newbie help needed

Hi all, looking for some advice on what bike could be suitable on a commute to work for the next year as I have got a driving ban.

 

Im am a unfit, 6 ' 2", 21 stone lump who needs to commute to work on a 30 mile round trip.

 

Getting there will be a struggle for me although mainly down hill - the return on the other hand I will need a lot of help especially on the last few miles with a climb of 400m

 

I have looked at the Halfords Apollo phaze https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/electric-bikes/apollo-phaze-electric-mountain-bike-17-20-frames mainly down to cost and it seems to have a good warrenty but there is a guy selling a 2nd hand giant escape hybrid 1 near me for the same money obviously no warrenty

forget the bike in the link as only rated for 20 miles and doubt you will even get half of that range and it will just fall to bits with constant use.

 

this will just about do it but it is 3 times the price.

https://www.rutlandcycling.com/bikes/electric-bikes/cube-reaction-hybrid-pro-500-2019-electric-mountain-bike-black_462440?currency=GBP&chosenAttribute=23410117&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq97uBRCwARIsADTziyaYeSbHnu8s0KJzU06x7aNpJuec92hj_5pRz4Jkyed488zfEPLtd74aAsEDEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

You will be lucky to get a reliable bike for your weight, that range and a 400m climb for much under £1500. A Woosh Big Bear of some kind (http://wooshbikes.co.uk/cart/) is one possibility, around £1250 with a big battery. The Cube range soundwave mentions is good as well, but more expensive (the one he mentions at £1500 shows up as 'unavailable').

 

Will there be a chance to charge the battery at work? That would considerably help with the range issue.

 

You might be more comfortable on a low step if you are unfit and not used to cycling.

 

To get an idea of what range you may get with what size battery try the Bosch range assistant https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/service/range-assistant/ . Even if you don't use a Bosch powered bike it will give an idea of range for a given battery size and conditions, and show you the huge variation in range from optimal conditions and real conditions. It could easily be a factor of 3 for your situation ... eg if somebody quotes range up to xxx, assume xxx/3.

 

A legal pedalec is limited to 15mph assisted speed. You may find you get a bit more on slight downhills, but will need quite a bit of assist to get the 15mph on the flat and even with full assist you probably won't keep that up on an uphill. So allow for the fact that your commute will be 1 hour in and somewhat more back. You could go for an illegal dongled bike that goes faster, but (a) that will reduce your range and (b) in the unlikely event of being caught out on it the fact you already have a driving ban will be an extra issue.

Edited November 22, 20196 yr by sjpt

roads are a mix of very rough country and town roads so some cheap front suspension will be in order.

roads are a mix of very rough country and town roads so some cheap front suspension will be in order.

Yes, but not too cheap; otherwise (as soundwave mentioned about the Halfords bike), it will just fall to bits with constant use. You don't need top of the range either; again Big Bear suspension fork is a good compromise.

Hi, I will be able to charge the bike at work so a lower range bike would be ok

The Woosh camino looks good with a 50 mile range on a 15 Ah battery - 17 Ah are out of stock but would get that for the extra £50. Are these road legal in the UK with it not being a twist and go throttle

Camino says for riders 14+, up to 17 stone, 5ft8 and above

 

It might be suitable anyway. Contact Woosh and ask them. You will see from the forum that they have very good pre and after sales service; they don't want to force things on you just to get a sale, they prefer to have satisfied customers. I suspect they'll suggest the Big Bear.

 

It's the twist and go throttles that are technically not legal. The Camino (and most other Woosh?) throttles require some form of pedalling to let the throttle work which (I think) makes it legal; that is why they stress the NOT twist and go. Twist and go is legal (?) as long as it just works to 4mph or so, to help starting at junctions. I must admit that I am confused by throttle laws, so this may not be completely correct.

sorry I slightly over estimated the climb on the return its not 400m its actually only 140m LOL flatish for approx first 1/2 of route - I would imagine this will make a big difference on the battery drain

The Woosh Big Bear LST will suit you very well if you don't mind a stepthrough

The Big Bear one is really comforta le and should manage 30 miles easily as long as you don't derestrict it.

I dont fancy a step through , a bit old fashioned looking for my taste but beggars cant be choosers as Im a fat bugger

I dont fancy a step through , a bit old fashioned looking for my taste but beggars cant be choosers as Im a fat bugger

The stepthrough will be a lot more comfy and is less likely to get nicked. You have to see it as a tool, not a fashion accessory. When you've lost a few stone, you will be able to reassess which would be the best tool for the job. Take my advice and swallow your pride. At least you will be happy while riding to work.

sorry I slightly over estimated the climb on the return its not 400m its actually only 140m LOL flatish for approx first 1/2 of route - I would imagine this will make a big difference on the battery drain

Certainly helps a lot. I'd still suggest the Big Bear, but battery choice becomes less important, especially with a recharge at work. Whaatever, I hope you enjoy it so much you don't revert to car when the ban is over.

out of interest I have a good cannondale Contro 4 hybrid but with a lefty fork, what sort of price would I be looking at for a road legal rear wheel kit (700) with a 15ah battery.

and I also have an old trek 420 antelope hardtail with 26" wheels

you can fit a mid drive or a rear hub kit to your Contro4.

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/cart/#/product/uid-207-tsdz2-12ah/tsdz2-cd-kit-48v-12ah

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/cart/#/product/uid-178-bbs01-17ah/bbs01b-cd-kit-with-175ah-36v-hl-battery

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/cart/#/product/uid-177-xf08c-17ah/xf08c-rear-hub-kit-with-17ah-battery

what about the SWX02 48V rear wheel with 48V 12AH battery: £569

forget the bike in the link as only rated for 20 miles and doubt you will even get half of that range and it will just fall to bits with constant use.

 

I have one. It's actually very underrated. The build quality is surprisingly good, and componentry is very budget but name-brand so replacement parts are cheap and durable.

 

The range is possibly understated. I've had mine do 25 assisted miles and not be out of charge.

 

I would, however, also baulk at recommending it for this role. It would need charging at the 15 mile mid point pus the V brakes are OK for me at 12 stone, but adding another 9 stones of mass at the same speeds might be asking a bit much.

 

I'd opt for a Woosh Big Bear for the task as described.

I have one. It's actually very underrated. The build quality is surprisingly good, and componentry is very budget but name-brand so replacement parts are cheap and durable.

 

The range is possibly understated. I've had mine do 25 assisted miles and not be out of charge.

 

I would, however, also baulk at recommending it for this role. It would need charging at the 15 mile mid point pus the V brakes are OK for me at 12 stone, but adding another 9 stones of mass at the same speeds might be asking a bit much.

 

I'd opt for a Woosh Big Bear for the task as described.

at what assist level and did you have at and are there any hills to contend with

I have a trek with V brakes and they are plenty good enough at 15mph, in fact it locks out if applied to quickly in the wet so perhaps better tyres needed.

 

Can a cassette be fitted to a freewheel

Edited November 28, 20196 yr by janz70

at what assist level and did you have at and are there any hills to contend with

 

A mixture of all 3 available. 1 for shared paths with pedestrians, 2 mainly and 3 against headwinds. and up some inclines (I'd hesitate to call them hills.) We were travelling at Mrs Thirteen's pace too, so there is that to take into consideration.

 

I've also been guilty in the past of maybe underestimating both mine and Mrs Thirteen's bike-fitness, resulting in me recommending her Pendleton Somerby-E to someone who found theirs lacking on hills, whereas Mrs Thirteen doesn't.

 

Actually owning a Phaze-E, I can discount the fears that others have had regarding the fork and cycle parts . It won't "fall to bits with constant use." I've converted the cheapest in the Apollo range before, and the forks on the Phaze-E are a significant upgrade on those. They have cast-in lugs for cable ties on the lower leg, and obviously built to suit the e-bike's extra weight. Still a budget option, but more substantial than the picture painted on this thread.

 

The wheel build is equally robust. In short I'm impressed as regards what you get for £500. The V brakes suffer mainly from cheap outer cables having been used, resulting in a lot of compression under lever pressure. It does get better but changing the brake cables would improve it a lot.

 

Would I use it for my old 30 mile round trip commute? Absolutely, and with a charge up mid-way I would have confidence in it not letting me down, and with the stone-doorstep technology of the gear train, brakes etc. the ongoing replacement of parts would be a low cost exercise.

 

Would I recomend it to someone else, heavier, and possibly less fit for a similar length commute though? No, I'd stick by my first recomendation, the Woosh Big Bear.

Can a cassette be fitted to a freewheel

 

No, but have a look at how cheap a 6-speed screw on freewheel is.

 

Can a cassette be fitted to a freewheel

Do you understand the difference between a cassette and freewheel? It's very confusing because people don't use the correct terminology. The difference is the hub. There is a free-wheel hub with the threaded boss and the free-hub, which is a spline. The gears have to match the hub.

 

In the old days, all rear gear clusters were called cassettes, but now those in the know call free-hub gears cassettes and free-wheel gears freewheels.

 

When you fit a motor or any new wheel, you have the option to switch from one gear type to the other, but there are some limitations. Generally, free-wheel gears go up to 7 speeds and cassettes go higher. Your shifting system determines how many speeds you have, but even that can be changed fairly cheaply.

nice to hear somebody speak from real life experience

I was 21 stone at the start of September and I’m now 18. Still have 4st to go though. I had a Scott E Sub at that weight with an Active Line Bosch motor and it was absolutely fine. I have been a regular cyclist for a long while and only use the e bike for commuting. Unfortunately my e bike and myself were smashed up by a car 9 weeks ago. I’m back on the road now with a new Bergamont e horizon 7 and it’s brilliant. Just test ride a few and you’ll know what suits. Good luck.

I have been working on a Carrera Vengeance and a Carrera Vulcan over the past month - both are fairly solid bikes, and fitted with a rear hub motor with 36v/10ah battery should have the range you need. A quality ebike kit shouldn’t cost more than £200 and then another £200-ish for the battery. I have a Tiger Traditional and a Dawes Mojave in the shed at the moment - both step-throughs. I can fit either with a front wheel motor and rack-mounted battery (36v/12.5ah). I’ve not used this configuration yet, so I don’t know the range.

 

My opinion is start with a bike you would enjoy riding without the motor, and then add the motor for extra ooomph/range.