Next conversion: Motor and controller choice...

[Deleted member 4366]

It doesn't matter any more as to the how, just that it works.. lol, as I found on my KU63 SL works fine.

Can you make it a bit clearer how you coonnected it, Dave.
IIUC Red to throttle red, black to throttle black, signal wiire to yellow signal wire of the brake low voltage connector (blue and yellow).
The signal is high until you operate the brake, when it goes low.

 

[cwah]

bmsbattery and greenbike kit are the same company.

They share the same customer database. If they have your name in one company, they'll also have yours in the other one.

 

[Old_Dave]

Can you make it a bit clearer how you coonnected it, Dave

Yep

The signal is high until you operate the brake, when it goes low.

Yep..

I thought I had already posted the info, but it may of got lost in between other stuff.

Ok.. Using KU65 (which has its brake connector connected to SL by default)

Red is of course + ve and I stole that from the throttle + (for both front and rear brake sensors), but any of the controller 5v outputs would serve just as well.

Yellows are connected to the controller brake connector black which is -ve

Blue is the signal.... now these can be connected together for connection to the controller yellow brake connector wire, the down side of this is that both little leds will light when either brake sensor is activated.. its no biggie but will slow things down a bit if any fault finding is ever required.. soooo

Adding a diode to each sensor blue wire before joining them both together will provide the separation of the leds, I used 'BAT85' for no better reason than I already had some, lol

The Diodes cathode (marked by a line on the diode) should be towards the sensor

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks for making it clea. I just wanted to confirm and make it easier for other people who want to use these brake sensors.

 

[Ajax]

Are you saying your choice came down to a $4 item... what about import duty on these purchases?
Also, how much will it cost to have the wheel made?

There again you could opt for a uk source with delivery in a reasonable time frame.
eg 36V 500W E-Bike Electric Bicycle Rear Wheel Motor Conversion Kit DIY Cycling | eBay

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Are you saying your choice came down to a $4 item... what about import duty on these purchases?

Duty is not an exact science. You nearly always get caught with batteries - normally about £20 total. If you order a kit with a battery, it's £20 - £30. For a kit on its own with no battery, you normally don't have to pay anything. The same with single motors and other small items like controllers.

 

[Old_Dave]

Its not the duty thats an issue

Its the postage from places like BMS / Greenbike that spoils the purchase... unless of course its a big order, then it doesn't seem so bad.

Any one know of any ebike parts supplier where prices of both parts and the postage are good ?

 

[Ajax]

Now this looks interesting, although i'd like the option to change the crank if that was available. I'm not sure why you'd need a new controller, as this sensor would surely be a direct replacement for the pedlec sensor.


EBike Crank Torque Sensor - BMSBATTERY


As an extra thought, if you had a 250w 36v, and wanted/needed more torque for hills etc, could you simply upgrade the wheel with a 500w 36v, or would you need whatever controller came with the new wheel?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The pedal sensors give out pulses, while that torque sensor would give a continuously varying output. The controller needs the right algorithm in it to convert that to a steady throttle signal.

If you want more torque, you can get it from a more powerful motor, which will generally need more current, so you need a more powerful controller to go with it. You also need to be mindful of the safe current limit of the battery. No point in upgrading motor and controller if the battery can't take it, and it tends to be the battery which limits what you want.