No connector between wheel motor and controller

[JimN]

I am really happy with my almost two year old assembly, now running well and pulling various child trailers around, after very helpful advice from this forum https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/newbie-query.35675/
But the first front wheel puncture since then stranded child, and me, a fair way away, and resulted in a bit of a drama. And this was purely because, although I had all the stuff to fix the puncture, I didn't account for the now impossible wheel removal ... purely as there is no electrical connector that I have seen on other similar set-ups (image attached)
Is fixing a connector easy to do? And, if so, where would I get a connector suitable for all the wires that are presumably inside?
Jim

 

[sjpt]

Bad luck.

Not a full solution or an answer to your question, but one thing worth considering is Gaadi inner tubes.
If you are happy to sacrifice the current inner when the time comes no need to change anything now, just carry Gaadi spares.

 

[cyclebuddy]

For the majority of punctures, you don't need to remove the wheel - front or back. Once you've located the puncture, you only need to remove the part of the tyre from the rim where the puncture actually is, and even then just enough of one side to slide out the part of inner tube that needs fixing.

Finding a puddle to spin the wheel in is a good quick way to isolate exactly where the leak is.

 

[JimN]

Once you've located the puncture

Finding a puddle to spin the wheel in is a good quick way to isolate exactly where the leak is.

A puddle deep enough to locate a puncture means a rainy day and my grandchildren in the trailer don't mix well with rain. That and a heavy, unwieldy bike is likely to mean a phone for help. Now a sunny day, a removable wheel, and a relaxed puncture repair is a different matter!

 

[matthewslack]

Bad luck.

Not a full solution or an answer to your question, but one thing worth considering is Gaadi inner tubes.
If you are happy to sacrifice the current inner when the time comes no need to change anything now, just carry Gaadi spares.

Never seen those before. What a clever idea!

 

[Nealh]

I ride with Gaadi tubes fitted all the time.

 

[Nealh]

I am really happy with my almost two year old assembly, now running well and pulling various child trailers around, after very helpful advice from this forum https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/newbie-query.35675/
But the first front wheel puncture since then stranded child, and me, a fair way away, and resulted in a bit of a drama. And this was purely because, although I had all the stuff to fix the puncture, I didn't account for the now impossible wheel removal ... purely as there is no electrical connector that I have seen on other similar set-ups (image attached)
Is fixing a connector easy to do? And, if so, where would I get a connector suitable for all the wires that are presumably inside?
Jim

Btw I know you say you don't ride in the rain, but the motor wheel is fitted incorrectly and any moisture can work it's way easily in to the hub and rust it solid.
The motor cable needs to exit south from below the drop out and then the cable forms a drip loop as it turns north.

 

[Nealh]

As to the Q of adding a connector then tbh no not worth the hassle.

 

[slowcoach]

Agree about incorrect fitting of motor.
It looks as though there is some slack in the cable, is it not sufficient to allow careful removal of the wheel? Obviously, it will have to stay very close to the front fork, but still allow room to replace a tyre or tube.

When we first got our Raliegh Motus bikes, my wife got a puncture in the first week. That was when I discovered they cme fitted with Gaadi tubes. Makes life so much easier.

My original Ezee sprint had this problem of no connector. Fortunately when the frame was replaced (under warranty) the new one had a junction box strapped to the fork.

 

[Sturmey]

Hi. There is perhaps a second reason for fitting the motors the right way around. On many motors, the hall sensors pcb is designed to be at the cooler bottom of the motor. When motor is reversed, the hall sensors end up on top which is hotter.
Anyhow, I often have changed tyres and regular tubes without disconnecting the wiring.
1 Turn bike upside down on something suitable/soft (without damaging displays etc). Unhook v brakes.
2 Deflate tyre, dismount /half remove tyre from rim.(from side without the motor cable)
3 Pull out tube from tyre.
4 Loosen nuts, lift wheel up about 2 inches from dropouts and pull out old tube from side without the cable. Drop in new tube loop (over the axle).
5 Put back wheel and tighten nuts.
6 Fit tube and tyre in usual way( as when wheel is on bike).
Tyre can be changed in this way also.
Its easier (more slack) if cable is facing downwards with a drip loop.

 

[Nealh]

The paramount reason for having the wire exiting south or downwards is as already explained and that is water ingress, it will track in quite readily and the rusting leading to seizing up and failure. Over the years we have seen a few pics of hubs form water ingress and it creates a lot of work if one tries to clean them up.

 

[JimN]

Thanks all. I haven't clocked Gaadi tubes either - brilliant.
Thanks too for the motor tip - I have been out to the garage this morning and turned it round. Interestingly, it came with the dropout nuts indicating the way I put it in .... to turn it round I had to completely remove the nuts (easy on the non- wired side, a bit of a tight fit on the wired side but just about OK) - so it now has the drip loop etc. However, all the cabling slack it ever had has gone so I will have to accept that any future work along these line will involve removing the cable ties.
I note that it is still the same set-up, even showing the dropout nut the "wrong way" round and no connector https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353156646538?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAiAyPyQBhB6EiwAFUuakt1UIYb6ckaDO6lA3AnBgw0mw9BbkjIotiOYJUI18iEVllVYsmlrJBoC22AQAvD_BwE .... but has doubled in price!