Options for Conversion to E Bike

[Cockney Jimbo]

I am planning to convert my trusty and much travelled Dawes Super Galaxy (1989 model) to an E bike. Its currently still set up in its original Drop Bars, 3x6 Derailier gears, Cantilever brakes but has been updated to a sealed BB. I need to change to a flat bar more upright configuration anyway.

As far as was practically possible I'd like to ride unassisted but with help when I need it; or my ageing body is running low on energy. I'd still like to be able to cycle camp with it, without of course doing some of the 60 to 70 mile days I used to.

My first thoughts on conversion are based around a hub unit rather than a mid drive. I've been reading about the advantages/disadvantages of both and have found no common consensus on what works best, so options.

1. Front Hub kit, keep existing gear set up

2. Front Hub kit, convert to hub gear (Nexus 8 ?)

I'm more inclined to the front hub as given my desire to still cycle camp there would still be occasions where luggage weight over the rear wheel could be in the region of 20 Kilos.

The Whoosh kits look tempting.

I would welcome any advice, thanks in advance for any help.

 

[peter.c]

Hi
I have tried front drive with a alfine 11 on the rear I could not get on with it, ok in the dry on road but in the wet or on gravel I found it slid or spun but that was probably my heavy hand so I went for a mid drive but it is a personal choice many people find it ok
I now have nexus 8 on one bike and alfine 8 on two I love the ability to change gear whilst at a stop

 

[Nealh]

8Fun bbs with Alfine 8 will be a better option then front hub, you may even be able to have a double ring with a BBS adapter spider. No real chain line worries with single rear sprocket and Alfine st500 chain tensioner.

 

[peter.c]

Just given up trying to fit bbs01 and a gates belt drive today cannot get it to line up but will go back to a chain tomorrow I have to agree with Nealh the alfine 8 is the way to go

 

[BG bicycle]

I personally wouldn’t choose a front hub, front forks few if any be designed to absorb the stresses of a hub motor.

What about swapping over your exist sprocket onto a rear hub?

I often carry a heavy daypack, although anything very heavy I’ve a cargo trailer.

 

[Turkeylegs]

I've done the same thing to my Raleigh Royal with a 250 watt front hub for the same reasons. Its turned out fantastic and I couldn't be happier. If you stay legal with the power you'll have no problems and the range is better with a smaller battery, there's plenty of help when you need it.
Going for more power brings its own problems in my opinion.

 

[Woosh]

1. Front Hub kit, keep existing gear set up

2. Front Hub kit, convert to hub gear (Nexus 8 ?)

XF07 in 700C rim.
Straightforward installation, easy to take the motor wheel off.

 

[tommie]

Just given up trying to fit bbs01 and a gates belt drive today cannot get it to line up but will go back to a chain tomorrow I have to agree with Nealh the alfine 8 is the way to go

Another vote here for the BBSxx / Alfine 8 combination,
my first conversion on a Halfords mtb, very useful to change gears when you`ve stopped, straight chainline etc...

 

[Woosh]

Another vote here for the BBSxx / Alfine 8 combination,
my first conversion on a Halfords mtb, very useful to change gears when you`ve stopped, straight chainline etc...

how could you want to see a classic bike converted with a BBS?

 

[Cockney Jimbo]

Thanks for the responses, I think I'm still inclined to go with the front hub idea. My first priority is to give the existing machine its initial make over and make sure its still in good nick. Decided that any move down the Hub gear line could wait in the background. So in order of priority I have:

a. Strip down, clean, re-grease, check all the bearings etc.

b. Convert to flat bars, re-root cables (have brought V to replace Canti brakes), install combined shifters, fit 7 speed cassette (there's space, might need to have rear wheel reset). All the needed bits being assembled.

c. Ride it for a bit to see if anything breaks.

d. Save up the pennies for the conversion kit (hope no anti dumping tax spirals the price)

So there's the plan, or at worst some of the most expensive procrastination I've ever done. Oh and perhaps just for some diversion have another little go with the Kudos to remind myself why I want an electrified version of a bike I know fits and had taken me miles.

 

[D C]

install combined shifters

You might be better with separate brake levers/shifters, it can give you better options when you come to install a throttle and display on the bars.
I have a front wheel XF07 kit, also a rear wheel MXUS XF08 kit from Woosh. Front is okay but scrabbles a bit on loose or slippy surfaces and you have to be careful applying power on a tight turn. You do get used to it but it greatly changes the character of the bike.
Rear is a far better ride and keeps the bike handling more as normal. I understand your concern about extra weight on the back end though a motor doesn't add all that much to it. Best of course with either option to use a down tube battery if possible.
So much to think about with your first kit!
Good luck with the build.
Dave.

 

[BG bicycle]

250w motor shouldn’t present any problems.

A detailed check and some maintenance will give away any weakness in the forks.

A 250 watt motor won’t give concern on a well maintained bicycle.

 

[Hightechpete]

I was in a similar situation a few months ago, i.e. advancing years and rheumatoid meant that I needed more than a little help on the Welsh hills.
I fitted a throttle only 250w Cyclotricity front wheel kit to a forty year old Raleigh, as a sort of 'suck it and see' experiment.

I didn't want or need any fancy display or pas, all I wanted was a little help when the going got tough, so I fitted the cheapest, simplest kit I could find.

It was a revelation, 500 miles later, my fitness is returning and I'm out every Sunday morning for a forty or fifty mile ride with my friends who ride regular lightweight road bikes, and I love it. I've had no traction problems yet, and that includes an 18% Strava grade 4 climb (you have to select the right gear and be prepared to work a bit).

The front wheel kit does alter the handling a little, but the Galaxy is a pretty stable, slow-handling bike and as such, I think would be suitable for this type of conversion.

One word of warning, it does get a bit addictive. I've since bought an e MTB as a general runabout, and have ordered a rear wheel kit for my lightweight Trek. Fortunately I have an understanding wife who allows my indulgences.

Pete.

 

[KirstinS]

I run a alfine 8 and bbs on my hardtail. Great combination. Chainline was sorted by flipping the alfine sprocket the other way (thanks for the tip Brighton ebikes). Also a proper sprung , twin cog chain tensioner rather than a singlator style one. And a bling ring. Now it's perfect

I ran front hub on a similar classic style bike (a steel on one Pompetamine- long since discontinued ). I loved it because it feels two wheel drive but it doesn't feel like a bicycle anymore . Bbs or rear drive hub will feel way more natural .

Depends what you want really. Front hub may require new forks or a narrow , non "standard" hub .

For this bike, if it were me , I'd be choosing between rear or mid drive tbh


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[KirstinS]

Meant to add. A properly programmed bbs doesn't need brake cutouts. That's imho and others are available! Particularly true if you don't have a throttle . They can get stuck on occasion especially if you ride in rain (I'm an all weather commuter as well as fun ride)


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[Idler]

Hello Jimbo

I was in the same predicament 2/3 months ago. My bike was a 80s drop handle Falcon Triumphe, I went for the Woosh XF07 kit. Woosh are v good, answer queries give good advice etc etc, I would reco them.

If your bike is at all like mine and you get the XF07 what you will have to do is file out the front forks to fit the greater dia axle on the supplied hub motor. I tried angle grinding it out in situ, after the first "grind" realised that if I continued I would have a fork rather than a pair of forks Maybe a Dremmel would work but I dont have a Dremmel! The next thing is you will have to do is take off the chain wheel to fit the PAS ring, the final thing is to fit the rivenuts on the downtube. The rest is just trivial.

The kit works well and I am pleased with the kit. BUT, when I got to fitting the kit I realised the bike was not really up to it, bearings were worn out, there was corrosion I hadnt seen etc etc. There were other problems, the gear shifters are on the downtube, and putting the battery on the downtube made them awkward to access, although with electric power you hardly need to change gear much unless you are a speed merchant I mostly ride relatively slowly around 10-12 mph and only rarely shift out of power level 1, even for going up steep hills! (bought a larger battery but dont need it with my style of riding)

Some of the other contributors have mentioned the lack of grip of the front wheel kits. I have not experienced this, a farm road I travel on regularly goes up a very steep hill and in places its gravel, at times there has been a very small amount of scrabbling, I have also not noticed any prob riding thro sandy ground. Again, I dont have a lot of experience but this has been my experience!!! I suspect its a question of how much power you are applying, I dont ride fast in these conditions, and if you were, and applying a lot of power then you would probably loose grip. Woosh do claim that the XF07 motor is not the most powerful. One problem I have had and no one else has noted is to do with fitting the flat bars. I did this but I find the steering very "twitchy" especially on farm tracks etc. I originally thought this was because I was riding a road bike on non metalled surfaces, farm roads etc (its not so noticeable on the road) , now I am not so sure, it may be an effect of the front wheel drive. Basically the effect is that the steering is v sensitive. Perhaps you can get dampers like on motor bikes?

Crikey, this is a monologue would I do this again? No, I would buy an electric bike suitable for the riding I wanted to do. But in fairness the Woosh kit has not worked out too bad and I intend to stick with it.

Idler

 

[D C]

lack of grip of the front wheel kits. I have not experienced this

That's probably because you mainly use power level 1, mine is okay up to 3, be careful if you try it on 5 on a loose surface especially if you are leaning in to a turn. It's fine if you are ready for it.

it may be an effect of the front wheel drive. Basically the effect is that the steering is v sensitive

It is a characteristic of front wheel drive, it sort of under steers on a slight curve then as the curve tightens it changes to an over steer effect which can catch you out if you aren't concentrating.
It's still a decent kit though.
Dave.

 

[Idler]

Not wishing to hijack the thread Thanks for that DC,esp the sensitivity of the steering. I dont find it noticeable on the road but on farm tracks where There a load of potholes in one place and I am steering to avoid them its v noticeable. Once again thanks.

Idler