non-folder to fit in the boot?

Still researching which ebike to get....

I'm looking for an ebike of shortish overall length (about 175cm max), so with front-wheel removed, it will fit in the car. For lots of reasons, I don't want to have to use a bike-rack.

Roughest riding I do is forest trails (not serious mountain biking). I think 26" wheels is about the smallest I'd tolerate.

So far, most bikes I've looked at are a touch too long.

And of course, I don't want to spend too much!

Any ideas appreciated (except for "get a bigger car!")?

I have super mini and was transporting two bikes with front wheels removed. I prefer rack though. Weight might be bigger problem than size.

I have super mini and was transporting two bikes with front wheels removed. I prefer rack though. Weight might be bigger problem than size.

Yes weight could be an issue. I currently manage to get our old all-steel MTBs (18kg) in and out of the car OK and I'm hoping that with battery removed an ebike shouldn't be too much heavier. But most ebikes I've looked at seem to be longer wheelbase and wouldn't fit. I might have to just get a rack though rather than compromise on the bike.

If I had shorter legs I could move the driver's seat forward and fit a bigger bike.

Bike will be 2-5kg heavier. Pain in lower back to put it in and to take it out, but it can be done.

But most ebikes I've looked at seem to be longer wheelbase and wouldn't fit.

 

Are you looking at ready made bikes or want to convert your Apollo?

Edited January 10, 20242 yr by Az.

Yes... but I haven't discounted doing a conversion.

Any advice on kit suppliers for reliable parts and good after-sales support?

Yes... but I haven't discounted doing a conversion.

 

OK... when I said your bike will be 5kg heavier I meant your Apollo after conversion.

 

Any advice on kit suppliers for reliable parts and good after-sales support?

 

Woosh

Many thanks Az. .... will have a look at Woosh

OK... when I said your bike will be 5kg heavier I meant your Apollo after conversion.

 

 

 

Woosh

... and if I did a conversion I'll finally retire the Apollo and get a suitable donor-bike!

... and if I did a conversion I'll finally retire the Apollo and get a suitable donor-bike!

 

Great.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...I will tell you a secret: As forum member you are entitled to get TSDZ8 motor at discounted price. It is theoretically a great motor:

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/woosh-starts-shipping-tongsheng-tsdz8-with-250w-label.46570/

 

I just got mine delivered few minutes ago.

https://theradavist.com/isaos-larkin-24-mini-touring-mtb/

 

Edited January 10, 20242 yr by lenny

Any advice on kit suppliers for reliable parts and good after-sales support?

https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=site%3Apedelecs.co.uk+topbikekit

I suggest the EcoRider City Cruiser It's got a shorter overall length, around 170cm, so it should fit in your car, and It's got 26" wheels too, which should handle those forest trails just fine. The best part, It's budget-friendly.

I suggest the EcoRider City Cruiser It's got a shorter overall length, around 170cm, so it should fit in your car, and It's got 26" wheels too, which should handle those forest trails just fine. The best part, It's budget-friendly.

Sounds promising... do you have a link?

When I Google "EcoRider City Cruiser" I just get quad-bikes and scooters.

Thanks!

Sounds promising... do you have a link?

 

I couldn't find it either, but while looking for it I found this:

 

https://www.ecoriderscooter.com/segway-police/ecorider-e8-segway-police-scooter-for-patrol.html

 

I think I want it.

OK folks, thanks very much for all the tips and advice. Here's what I'm thinking of doing...

Get a new lightweight alloy-framed 26" MTB-style of reasonable quality:

e.g. Claud Butler Edge HT (14kg)

Electrify with a Woosh conversion kit: front wheel drive, 20AH downtube battery.

So, with front-wheel and battery removed, weight for manhandling in and out of car is minimised.

And that size battery should give me as much range as I'll ever want.

Pros & cons with FWD, but for my intended usage (country-lanes & forest-trails), I'm thinking it will be OK.

And the installation should be simple.

 

What do you reckon?

20AH downtube battery.

Assuming this is a 48V kit, I doubt you'd need such a large capacity battery. How far do you intend to go on one charge and will you put work into the pedals or not?

Assuming this is a 48V kit, I doubt you'd need such a large capacity battery. How far do you intend to go on one charge and will you put work into the pedals or not?

36V kit (so 720WH battery). Will not be using it for commuting but for days out leisure cycling around the hilly lanes and forest tracks of Wales. Agree, battery is probably more than I'll ever need but my thought is that's better than worrying about running out of juice?

better than worrying about running out of juice?

Yes you are right it is good to go for more capacity than you'll need mainly as this extends the battery's life as it stays in the 100-50% range all the time. If you don't mind spending the extra than it's no problem getting the bigger battery, slightly more weight but not noticeable. But I think a 13-17ah battery will give no discernible difference to you and will be a big cost saving.

 

If on the rare occasion you want to do a massive 50 mile tour, it will still be possible you just have to turn down the assist! Basically, it's more sensible to determine your average watt hour usage in one outing and oversizing that, rather than your maximum possible journey ever and oversizing still because soon as you start putting work in the pedals the range goes off the charts.

 

So, with front-wheel and battery removed

On this note, a front wheel hub motor is harder to remove than a quick release mtb front wheel. I don't know if you need a torque arm for 250w on the front but if you do it will become a hassle taking on and off. Simple with tools of course!

Thanks... I was assuming that to remove the front wheel I'll just need to release the V-brakes, and then undo the nuts on the axle (I'm used to doing this with my old MTB today) and then just disconnect the cable to the motor. But I'll have a good look at the fitting instructions to see if I've missed anything.

 

I'll also have a think about battery size.

Conversion? Great. Best way to get good value for money e-bike.

 

Front wheel conversion on MTB? Please don't. Trust me, I have one. Rear hub or best mid drive. Rear hub should be enough for your needs, but your appetite will grow. Do it once, do it right.

I think the hilly tracks of wales are a bit of a push with a 250w 36v front wheel.

 

I'd suggest a rear wheel or a crank drive. The DWG22C has much more torque and gets me up any hill here in the Peaks. Front wheel can be quick release then.

 

The other thing I like about my hub gear is the triple chainset. Yes, you don't need a triple with a crank drive, but I like to switch it off sometimes and have a normal bike. When I have flattened my battery in the past I've been glad I had a triple.

BTW Claud Butler Edge HT is a horrible choice. Still a bit better than Apollo LOL

 

It is not a MTB

Thanks... I was assuming that to remove the front wheel I'll just need to release the V-brakes, and then undo the nuts on the axle (I'm used to doing this with my old MTB today) and then just disconnect the cable to the motor. But I'll have a good look at the fitting instructions to see if I've missed anything.

 

I'll also have a think about battery size.

Yes this is the case assuming no torque arms. And a quick google suggests you won't need them with 250w but make sure you do the nuts up tight.

Conversion? Great. Best way to get good value for money e-bike.

 

Front wheel conversion on MTB? Please don't. Trust me, I have one. Rear hub or best mid drive. Rear hub should be enough for your needs, but your appetite will grow. Do it once, do it right.

To me, it didn't sound like he would be doing hardcore DH MTB so going along a muddy or gravelly path with 250w won't make much difference front or rear.

Yes you are right it is good to go for more capacity than you'll need mainly as this extends the battery's life as it stays in the 100-50% range all the time. If you don't mind spending the extra than it's no problem getting the bigger battery, slightly more weight but not noticeable. But I think a 13-17ah battery will give no discernible difference to you and will be a big cost saving.

 

If on the rare occasion you want to do a massive 50 mile tour, it will still be possible you just have to turn down the assist! Basically, it's more sensible to determine your average watt hour usage in one outing and oversizing that, rather than your maximum possible journey ever and oversizing still because soon as you start putting work in the pedals the range goes off the charts.

 

 

On this note, a front wheel hub motor is harder to remove than a quick release mtb front wheel. I don't know if you need a torque arm for 250w on the front but if you do it will become a hassle taking on and off. Simple with tools of course!

ah... didn't know what torque-arms were until you tipped me off!

Now I'm better educated, but it appears that 250W motors are so puny that they shouldn't cause a problem with

Conversion? Great. Best way to get good value for money e-bike.

 

Front wheel conversion on MTB? Please don't. Trust me, I have one. Rear hub or best mid drive. Rear hub should be enough for your needs, but your appetite will grow. Do it once, do it right.

Not doubting your advice Az, but wondering what are the specific problems with FWD that you've experienced?