Can that one be considered as good choice loctite?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003ZUXQIA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
Nuts always getting loose
- Thread starter cwah
- Start date
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003ZUXQIA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
Can this one work?
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Products/80101400/Locking++Washer+NORDLOCK+.aspx?_country=3A6304BB-CC81-4ED5-9F63-1FF45FE1ABFA&gpc_origin=pla&gpc_feed_alias=uk&gpc_pid=80101400&gclid=CjwKEAiAs4qzBRD4l-2w7qOoqEMSJABauikXe14X_EZc0Q3EM86vWJr_e3gO8tJozB1iT6pqYmrJ0RoCcuLw_wcB
I have m14 nut
cwah
You could always make yourself a custom tab washer and lock the nut off to the flat on the shaft or nearby bit of frame.
You could always make yourself a custom tab washer and lock the nut off to the flat on the shaft or nearby bit of frame.
Make sure if you use choose the loctite solution to use the right kind...
https://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/LocktiteThreadlocking_Guide.pdf
271, Red: High strength threadlocker for larger diameter hardware.
262, Red: High strength threadlocker for for hardware smaller than that which uses 271 (more like heli parts). Either does a good job for our stuff, however. I see 271 most commonly in auto parts stores.
609, Green: Retaining compound, high strength, for mounting slip fit bearings to shafts. An appropriate product for tail boxes.
603, Green: Retaining compound, high strength, similar to 609 but good where the parts may be a little oily. Good for mounting oilite bushings in housings, BTW.
640: Green: Retaining compound, high strength. Similar to 609 and 603. Lacks the oil tolerance of 603. I use it where I might have trouble with adjacent bearing contamination with the product, such as start shaft bearing blocks, since it has a little greater viscosity than 603.
638, Green, rather thick: Ultra strong retaining compound for assemblies with a marked amount of slop in the fit, min 0.004". Don't try to use this stuff for our normal bearings on healthy shafts. It sets almost immediately in the tight gap, and you'll never have the chance to get the bearing into place.
290, Green: Wicking product for thread locking AFTER assembly. Medium strength, much stronger than 242 blue in my experience. Not the correct choice per loctite for bearing mounting.
242, 243 Blue: Classic medium strength threadlocker for most of our threadlocking applications. 243 is the oil tolerant version.
222MS, Purple: Low strength threadlocker for small diameter or otherwise delicate fasteners.
https://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/LocktiteThreadlocking_Guide.pdf
271, Red: High strength threadlocker for larger diameter hardware.
262, Red: High strength threadlocker for for hardware smaller than that which uses 271 (more like heli parts). Either does a good job for our stuff, however. I see 271 most commonly in auto parts stores.
609, Green: Retaining compound, high strength, for mounting slip fit bearings to shafts. An appropriate product for tail boxes.
603, Green: Retaining compound, high strength, similar to 609 but good where the parts may be a little oily. Good for mounting oilite bushings in housings, BTW.
640: Green: Retaining compound, high strength. Similar to 609 and 603. Lacks the oil tolerance of 603. I use it where I might have trouble with adjacent bearing contamination with the product, such as start shaft bearing blocks, since it has a little greater viscosity than 603.
638, Green, rather thick: Ultra strong retaining compound for assemblies with a marked amount of slop in the fit, min 0.004". Don't try to use this stuff for our normal bearings on healthy shafts. It sets almost immediately in the tight gap, and you'll never have the chance to get the bearing into place.
290, Green: Wicking product for thread locking AFTER assembly. Medium strength, much stronger than 242 blue in my experience. Not the correct choice per loctite for bearing mounting.
242, 243 Blue: Classic medium strength threadlocker for most of our threadlocking applications. 243 is the oil tolerant version.
222MS, Purple: Low strength threadlocker for small diameter or otherwise delicate fasteners.
Amazing the number of different solutions.....you could always go down to 250 watts and stop your machine shaking itself to bits.....ok,ignore that.
Another alternative would be to cross drill the nut and using stainless lockwire to prevent rotation..... it so happens that my parent company sells stainless lockwire on 0.25 kg bobbins,0.63 or 0.80 mm diameter,never miss a selling opportunity,hehe!!!!
KudosDave
Another alternative would be to cross drill the nut and using stainless lockwire to prevent rotation..... it so happens that my parent company sells stainless lockwire on 0.25 kg bobbins,0.63 or 0.80 mm diameter,never miss a selling opportunity,hehe!!!!
KudosDave
Rob....the problem is CWAH would have to carry spare split pins....also the usual problem of aligning the castelations with the x-hole and weakening the shaft with the x-drilling.
On the stub axle nuts of rally cars we delete the castle nuts and use the VW method,which has a lock bolt through flanks of the nut....it means you don't have to locate the x-pin hole,but is an expensive part and limited thread sizes.
KudosDave
Makes sense on a more extreme application such as a rally car.
As regards spare split pins, a castlellated nut can be used without one, although I was only posting in the spirit of other locking nuts, rather than a serious suggestion for the OP.
I've never liked locking goo on threads, same as I've never liked instant gasket or other sealants.
So my more serious suggestion for an ebike motor would be Nyloc.
Or possibly Philadas, but they graunch the threads more than Nylocs.
So, has nobody else here tried Nord Lock washers before? I can't imagine that you'd still be suggesting Nyloc nuts + threadlock if you had. I'm not saying that Nylocs and threadlock doesn't work for you, it just didn't for me running 3kW with frequent use of regen. They're such a simple solution to the problem and are reusable too.
For anyone still interested, here is a demonstration video of them in action:
For anyone still interested, here is a demonstration video of them in action:
To be honest never used them,usually the Motorsport world is keen on new solutions. Am very interested in them.....are there any downsides? ....are they available in most thread sizes? What is their primary application? ....are they expensive?
I viewed the video,very well presented.
KudosDave
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A product that ever home should have.
I get through loads of it.Back in my old GP250 bike racing days, I used to make the fitting of lock wire a work of art. It also used to surprise me just how many people would get it wrong on opposing nut heads.
Eddie....you may be amused to know that I am the biggest UK seller of lock wire pliers,sold hundreds this year.....I exhibited at the recent NEC classic show and had to explain many times how they work.A product that ever home should have.
Back in my old GP250 bike racing days, I used to make the fitting of lock wire a work of art. It also used to surprise me just how many people would get it wrong on opposing nut heads.
The spinning lock wire pliers produce the neat twist of the wire ends so attractive on vintage cars and motorcycles.
It was amusing when customers picked them up,puzzled but didn't want to admit they didn't understand their operation.
KudosDave
I must confess that I have two pairs of lockwire pliers of different length.
My Cleco pliers are another tool that have many baffled.
My Cleco pliers are another tool that have many baffled.
War story coming on... The RAF used to teach its aircraft electronic technicians (radar etc) at a place called RAF Locking near Weston Super Mare. One of their mechanical skills was the teaching of wire locking techniques. In the late 70's I was a line engineer for Jaguar aircraft at Lossiemouth. All of a sudden we started to have a series of inflight radio failures, and all the fuss that creates with wing rocking flypast and green flares to give permission to land. Every time we checked the radio it was perfectly serviceable on the test bench and on fitting to the aircraft. But within a flight or two it would fail. The radio unit was on a sliding rack held by wire locked finger nuts. Eventually we found out that RAF Locking had ceased teaching wire locking as a budget saver. So our new radio techs had never seen a wire locked mounting frame before. They were wire locking the nuts but not understanding the mechanical logic, they were quite often wire locking with the tension undoing the nut, not re-enforcing its tightness. A few lessons with our ancient airframe chief technician soon made them understand the logic and theory of the technique and the problems went away. After complaints from our CO, Locking restarted the necessary training. Wire locking is not a simple as it first appears!
Nord Lock washers are intended to prevent bolt loosening where vibration or movement occurs to the fastened material. They are available in a wide range of sizes and a number of different platings. The only downsides I've found so far is that they are a little thicker than regular washers (not usually an issue) and they are quite costly for washers. IMO though, they're still cheap for what they achieve.
The technique...something about teaching how to suck eggs!
Cut the wire ends to equal length,grip the wire ends in the plier nose,lock using the slider,pull the twister (like a reverse of the kids spinning toy) until the wire swirls lock against the gaiter or tube,unlock the slider,use the cutters to trim the ends equal length....looks smart when done properly.
You will be amazed how many just cannot get the knack.
I think Pedelec members should be complimented on keeping answers to 'Cwah's loose nuts problem' both clean and informative,hehe
KudosDave
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