oil cooling info needed please

[Stalkingcat]

Thanks

Which controller do you use?

I'm using a Lyen 12Fet set at around 45amps, with 20s in the frame's down tube. Going to stick the controller in a saddle bag and it should be pretty indistinguishable from a standard bike.

A sine wave controller like your's is prob a better option, I just had the Lyen hanging around so good for now.

 

[Stalkingcat]

with s12sh from bmsbattery which must give circa 50a

I'm not sure how accurate the reading of 50a is, how are you monitoring it?

You may have to do a shunt calibration as I think its only a 23A rated controller?

 

[selrahc1992]

I'm not sure how accurate the reading of 50a is, how are you monitoring it?

You may have to do a shunt calibration as I think its only a 23A rated controller?

It's this
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/721-s12sn-1000w-40a-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller-ebike-kit.html?search_query=s12sn&results=1
How does one do a shunt calibration?
Strangely just occurred to me that simply upping to say 66v,if controller could deal with it,would up power

 

[Stalkingcat]

Arh ok, your's is a different model controller than the one I was looking at, so you could well be seeing those power levels.
66v would be pushing it to the limit and it could well blow.
Depending upon the battery you are using, 60V nominal would be the max that i'd try but may blow even then. Pushing the volts up above the limit, is a game of chance, you may or may not get lucky?

The shunt in the controller is used to accurately measure current, firstly for the controller to know what's going on, in order to do its thing and secondly, it can be used for accurate monitoring of power levels if set up properly.

I have no idea how accurate these 'all in' plug and play kits are set up, or what you are using to monitor?
If you are into accurate readings, then either buy something like a wattsup meter which you can use at 60V and below, or a Cycle Analyst device will tell you all you need to know but will need setting up.

I use a multi meter to measure the real amp draw to start with and from that info, its pretty simple to set up a C/A.

If you are using a kit monitor, then you could measure the no load amp draw using a multi meter and then compare it to what the kit monitor is saying. I'd be interested to know the results, as I doubt the factory calibrates each and every kit correctly?

If it all sounds a bit much, then don't worry about it as you're prob somewhere in the ball park figure.

 

[selrahc1992]

Arh ok, your's is a different model controller than the one I was looking at, so you could well be seeing those power levels.
66v would be pushing it to the limit and it could well blow.
Depending upon the battery you are using, 60V nominal would be the max that i'd try but may blow even then. Pushing the volts up above the limit, is a game of chance, you may or may not get lucky?

The shunt in the controller is used to accurately measure current, firstly for the controller to know what's going on, in order to do its thing and secondly, it can be used for accurate monitoring of power levels if set up properly.

I have no idea how accurate these 'all in' plug and play kits are set up, or what you are using to monitor?
If you are into accurate readings, then either buy something like a wattsup meter which you can use at 60V and below, or a Cycle Analyst device will tell you all you need to know but will need setting up.

I use a multi meter to measure the real amp draw to start with and from that info, its pretty simple to set up a C/A.

If you are using a kit monitor, then you could measure the no load amp draw using a multi meter and then compare it to what the kit monitor is saying. I'd be interested to know the results, as I doubt the factory calibrates each and every kit correctly?

If it all sounds a bit much, then don't worry about it as you're prob somewhere in the ball park figure.

Many thanks, I use lcd3 readout that gives power,but have cheap hobbyking Meyer like this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10080__Turnigy_130A_Watt_Meter_and_Power_Analyzer.html
Somewhere,am still finding feet in it all

 

[Stalkingcat]

Yep, that meter is the same as the Wattsup I mentioned and also the GT power one.
They will give an accurate reading as the shunt is somehow contained within the meter so is specific for it.

All these meters really do, is measure the voltage of the battery, then measure the amount of amps travelling through the shunt at any given moment during operation, x these two read outs together, which gives the watts being drawn from the battery.

The shunt resistance needs to be known by the meter, in order to give an accurate readout.

 

[selrahc1992]

Yep, that meter is the same as the Wattsup I mentioned and also the GT power one.
They will give an accurate reading as the shunt is somehow contained within the meter so is specific for it.

All these meters really do, is measure the voltage of the battery, then measure the amount of amps travelling through the shunt at any given moment during operation, x these two read outs together, which gives the watts being drawn from the battery.

The shunt resistance needs to be known by the meter, in order to give an accurate readout.

Many thanks, very helpful, sounds simple enough, but how does the meter know the shunt resistance?

 

[Stalkingcat]

Resistance can be measured by using the OHM function on a multimeter.
With your Turnigy watt meter, it's own shunt resistance will have already been factory calibrated, so no need to bother.

It's harder to measure the shunt resistance inside a motor controller, in order to then put that info into a Cycle analyst or other such device.

In order to get this figure in a round about way. most people use a multimeter with the probe in the 10A max current mode, then put the two probes in line with the battery positive cable and measure the no-load current draw of the motor spinning at full power whist somehow raised off the ground (no load). .

Then the cycle analyst's shunt value can be adjusted until the no-load current read out on the C/A matches that which the multimeter was showing.