New to electric bikes - advice

[eric363]

I’m new to electric bikes but have managed to pick up a :
AKM21041584021 – 95 RS F250 3626 - 26in wheel for my bike.
These days it is not so much as connecting power to the wheel but there are a plethora of control systems of all sizes and they all function differently !
I have found the ‘pedelecs’ forum very helpful in furthering my knowledge but I would ask for suggestions as to what I need to get this AKM wheel going on my bike.
I’ve had a meter on the circuits and all seem functional.
Reading discussions on the website the KT controller is popular if its suitable for the AWM -
Which controller would suit my wheel ?
What other matching bits would I need ?

Item	Model	Source
Controller
Break lever
Lights
Speed sensor
battery
Control display
On-Off switch
Throttle
-
-

All help appreciated to save my energy in pedalling.

 

[Nealh]

AKM 95 is an unusual motor not often seen , it certainly afaik only an OEM supplied model.
It is rated at the rpm for 36v , what that rpm is we can only guess.
Being a front hub motor about 201 - 260rpm for 27/32kmh ,it is 250w rated.
42 N.m max rating and approx.2.8kg.

 

[Nealh]

Control kit wise then YES, a KT system is by far the best affordable kit to use .
Controllers are dual voltage so opt for 36/48v at 17 or 20a rating, best LCD to use is the LCD3 though it is a bit large. There are a dozen KT lcd's to pick from so down to preference

 

[Nealh]

I’m new to electric bikes but have managed to pick up a :
AKM21041584021 – 95 RS F250 3626 - 26in wheel for my bike.
These days it is not so much as connecting power to the wheel but there are a plethora of control systems of all sizes and they all function differently !
I have found the ‘pedelecs’ forum very helpful in furthering my knowledge but I would ask for suggestions as to what I need to get this AKM wheel going on my bike.
I’ve had a meter on the circuits and all seem functional.
Reading discussions on the website the KT controller is popular if its suitable for the AWM -
Which controller would suit my wheel ?
What other matching bits would I need ?

Item	Model	Source
Controller	36/48v 17- 20a	Aliexp or topbikekit.
Break lever	Not needed unless throttle employed
Lights	use usb ones
Speed sensor	depends on Bottom bracket type
battery	any 36v one , depends on usage but typcally 15ah ish.
Control display	LCD3 imv.
On-Off switch	Battery may have one and all KT lcd have one.
Throttle	IMV they aren't necessary, otherwise select with the kit.
-
-

All help appreciated to save my energy in pedalling.

 

[eric363]

Thanks Nealh for the very helpful advice - you can't beat experience because suppliers do not provide much information.
Just one point I've noticed. Controllers are described as Sine wave, Square wave and some are marked
Sine/Square wave. Which would be applicable to AKM21041584021 ?
Thanks for your help, Eric (soon to be electrified)

 

[Nealh]

Sine wave means a quieter electrical system vs square wave, the former smooths out the frequency signal fo better efficency.

 

[Bobbo1260]

Don't know if this helps but the number on my Yosepower front wheel hub is AKM21053120066 95 RS.F250-3626 so perhaps the controller for the front wheel kit it came with would do the job. The controller is part of the downtube battery holder and is about £50 though although they do a separate controller which might work. You could email them and ask.
Bob.

 

[saneagle]

Don't know if this helps but the number on my Yosepower front wheel hub is AKM21053120066 95 RS.F250-3626 so perhaps the controller for the front wheel kit it came with would do the job. The controller is part of the downtube battery holder and is about £50 though although they do a separate controller which might work. You could email them and ask.
Bob.

The best controller is a KT plus a KT LCD, which you can get from Topbikekit along with all the other stuff. The Yosepower controller works OK, and if you didn't try a KT, you would probably be happy with it, but the KT has a much better pedal assist function.

 

[thelarkbox]

In addition to the controller/display you will also want a pas cadence sensor, and probably at least one brake sensor, to kill the motor when brakes are applied. an additional wiring loom to extend controller connections to the handlebars may also be required. some pas sensors can require the removal of a pedal arm or the chain-ring so a puller tool may also be required.

while the 'waterproof' julet style plugs/sockets for the controller and its peripherals may initially appear attractive, should you need to troubleshoot they can be a pita and a lot harder to isolate different wires for testing.. waterproofing and weatherproofing can be achieved with marine grade heat shrink and plumbers self amalgamating tape..

 

[Nealh]

A PAS wll already be fitted so if it doesn't work then the easiest option without removing cranks etc,etc is to simply cut off both connectors then solder and shrink the joint. Black to Black , Red to Red or Brown and the last colour pair will be signal and any colour chosen to be used.

As for brake sensor/s they simply aren't needed with KT controllers unless one is fititng a thumb or twist throttle, having used KT for over 8 years nearly nine I have never yet ha d atime when a brake sensor was needed.

Only time I did use brake sensors was with my Lishui set up which had a throttle but I ditched the throttle as I never really used it, so out went the brake sensor/s for a tidier set up.

 

[Bobbo1260]

I fitted the replacement brakes that came with my Yosepower kit that cuts the power but at the time of fitting I did think to myself would one really be likely to brake and pedal or use the throttle at the same time. Don’t think I would as I never braked and accelerated at the same time on my motorbike.

 

[Bobbo1260]

On the subject of motors and controllers and with the wealth of info here, could anyone tell me of a front or rear hub motor that would be the same as my current yosepower front hub which has part number AKM20153120066 95RS. F250-3626 and is set in a 26” wheel.
I ask as I intend to mount the hub behind my trikes rear axle and fit equals sprockets and a chain to get it to drive one of the rear 26” trike wheels via the rear axle so a can make a front frame with 2 wheels for better stability in place of the existing single wheel.
I could remove the rim and spokes but hope to be able to refit the kit on a bike when my balance improves, plus Yosepower don't sell a wheel on its own let alone just the hub, which is a bit crap really.
Bob.

 

[Bobbo1260]

Typed that wrong. Should read AKM21053120066 95RS.F250-3626.

 

[Az.]

I did think to myself would one really be likely to brake and pedal or use the throttle at the same time.

Very likely.

Also take into account that motor does not stop immediately after you stop pedaling.

 

[Cadence]

I fitted the replacement brakes that came with my Yosepower kit that cuts the power but at the time of fitting I did think to myself would one really be likely to brake and pedal or use the throttle at the same time. Don’t think I would as I never braked and accelerated at the same time on my motorbike.

Most definitely. If you are slowing down (say, for a junction) and need to change down through the gears, you have to pedal - unlike on a motorbike. You don't want the motor to kick in so a slight squeeze of a brake lever cuts it off. I was also grateful for brake cut-outs when a throttle stuck partially open. You really only need one for the rear brake, but I've always fitted both levers to have a matching pair.

 

[thelarkbox]

Most definitely. If you are slowing down (say, for a junction) and need to change down through the gears, you have to pedal - unlike on a motorbike. You don't want the motor to kick in so a slight squeeze of a brake lever cuts it off. I was also grateful for brake cut-outs when a throttle stuck partially open. You really only need one for the rear brake, but I've always fitted both levers to have a matching pair.

Indeed the brake lever motor cut off is an instant OFF for the motor while there is a delay between stopping pedaling and the motor cutting off. Also negotiating obstacles in the rd can sometimes benefit from cutting the power momentarily while you snake past obstructions where power from the motor would accelerate you into trouble.
There are a number of 'slow down' gates partial barriers stretching across 2/3rds of the path offset by a meter or two locally.. these can be negotiated at a slow speed but when up-slope require pedaling also, motor assist would barrel me into a barrier before i could turn the bars..

Im sure a competent cyclist could adopt to no brake cut offs and could dismount on occasions but its a simple feature to use and fit, im surprised at the objections tbh

 

[Bobbo1260]

Good points made. I’m not objecting to them, they came with the kit so fitted them anyway.

 

[Nealh]

KT motor cut off is instant there is no over run.
The main reason for fitting a brake sensor is to ensure one has a cut off so that one doesn't blow the controller when a throttle is fitted. Whether one uses the throttle matters not, the reason is in case of throttle failure/shorting via water ingress or faulty wire .
If the above occurs one has an open throttle that can't be shut off unless the system is instantly shut down, if one purely relies on stopping the motor alone by brakes only then if no sensor is used as a kill switch the controller will blow due to power over load.