Newbie: Hybrid/1000w motor, 48V Lipo 10ah pack

[awol]

Doing me best to stay with you!! Am I off-beam to think that my existing 48v charger would charge such a 13s pack?

P

No, you would need something like this and charge them in parallel .
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__45910__HobbyKing_8482_ECO8_150W_7A_8S_Bal_Dis_Cyc_Charger_w_acc_UK_Warehouse_.html

 

[Pedronomix]

No, you would need something like this and charge them in parallel .
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__45910__HobbyKing_8482_ECO8_150W_7A_8S_Bal_Dis_Cyc_Charger_w_acc_UK_Warehouse_.html

I intend to wire these piggyback packs in series and then piggyback them to the main pack in parallel. Suggested charger would then need to charge eack piggyback unit sperately! or am I wrong? P

 

[Pedronomix]

shouldn't be better to have a rear 26" motor wheel and keep the front 700C wheel? The bike would look and handle better than the other way round.

Youb are hardly suggesting that I buy a second kit? If it proves an issue, I will just get the rear wheel re-rimmed to 26"!! A little more elegant solution I think!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Lipo cells have the same voltage as your present battery, but they don't have a BMS to balance them. Therefore you need to charge them with a charger that can balance them at the same time. It's dodgy charging them with a bulk charger like the one for your other battery unless you know that they stay balanced by themselves. Even then they still need to be checked and balanced fairly frequently.

 

[Pedronomix]

The light is starting to glow. I bought the wrong technology/spec (old) battery pack!
I will go with your suggestion d8veh to leave out the manual throttle and use max setting 4 for the pedal assist. Do I still need to have a cut-out switch?
if this proves good enough for my actual usage, happy days. If not I will add the piggyback cells with bms charging. Thanks for the education.
P

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If you can, install, a switch on at least one brake. You don't have to leave out the throttle. Just be careful when using it. You will soon know if it causes the battery to cut out.

 

[Pedronomix]

One is probably as good idea, so wll go with that. i have seen sone tidy reed switches online that should be easy to fit and neat. I will post up my progress and pics if anyone is interested.

 

[Pedronomix]

Kit and power pack have arrived and I have started assembly, bought a sturdy rear carrier and a top pannier bag to house battery. Mounted and nicely secure.

Issues:
1. Wheel rim does not run true (10mm run out!), not buckled.... I assume I can get the spokes/rim adjusted in a bike shop?
2. Insufficient clearance between motor hub and hydraulic disk caliper. Are disk spacers are available?
3. Specialized Front Fork: 700c.. As pointed out above, Drop outs are too small for larger diameter axle for safety and are too narrowly spaced to allow any washer on the insides of drop out (axle shoulder to shoulder takes up 100% of gap!). I will also fit 2 x torque arms. As I like the bike, I plan to get a steel fork for 26" moror kit with disk brake. Can anyone recommend something suitable?


Thanks

Pedro

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've not tried them:

http://www.amazon.com/250xTDLSx28-6x30-0-29-CANTI-CRN-AXLE-430mmSUSPN-CORRECTED/dp/B003Q3PAAI

 

[Pedronomix]

Thanks d8veh, I had hoped to find something this side of the pond!!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Which side of which pond are they? Yarmouth is the other side of the pond to Barmouth if you you go west.

 

[Pedronomix]

The Atlantic! Link is Amazon USA and I am in Ireland!

 

[Pedronomix]

In the end I went with new cromo rigid fork from on-one.co.uk with disk and canti mounts, a set of canti front brakes, retaining rear disk setup and TORQ multi angle torque arms. The wheel/hub assy is off being reset for out of true ( as delivered!). This also means I can run one kit supplied cable brake lever with a motor cut out and yet still have all the parts to put the bike back to spec if need be. I expect to be test riding at the weekend!