New Yose power 350 watt kit snags

[Petebike]

Hi all, new here - I'm diving headlong into the world of ebike conversion kits, have gone and bought the 350 watt 'Yose power' rear hub motor kit from ebikelife on ebay (the german-warehoused one), 'easy your life' - catchy.

I've installed the kit, but with quite a few snags, yet to get any life out of the motor though.

The story so far;
-Installed kit on bike, hub motor, battery wiring, but the brake cut-offs were not going to work on my bike so I stupidly cut the levers in half so I just had the switches, thinking I could just mount the on the handlebar as emergency stops.
Also, the crank puller destroyed the threads on my left hand crank so I couldn't install the PAS sensor. No problem I thought, I'll just use the throttle anyway. Connected the sensor but not attached to the crank.

Tried motor throttle - nothing happens.

I troubleshoot the battery with a voltmeter - seems to have charge, no problem there. But the voltage display on the screen is wrong... discovered the settings which control that, no problem.

Afterwards I realised the brake switches were sprung to 'open', not closed, so destroying the brake levers was not a good start as this meant the switches were always in cut-off.

I taped the switches closed then, to simulate 'brakes off', and tried throttle again - still nothing happens.

I then played with the controller settings, including the P+C-setting to make the throttle work from 0 forward speed. Tried throttle again, still nothing happens.

So, going into troubleshooting mode now, I take the throttle apart to see how that works, see whether there is a problem there - surprisingly simple... but in the process I destroy the throttle. Bugger.

So the new plan was - buy new throttle, buy new brake sensors, buy new PAS sensor, rebuild and try again.

I got another throttle which looks almost identical to my previous one, now installed (assuming it works), I got one of the Dillenger PAS sensors which install without removal of the crank, installed - light flashes when I rotate the pedals so that seems to work.

The brake cut-offs switches I bought were the MS-BK-1R sensors which mount directly on the cable.
The problem with these is that the connector was a three-pin male connector when I needed a female.

I cut the connectors off the old brake switches, stripped the wires, current-tested them to check which wire was which to match the connector pattern (wire colours differed...), soldered that up, and connected both sensors to my rear brake cable as the front did not have space.

'Done', I thought. But still no joy. Throttle does nothing.

I haven't actually tried riding the bike yet to test if a forward-speed signal is needed for the motor to work, but apart from that my theories are;

-The brake switches have always been the problem (I never tested the kit before I cut the switches out of the original brake levers, although I tried with the switches closed by hand)
- Having soldered up new brake switches maybe I connected the wires in the wrong pattern and the bike is permanently in cut-off.

Solution: bypass the switches so the brakes are always 'off'... but I don't have a circuit diagram to know which wires to connect?

-The controller itself has a fault which is preventing power from being sent to the motor. No way to test this, and the spare controllers available online seem to have different wiring from the one I have.

-The motor has a fault and is not driving because of a break in the windings?

-The controller settings are wrong, the sine-wave drive p & c settings are off... confirmed these with the dealer and they are apparently correct.

So my next steps in the plan are...
-Finish tidying up the wiring as-is, and go for a ride, see if I can get some life out of the motor.

-If still no joy, then go back to the brake cut-off switches and check my soldering pattern, or possibly figure out how to bypass them altogether.

-If still no joy, then the controller or motor must be at fault... and my patience is going to start to wear thin by this point! Might as well just buy another kit...

Any thoughts from my new ebike friends? Is there anything I've missed?
Thanks,
-Pete

 

[Woosh]

the brake sensors are usually active low, they stop the motor when the signal is shorted to the ground. A sensored brake lever can have yellow 3-pin (5V, signal, ground) or red 2-pin connector (signal and ground). For either type, don't plug them in when testing.

 

[Petebike]

Don't plug in the brake sensors while testing? So the motor should drive if they're not plugged in at all?

In which case I could just blank them off and save myself some hassle.

I will try again with them disconnected then - thanks

 

[Woosh]

If you have excellent brakes (like hydraulic brakes) and are not going to use the throttle, then the brake sensors may be omitted.

if you want to proceed step by step:

1) connect the battery and LCD, switch on, make sure LCD comes on
2) connect the throttle, make sure the throttle works
3) connect the brake levers, make sure the brake sensors work (skip if you don't need them)
4) connect the pedal sensor
5) tidy up the wiring

 

[Nealh]

Installation is easy/simple and should work straight out of the box, the system is pug and paly all with moulded julet connectors.
When it comes to it and there is no life, brake sensors are often No1 fault as long as the battery is switched on.
Don't fit any brake sensors and try the kit, if using the throttle I would still consider one brake cut off.

You can use a reed switch 2 wires with a magnet instead of hall 3 wires, with the reed omit connecting the 5v line.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You don't need brake sensors, so chuck them. For anybody else that wants to fit a kit, you should always start by connecting the motor, battery and display, then check that the display switches on. If it does, connect the throttle to see if the motor works. If it does, continue connecting the other devices and test after each one. Brakes should be connected last. If it doesn't work when you connect the throttle, sort that out before proceeding.

With this in mind, go back to just the throttle connected. IIRC, there are two settings for the throttle: P4=0 is zero start, which means normal throttle; P4=1 is non-zero start, when you have to pedal first. Set it to zero.

When you come to test the pedal sensor, you will need to set C1 to a new value, which I can't say what without knowing which PAS you have.

Note that when you buy a sensor from an alternative source, they can have the wrong connection sequence in the connector. That's very difficult to deal with if they have moulded connectors.

Before hacking or dismantling things, always ask first. It's pretty rare for there to ever be anything wrong with kits these days, but often there are settings that need sorting.

 

[footpump]

I have the exact same kit which I am fitting to kudos vita uno.
the kit comes with lcd3 display and kt-v12l sensor.
I have rear mech disk,front has been changed to hydraulic.
the rear brake shifter is combined with a 3 speed shifter for triple chainring.
I am awaiting separate shifter/handlebar grips and a few odds and sods.

I was going to fit one of the supplied cut off brakes.

however if as mentioned by d8veh above I don't need them?
what cuts the moter if I am using thumb throttle at 15mph or if I am in pas mode and have to stop a bit sharpish or is just ( releasing throttle or ceasing to peddle)

so p4 would be 0 what should I set c value to

fitting the disk roter to wheel I stripped one bolt thread and had to retap and fit new bolt. fitted new pads to rear mech, fitting rear wheel the disk roter was binding on the brake caliper ,I needed about 1-2 mm clearance.
but could not force the rear frame stays apart , as there pretty thick.

luckily I managed to unbolt disk brake caliper and move it outboard a tad.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The KT controllers have a very fast response, so the power stops as soon as you let go of the throttle or stop pedalling. That's why you don't need brake sensors.

On nearly every conversion that I've done, the brake disc would rub on the frame or the caliper adaptor. the solution is one extra 12mm washer on the axle, which also helps with the rim alignment.

 

[harrys]

I like brake cut-offs. The bike in my avatar has always an ON, three leve l PAS. A quarter turn of the pedals kicks in the motor, making a low speed maneuver like a tight u-turn tricky, unless I turn off the bike or lightly squeeze the brake. Other bikes, I can bump down to PAS 0, but still easier to have a cutoff.

Then there are throttle faults. I've never had one riding, but I have had one when testing a new motor on the bench.

I see how brake cutoffs can aggravate. One time I forgot to hook up the front disk cables after taking off the front wheel for transport. So I went to test the bike before riding, the brake lever was slack and kept the motor off. I was fiddling with the battery and connectors before I remembered the brakes.

 

[anotherkiwi]

I have the exact same kit which I am fitting to kudos vita uno.
the kit comes with lcd3 display and kt-v12l sensor.
I have rear mech disk,front has been changed to hydraulic.
the rear brake shifter is combined with a 3 speed shifter for triple chainring.
I am awaiting separate shifter/handlebar grips and a few odds and sods.

I was going to fit one of the supplied cut off brakes.

however if as mentioned by d8veh above I don't need them?
what cuts the moter if I am using thumb throttle at 15mph or if I am in pas mode and have to stop a bit sharpish or is just ( releasing throttle or ceasing to peddle)

so p4 would be 0 what should I set c value to

fitting the disk roter to wheel I stripped one bolt thread and had to retap and fit new bolt. fitted new pads to rear mech, fitting rear wheel the disk roter was binding on the brake caliper ,I needed about 1-2 mm clearance.
but could not force the rear frame stays apart , as there pretty thick.

luckily I managed to unbolt disk brake caliper and move it outboard a tad.

If the throttle gets stuck open a brake cutoff can come in handy... otherwise with the KT controller and a hub motor you don't need one (I had 3600 trouble free km with my first bike). Mid drives tend to have a bit more run on so my GSM has one of these on the rear:
https://bmsbattery.com/parts/459-hwbs-hidden-wire-brake-sensor-1pcs-parts.html

Or for ydraulic brakes:

http://www.pswpower.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2016-AN-J7FJ.1RVVR

 

[footpump]

thanks d8veh re info, did not think about the extra washer option.
I have a tdz2 cd moter on a subway one with thumb throttle,next to the throttle is a wireless gadget with a lever, which operates rear light with left/right directional arrows.

whilst pushing the bike on a narrow pavement next to a busy main road,
the gadget lever moved and pushed down the thumb throttle ,the bike reared up in the air and front wheel went into a hedge.
I had cut outs fitted, but it took a few seconds to figure out what happened.

 

[Petebike]

Thanks all for the comments. I can see now that I possibly went about things in the wrong order - I have learned though!

I'm the sort that prefers to try something independently before asking for help out of pride and pigheadedness, hence getting myself into a bit of a muddle and buying extra parts un-necessarily, but educating myself in the process.

Nevermind - it was still about a grand cheaper than the brand new ebike I was thinking about buying, and a lot more fun to put together.

For any would-be Yose kit installers reading this don't make the same mistake as me, say hello to the experts here first

Update on my progress:

I tried a test with and without the brake switches - nothing happened.

The next step was to try with some forward speed, so I set about tidying up the wires, cockpit and brake cables.

In the process of packing the cables away into the little Yose controller bag I then discovered I had bent two pins in the LCD-controller wiring loom.
I fixed those with a delicate technical bend, and opened up the socket holes a bit with a safety pin, plugged together and tested again : lo and behold the motor comes to life!

I then tried it again with my new soldered-up brake sensors. This was not a success - an interesting error message displays on the LCD screen, so I have disconnected and discarded those. No harm done to the controller it seems.

I took the bike out for its inaugural test flight - had an absolute blast. 25mph on the flat without any significant effort, and gradients significantly more enjoyable now.

I rode across the severn bridge and back (which is basically in my back garden), totaling about 8 miles in 20 minutes, managing 20mph uphill into the wind on the westbound run. It's like being 18 again! and this is only a 350 watt kit :0

I will post some pics of my build when I get a chance - absolutely hooked now though, I think I'll do my mountain bike next, not to mention the wife's bike - might be able to get her out riding with me once I've electrified her

Thanks again chaps!

 

[harrys]

whilst pushing the bike on a narrow pavement next to a busy main road, the gadget lever moved and pushed down the thumb throttle ,the bike reared up in the air and front wheel went into a hedge.

Ha. The walking wheelie. It happens to everyone eventually, if the bike has a throttle.

I was going to program my KT controller to allow throttle in PAS 0 until I remembered how I almost threw my bike on top of a car doing the above.

 

[Nealh]

I still like to have one brake cut off, as twice I have had a different throttle issue which needed the action of the brake to cut power. If not fitting a throttle then no cut outs needed.

 

[footpump]

hi all can someone post a pic of there bike if the controller with juillet cables
was used , I'm having a tough time trying to figure out where to run the cables
and best place to mount controller not sure the supplied bag will do the job.

ive got enough cable for a tandem

thank you

 

[PC2017]

In the process of packing the cables away into the little Yose controller bag I then discovered I had bent two pins in the LCD-controller wiring loom.
I fixed those with a delicate technical bend, and opened up the socket holes a bit with a safety pin, plugged together and tested again : lo and behold the motor comes to life!

Hi Petebike - broken pins - this happened to me on my YOSE 4to1 cable - get in touch with YOSE or the supplier you got it from and hopefully they will send you another, YOSE did send me one after a few emails and pictures I did have to jump through hoops but I think that was mainly the language barrier- I really think the cables are sub par my original kit is dilleneger and their 4 to 1 cable was much better, I can vouch that the dilleneger PAS should work with your kit, I do believe they have not upgraded it yet, mine did and I did not change any settings. Dillenger brake sensors will not work with the YOSE only because of the 4 to 1 cable however the Dilleneger 4 to 1 will work with the YOSE apart from the brakes but then you could buy the dilleneger brakes sensors I have used this set up and it worked well! If that make sense!

Oh just don't tell them you broke the pins because maybe just maybe it was not your fault lol, just tell them the pins have fallen out!

I got this PAS from banggood and it works with the dillenger kit I have yet to test it on the YOSE however I did notice it was an nightmare to fit even using a 12 magnet disk (dilleneger) and it also activated when pedalling backwards but this was a quick test, oh and I had to wire up a julet connector as it comes with a JST SM 3pin easy to do I just wired up a julet to a JST and connected via the JST

https://www.banggood.com/E-bike-Scooter-Pedal-Assist-Power-Sensor-5-magnet-Disk-Type-PAS-System-p-1032853.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN