to moment Ill run the 2nd hand battery but keep the current draw low in the display settings. (Which I believe is possible from what I have read)

Ill go ahead a make an order from TopBike for a motor, controller, extension cable and torque arm.

Cheers NealHfor all your help.

 

[PC2017]

extension cable

Only a quick read but I see no mention of a 1 to 4 cable required for your LCD(green 5 pin), normally extension cable are just that ie to extend the end of either the motor cable or the 1 to 4 cable, you will defo need a 4 to 1 cable, the "1" end goes to the controller and the "4" is needed for the LCD however the throttle and brake sensors are optional albeit fun to have!

Caution not all brake sensor connectors are made the same.
Example of a 1 to 4

1-4 Julet Extend Cable Ebike Waterproof Cable 29.5/72.5/140cm for Meter/Brake/Throttle [Julet 1-4 WP Cable] - $4.10 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

Zen Cart! 1-4 Julet Extend Cable Ebike Waterproof Cable 29.5/72.5/140cm for Meter/Brake/Throttle [Julet 1-4 WP Cable] - ★★★★★ 1-4 Julet Extend Cable Ebike Waterproof Cable 29.5/72.5/140cm for Meter/Brake/Throttle 1--2Pins Red color connector for brake 2--3Pins yellow color connector for...

www.topbikekit.com

Top tip I always purchase a spare in case one fails