Novice queries

[TomsDad]

Hi everyone

I am looking to buy an electric assisted bike but need help to wade through the marketing hype and specifications.

1. Can a rear wheel with hub enclosed gears also incorporate the motor?

2. What are the disadvantages of a front wheel mounted motor?

3. Which battery performs best with infrequent/irregular use and charging?
Note: Hill climbing capability is more important to me than speed.

4. Is it advisable to purchase a second battery for instant swap needs?
(I remember my first cordless drill and waiting to re-charge during a job)

Any help or advice on these matters will be gratefully recieved and hopefully eliminate some of the models on my very long shortlist (if that makes sense).


Thanks in anticipation

 

[flecc]

Hi Tom's Dad, welcome to the forum. In answer to your questions:

1) Only the SRAM Sparc rear hub motor has an integrated hub gear, their P5 5 speed unit. The motor doesn't drive through those gears though, in fact it has twin motors driving the hub directly internally via two short belts and gears. The 5 speed hub gear just works with a R/H twistgrip change as usual. It's not a particularly powerful motor and normally comes as a kit, but one folding bike, the Dahon Roo is fitted with one as standard and I think it's about £1300.

2) The main disadvantage of a front hub motor is the high unsprung weight, but suspension forks tame that enough for it not to be noticed. There's also the fact that a long cable has to flex at the fork junction, but that doesn't normally give trouble. The main advantages are two wheel traction, motor front, pedal rear, so good in poor conditions, and a fuller choice of cycle gear systems.

3) Probably NiMh on all those counts. Lithium batteries need to be frequently charged with every use, and are best not run to empty for a good life. They can also tire when under sustained high loadings as when hill climbing and cause a safety cut out. NiMh just have to be charged at least once every two months, and it also helps them if they are fairly fully discharged once in a while. They don't suffer cut out problems.

4) A second NiMh is fine, but Lithium batteries age at the same rate whether used or not, so two isn't a good idea for they'll only last as long as one. One of each type is a good idea, Lithium for regular use and it's slight performance advantage, and an NiMh for backup when you can't wait for a recharge.

I hope that's some help to you.
.

 

[TomsDad]

Thanks flecc

Very useful info. It seems my ideal bike doesn't exist and a compromise will have to be made. Not sure which to sacrifice yet though!

Quick release/removal front wheel or enclosed gear options?

I'm sure I'll have further questions as I refine my search.

Thanks once again

 

[flecc]

If you fit a very puncture proof quality tyre like the Schwalbe Marathon Plus to the front wheel at the outset, a quick release becomes unimportant.

My first one of these fitted to a Lafree Twist four years ago is yet to puncture, and no punctures on the four fitted to my other two bikes either.

The only downside is the recommended price of around £25 each tyre, but there are often some suppliers giving a discount, one at £19.99 currently.
.

 

[hobo1]

If you fit a very puncture proof quality tyre like the Schwalbe Marathon Plus to the front wheel at the outset, a quick release becomes unimportant.

My first one of these fitted to a Lafree Twist four years ago is yet to puncture, and no punctures on the four fitted to my other two bikes either.

The only downside is the recommended price of around £25 each tyre, but there are often some suppliers giving a discount, one at £19.99 currently.
.

Marathon Plus tyres special offer £17.99 @ All Terrain Cycles UK: MTB and Road Bikes + £3.99 delivery. Just bought two. I think I will have to get some good tyre levers: According to the forum they are a bit tricky to put on.

David.

 

[flecc]

That's the best one yet David, thanks.

They're not too tight, but the stiffness makes the last stage tricky, one part of the last side tries to slip back off as the other is pulled on. As I approach the valve area with one part pulled on, I put a loop of pvc tape around that and the rim so it stays in place as I pull the last bit on at the valve area on. Anything that holds that last stage in place will do.
.

 

[hobo1]

Thanks very much for that tip, most welcome. All Terrain Cycles are only a couple of miles from me; so I rang them up to see if the tyres were the same price in the shop,so I could collect, but they were dearer: internet price only. So mine are coming through the post.

David.

 

[flecc]

I rang them up to see if the tyres were the same price in the shop,so I could collect, but they were dearer: internet price only. So mine are coming through the post.

David.

Yes, I've met that barmy situation a few times.
.

 

[nigel]

Nigel

I would reccomend MP+ everytime it is money well spent they have been on my torq for 8 months with no problems however i did find it quite tricky to fit tyres and needed 2 pairs of hands to compleate job maybe it was a case of to much effort and no thought on my part PS i still cant find a throttle grip with a 28mm diameter for a replacement have tryed ebay on the motorbike section no joy yet so at the moment its a tape job

 

[flecc]

One thing you could use on the twistgrip as a temporary measure Nigel, is a length of old cycle inner tube. The sort of size that is originally on the Torq would do the job, and you might be able to slide on two layers to make it a bit thicker.

If you have any old inner tubes, one which measures around 37 to 42 mm across when flat should do the job ok.
.

 

[nigel]

Nigel

Hi flecc thanks for that ideal i am sure there is a way around this problem at least i can still use the bike ok so it is not to bad.

 

[coops]

Hi Nigel,

Rather than look for 28mm inner diameter grips I think you're more likely to succeed in finding "stretchy" rubbery grips of a smaller diameter (7/8" or 22mm for bikes and also a 1" diameter on some motorbikes seem to be the standard sizes) which may be stretched to fit over the bare throttle sleeve: for now I'm using a short section cut from some old 22mm rubber grips off my MTB, which just stretch enough to fit and are ok till I find something better .

The original grip covering is quite thin, so I imagine an old inner tube of suitable width would work quite well at least temporarily, as flecc said .

I've also got the m+ on my Torq now, and very good so far .

Stuart.

 

[TomsDad]

If you fit a very puncture proof quality tyre like the Schwalbe Marathon Plus to the front wheel at the outset, a quick release becomes unimportant.

.

Thanks for the advice flecc, but quick release front is desirable for transportation purposes within the car. I live on the south coast which eliminates half my potential travel radius and it gets boring using the same few roads. (East, West and very little North within a 20-30 mile round trip).

Idea being is to drive out to various locations with partner and two bikes upright in rear footwell, hence the need to remove front wheels.

Puncture proof details taken on board though for future reference.

Thanks

 

[flecc]

I live on the south coast which eliminates half my potential travel radius and it gets boring using the same few roads. (East, West and very little North within a 20-30 mile round trip).

Having lived at Bournemouth many years ago, I know what you mean, and living on the edge of South London now has much the same disadvantage.
.