Off-Road Mainly, Conversion Ideas

[Moto]

OK, so a 1000W direct drive is not really what I need, understood.

Thank you for the very detailed and helpful reply Woosh. So I am curious why you suggest hub drive rather than crank, for my hilly stuff? I would prefer a hub for simplicity and the freedom to retain my front gears, but do need something that will cope with a walking speed climb at times?

And you mention "noload speed at around 23-24mph" - what does that mean exactly? That the motor is unrestricted in some way?

-Steve

 

[topographer]

Kudos do some torquey MTBs with the BPM or TCM motors...and some cheapish end of line KTM/Bosch crank drive bikes: https://www.kudoscycles.com/

 

[Woosh]

So I am curious why you suggest hub drive rather than crank, for my hilly stuff?

I don't have any preference, I sell nearly as many CD bikes as hub bikes until the last 12 months where hub bike sale is ahead of CD bike sale. This said, it is worth to point out that CD bikes have additional risks: broken chain and damage caused to the derailleur if and when the chain comes off. If your chain breaks, you can't ride home on a CD bike. In your project, I thought all things equal, the rear hub conversion would look nicer.
For raw power, the Bafang BBS02B with 17AH battery kit is difficult to beat.

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/cart/#/product/uid-179-bbs02-25a-17ah/bbs02b-cd-kit-36v-25a-500w-with-17ah-hl-battery

And you mention "noload speed at around 23-24mph" - what does that mean exactly? That the motor is unrestricted in some way?

No load speed is the common measure of maximum possible assist speed, if the bike is derestricted. You derestrict the LCD, lift the motor wheel and throttle to the max. The LCD shows the noload speed. In practice, the maximum assist speed is about 1 to 2 mph lower, depending on the fitness of the rider.

 

[Moto]

OK... thanks for the reply. I think I am now perhaps more confused whether to go crank or hub....

Hub for road, crank for off-road I guess, just need to find a good compromise?