Orbea Optima

Oldie

Pedelecer
Mar 29, 2013
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I collected my Orbea today with an open mind about how best to convert it. This evening I tried fitting the Q100 rear wheel from my Claud Butler but after attaching a spare disc on the Q100 I noticed significant rubbing against the frame. Looks like it would take excessive filing to get it to spin freely. If I leave the disc off then I will just have to use V brakes on the rear. I might check the Q100 specs against other available rear hub motors and get a new one. I know that there are many members on here who could sort something out quite quickly but that's not where my talents lie.

Or, I might go down the crank drive route as my Merida has been a real success in the hills. However, the Orbea was bought as a town bike and I'd prefer the smooth gear changes that the rear hub provides. I might even go for a front hub.

Anyway, it's a lovely bike and cheap enough to allow me options on how best to convert.

Orbea Optima.jpg
 

saneagle

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Oct 10, 2010
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I collected my Orbea today with an open mind about how best to convert it. This evening I tried fitting the Q100 rear wheel from my Claud Butler but after attaching a spare disc on the Q100 I noticed significant rubbing against the frame. Looks like it would take excessive filing to get it to spin freely. If I leave the disc off then I will just have to use V brakes on the rear. I might check the Q100 specs against other available rear hub motors and get a new one. I know that there are many members on here who could sort something out quite quickly but that's not where my talents lie.

Or, I might go down the crank drive route as my Merida has been a real success in the hills. However, the Orbea was bought as a town bike and I'd prefer the smooth gear changes that the rear hub provides. I might even go for a front hub.

Anyway, it's a lovely bike and cheap enough to allow me options on how best to convert.
Was it the disc rubbing on the frame? That's normal. You have to put a washer on the axle to hold it off on the disc side.
 
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Oldie

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Mar 29, 2013
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Thanks. Sorted with a couple of washers and the wheel now spins freely.

I'll be using my spare Hailong 36v battery so now have to pick a controller/pas/Display etc and choose where to locate the battery. Does it matter if I go for a 250w or 500w controller? Just had a quick look on psw power and not sure which option is best, if any.


Orbea Motor Install.jpg
 

Peter.Bridge

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Apr 19, 2023
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That is a lovely looking bike and a step through with hydraulic disc brakes - is there space for a LHS pas sensor?
 

saneagle

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Oct 10, 2010
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Thanks. Sorted with a couple of washers and the wheel now spins freely.

I'll be using my spare Hailong 36v battery so now have to pick a controller/pas/Display etc and choose where to locate the battery. Does it matter if I go for a 250w or 500w controller? Just had a quick look on psw power and not sure which option is best, if any.


View attachment 52916
250w or 500w doesn't mean anything for controllers. What matters is the maximum current. 48v is always better than 36v because you get 30% more of everything that's good with almost zero downside. You didn't mention the rpm of the motor. 48v is more or less mandatory for 201 rpm,, optional for 260 rpm and not suitable for 328 rpm.

At 48v, 15 amps max is plenty. At 36v, a heavy person might want as much as 22A, but that would be a bit high for the 328 rpm motor, where 17A would be better. Personally, I'd go for 17A at 36v.

I prefer the controller's with block connectors because they're easier to test when things aren't working properly. With the waterproof connectors, you can't get easy access to any test points. I stick my controllers in an under-seat toolbag that you can get from Ebay for about a fiver. You can put a zip-tie through the zip if you're worried about security, but I've never had any problem in nearly 10 years. You can also keep a puncture kit and emergency lights in the bag.
 
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Oldie

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Mar 29, 2013
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Thanks again.

RPM 201. My battery is 36V and yes, I think that I'll now look at ordering a 17a controller with block connectors.
 

Oldie

Pedelecer
Mar 29, 2013
150
41
Scotland
That is a lovely looking bike and a step through with hydraulic disc brakes - is there space for a LHS pas sensor?
Just tried my old PAS to see if it will fit but there doesn't appear to be enough room. I recall seeing some other type of PAS mounting position so just searching for alternatives at the moment.

edit - brakes are mechanical discs but I'll put a spare hydraulic on the rear.
 

saneagle

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Oct 10, 2010
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Thanks again.

RPM 201. My battery is 36V and yes, I think that I'll now look at ordering a 17a controller with block connectors.
Make sure you get a 36v/48v one in case you find 201 rpm too slow. Most are 36v/48v, but not all.
 

Oldie

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Mar 29, 2013
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Picture with L/H crank removed. I believe that Woosh do a seat tube mounted PAS but I haven't seen and pics of this type of installation (yet).
 

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Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
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wooshbikes.co.uk
Email Andy for the seat post mount and a new magnetic ring, you already have the sensor.
 
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Bikes4two

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Feb 21, 2020
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You didn't mention the rpm of the motor. 48v is more or less mandatory for 201 rpm,, optional for 260 rpm and not suitable for 328 rpm.

At 48v, 15 amps max is plenty. At 36v, a heavy person might want as much as 22A, but that would be a bit high for the 328 rpm motor, where 17A would be better.
Hi @saneagle - my ebike knowledge is limited (but growing every day thanks to this forum) and as a TSDZ2 kit person I've never had to understand BLDC hub motors, the different RPMs and voltages etc. but seeing as I might have to get a hub motor someday, I'd like to learn more.

Any chance of an idiots guide to why RPM/voltage matters or a pointer to a useful web page/YT vid please?
 

Oldie

Pedelecer
Mar 29, 2013
150
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Scotland
Email Andy for the seat post mount and a new magnetic ring, you already have the sensor.
I also have the old magnetic ring and I can get the motor running by holding the PAS sensor close to it but the mount that you mentioned, whilst a likely solution, might entail a larger magnetic ring in my case, I'm not sure (pic attached). Also, the distance between the ring and sensor needs a delicate adjustment to get it working, which surprised me. I thought that it would work much like the speed sensor and "close enough" would be ok.
 

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Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
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Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
Close enough is good. You can adjust the gap with extra washers or another cable tie saddle. Send some pictures to Andy.
 
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saneagle

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Hi @saneagle - my ebike knowledge is limited (but growing every day thanks to this forum) and as a TSDZ2 kit person I've never had to understand BLDC hub motors, the different RPMs and voltages etc. but seeing as I might have to get a hub motor someday, I'd like to learn more.

Any chance of an idiots guide to why RPM/voltage matters or a pointer to a useful web page/YT vid please?
I don't know of any good explanations, but it's not difficult. This is a simplified explanation. Please no nerds quoting science facts.

1. A motor will reach a maximum speed that's proportional to voltage given to it.

2. A 48v battery (13S) has 30% more volts than a 36v one(10S), so a motor that spins up to 100 rpm at 36v will go 130 rpm with 48v. Don't forget that batteries change voltage as they run down, so your 100 rpm 36v motor will do 116 rpm when the battery is fully charged (42v) and 86 rpm when the battery is run down (31v)

3. When a motor spins, it generates voltage that cancels out the battery voltage. Using the above example, the motor will generate 36v at 100 rpm, so the net voltage is zero at that speed, and there's nothing to make the motor spin any faster, which is why it has this theoretical max speed. Obviously, the practical max speed is a bit less than 100 rpm because you still need something to keep it spinning.

4. The motor will make good power up to about 75% of its max rpm because at that speed (75 rpm) it's generating 27v, leaving 9v to push current through the motor, which is still enough to get meaningful power out of it. Below that speed, the controller regulates the power (cuts it) anyway.

5. 15 mph is approx 201 rpm with a 26" wheel.

Putting it all together, if you have a bike with 26" wheels and a 36v 201 rpm motor. The wheel will spin to 15 mph off the ground when the battery is half discharged. It will make good power on the road up to about 11 mph, which some might find a bit slow. Ideally, if you want good power up to 15mph with a half discharged battery, you'd need a 268 rpm motor, and even then, you'd feel the power weaken off a bit as the battery goes down from 36v. Nearly all EC compliant 36v ebike hub-motors are around 260-270 rpm.

When you run a 36v 201 rpm motor at 48v, it becomes a 261 rpm one because the 30% more volts make it spin 30% faster.

There's one extra advantage of 48 v. The controller sends pulses of power to the motor at high frequency. The pulse widths are the current and the height is the voltage. The power in each pulse is the height times the width, so you get more power in each pulse with 48v compared with 36v. That has the effect of increasing the torque, so with the same current, you get more torque running at 48v compared with 36v. In other words, your 36v 260 rpm motor will run at the same speed as a 36v 201 rpm one running with 48v, but when using the same current, the 48v one makes 30% more torque.

One more consideration and we're done. The efficiency of the motor is dependent on the actual speed it's running compared with it's maximum speed. Once you go below 50% of maximum speed, efficiency drops off rapidly, the lost power is converted to heat and things start to become very hot, which is why you can't have a very fast motor. The ideal motor has a max speed of roughly 33% more than your modal riding speed. That will give you good power and efficiency.

To summarise the last couple of points, lets consider two bikes. One has the 36v 260 rpm motor a 15A controller and a 36v 10Ah battery, and the other has a 36v 201 rpm motor, a 15A controller and a 48v 10Ah battery. With the wheels off the ground, they'll both spin up to the same speed. They'll both have the same efficiency at the same speeds. The 48v one will have 30% more torque, so will be able to accelerate faster and climb hills steeper hills or the same hills faster, and faster means better efficiency, so will be more efficient overall. The 48v one will get slightly more range due to its better overall efficiency, but bear in mind it's starting with 30% more capacity in the battery, and the battery would be 30% more expensive because it has 30% more cells in it.
 

Bikes4two

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Feb 21, 2020
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Thankyou @saneagle for taking the time for that write-up, some of which has sunk in and some will take another reading (or two).

My tsdz2 has a declared speed of 4000 RPM and a gearing ratio (motor to pedal cranks) of around 42:1 which equates to a pedalling cadence of around 95 RPM max.

I've instinctively felt that some pedal cadences are delivering more power to the road wheels than others and your writeup confirms that (so for 95 RPM the ideal shall we call it, is around 70 rpm?).

The advantage with a mid drive system comes into play here in that you can use the gears to keep the cadence near to optimum for different road speeds.
 

saneagle

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Oct 10, 2010
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Thankyou @saneagle for taking the time for that write-up, some of which has sunk in and some will take another reading (or two).

My tsdz2 has a declared speed of 4000 RPM and a gearing ratio (motor to pedal cranks) of around 42:1 which equates to a pedalling cadence of around 95 RPM max.

I've instinctively felt that some pedal cadences are delivering more power to the road wheels than others and your writeup confirms that (so for 95 RPM the ideal shall we call it, is around 70 rpm?).

The advantage with a mid drive system comes into play here in that you can use the gears to keep the cadence near to optimum for different road speeds.
Yes, read it a couple of times. It's a lot to take in at once, but eventually everything will click into place.

Your TSDZ2 motor turns the cranks at a maximum speed of 95 rpm, but it only makes max power up to 71.5 rpm. Don't forget that's with a half-charged battery (36v). If the battery is fully charged it's about 10% higher and when empty 10% lower. Assuming a half-charged battery, what that means is if you pedal fast than 71.5 rpm, the power decreases.

Your goal should always be to be pedalling in the range 60 to 70 rpm, which is where most people like to pedal. If you change down a couple of gears, your pedal speed can go too high into the range where there's no power. If you're in a too high gear and are pedalling too slow, you still get torque but you get less power and less efficiency.

On a normal bike, your legs can make more or less constant torque at any speed you can pedal, but different people have a different maximum speed they can pedal. Normal pedal speed is 60-90 rpm. You get spinners and grinders. The spinners are happy above 100 rpm. Whatever your pedal speed, when you want more power, you change down a gear or two and spin faster because power = torque x rpm, so the faster you spin the more power you get. That's a problem with low speed motors like yours because the motor obeys a different rule.

The BBS** motors have a higher rpm than yours. Bosch motors go up to 120 rpm, but the different versions have slightly different speeds.

When you apply a higher voltage to a crank motor, say 36v up to 48v, you'd have to pedal 30% faster to get the benefot of it, which for most people is not very comfortable, but if you're a spinner, that's a good way of increasing the motor's speed to match your own, especially a slow one like a TSDZ2, but you'd have to change the controller as well, so a bit more complicated than a hub-motor.

The main points to help you understand are:
  • Any motor has a max speed, which is dependent on the voltage you give it.
  • The best speed to run a motor is 75% of it's maximum speed.
  • When you run the motor too slow with high power, it becomes inefficient and heats up.
 
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Oldie

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Mar 29, 2013
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Scotland
Email Andy for the seat post mount and a new magnetic ring, you already have the sensor.
In the end (more to do with lack of patience) I just fixed the sensor to the frame with a dab of superglue and I'll see how that works out. Felt pretty solid this morning.

I used the old display, speed sensor etc and controller from my old bottle battery to test everything was OK and she runs fine. Display cable routed internally but battery mount etc only held on by cable ties at the moment. Saneagle's underseat bag on order so I may use that to house the old controller in the meantime although I'm a bit concerned about the motherboard being exposed (the casing is part of the bottle battery holder). A new controller will sort that out. I've also put the Orbea's tyre on the old wheel but was unable to use the cassette as it was a different fitting. Pity, as the Orbea has a much wider range and almost brand new. I'll maybe look into that later.
Orbea - test set up.jpgOrbea PAS3.jpg
 
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Oldie

Pedelecer
Mar 29, 2013
150
41
Scotland
Quick tupperware Heath Robinson controller box for test run. Once I get my bag I'll tidy up the wiring etc and securely mount the battery. Anyway, the result was excellent - it's a nice bike to ride and has all the power that I'll need for my local tracks.
 
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saneagle

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Oct 10, 2010
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Quick tupperware Heath Robinson controller box for test run. Once I get my bag I'll tidy up the wiring etc and securely mount the battery. Anyway, the result was excellent - it's a nice bike to ride and has all the power that I'll need for my local tracks.
Brilliant. Another happy ending. We can all sleep tonight. Just one final point: Does it have 700C wheels? If so, the speed will be 7.7% higher than all those things I mentioned before for 26" wheels.
 

Oldie

Pedelecer
Mar 29, 2013
150
41
Scotland
Yes, 700C wheels. I did notice that the motor felt punchier than when I used it on the Claud Butler (also 700) but I guess that the new battery makes a difference. Not that the old setup was struggling, I've been impressed by it's longevity.