New to e-bikes-looking for advice

[Waspy]

But we get more torque

 

[soundwave]

i got my 27.5inc wheels in 2019 and are now obsolete and not made anymore and the axle sizes are now all boost so thats it rear wheel axle size for my frame

have a look on facebook market place as sold a couple of bikes on there.

 

[AndyBike]

Handy knowing the budget, makes for an informed choice or recommendation

Personally I'd suggest something like a longtail cargo bike. Keeps the youngster with you, rather than being towed behind. I think the pull along wheeled chariot is pretty antiquated these days as theres a lot of people swopping over to ebike for shortish journeys and the choice available now is far better.

Alternative to the longtail is the box in front type, favoured by parents in Europe.
Kids sit in the front, easy to keep an eye on.
For an example, look at manufacturers like Riese and Muller or Tern, though these are premium brands and its just for an example.
Also take a look at cargo bikes in general, give yourself an idea of what they can offer.

Kits are fine if you understand the basics of electronics and bike mechanics and are prepared that there might be issues or a bit of problem solving to deal with.
Off the shelf Ebikes you always have the comfort of the guarantee.

My own thoughts on the kid trailer is i really dont like the concept. I've seen too many car accidents of cars being rear ended, I would not like to think how bad it could get should it happen with a kid trailer.

 

[SkyMonkey]

£3,000 bikes , they can't give away !

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/mountain-bikes/scott-genius-mc40-review

That's one of the bikes in my cellar!
Unfortunately I built it up from an LTD CARBON frame, so no go as a future donor.
The BB is too fat, and the torque required would probably crush a carbon BB anyhow.
Those rear 'pull' shocks are now obsolete too, and cost loads to service.

26" is the way to go for all the reasons stated by others.
Smaller wheel acts as a lower gear in itself, and the chain stays are far less flared where it counts.
A 26" steel hardtail Cove Handjob is my next years project.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

That's one of the bikes in my cellar!
Unfortunately I built it up from an LTD CARBON frame, so no go as a future donor.
The BB is too fat, and the torque required would probably crush a carbon BB anyhow.
Those rear 'pull' shocks are now obsolete too, and cost loads to service.

26" is the way to go for all the reasons stated by others.
Smaller wheel acts as a lower gear in itself, and the chain stays are far less flared where it counts.
A 26" steel hardtail Cove Handjob is my next years project.

I took my rear hub wheel off my Carrera (with coil front fork) and moved it to a genius mc40 (aluminium frame) which cost peanuts

Pedelec Nirvana

Is there an adapter I need to connect this controller to a 9 pin motor plug ?

www.pedelecs.co.uk

It's much lighter and the suspension is amazing on rough tracks, it really does bring a smile to my face. I converted it really for a plush road ride, but I can't resist exploring any tracks I find - the tyres are really the limiting factor. I'll have to see how long that rear suspension lasts, keeping my fingers crossed

 

[Waspy]

I'll have to see how long that rear suspension lasts, keeping my fingers crossed

It should last 50 hours before service easy, forks too.

According to that guy in the video saneagle posted about cost of servicing an eMTB.

You'd better get your bike booked in pronto (he's in Cumbria LOL). He'll be able to do that in his "Suspension Room".

 

[flecc]

That's because they are twats of course.

20" or 16"or below make real differences, but there's often very little meaningful difference between 26", 27.5", 28" or 29er. Most use the same 700c rim and some with a skinny little slick tyre on that rim are smaller diameter than my 26" rims with taller tyres like some Kendas.
.

 

[SkyMonkey]

20" or 16"or below make real differences, but there's often very little meaningful difference between 26", 27.5", 28" or 29er.

I think the reason the MTB world started adopting bigger diameter wheels was to cut back on the suspension needed for a smooth(ish) ride off-road. The smaller the diameter, the lower the wheel dips into ruts and gaps, making a jounce-ier ride. Bigger diameters roll across the tops of the rough stuff, requiring less suspension travel. All of which is superfluous on tarmac, until you hit a pothole.
Did Brompton ever make an MTB?
26" was the thing when I bought my last MTB, and I'm happy with the wheel size personally.
And it's the perfect chainstay width/position for a mid drive kit.

 

[SkyMonkey]

I took my rear hub wheel off my Carrera (with coil front fork) and moved it to a genius mc40 (aluminium frame) which cost peanuts

Can you post a pic of your Genius so I can get a handle on what you did.
I've only really looked into mid-drives so far, and that is plainly not possible with my Genius.
Plus, I've only EVER ridden a bike that drives from the rear wheel.
How does front drive feel (well, 2WD really, when you're pedalling too).

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Can you post a pic of your Genius so I can get a handle on what you did.
I've only really looked into mid-drives so far, and that is plainly not possible with my Genius.
Plus, I've only EVER ridden a bike that drives from the rear wheel.
How does front drive feel (well, 2WD really, when you're pedalling too).

It is a rear hub conversion




I stated with a £50 Facebook marketplace 15 year old Carrera Vulcan hardtail (26" wheels) with mechanical disc brakes and fitted the ubiquitous Bafang G020 rear hub ( winding code 12) with the standard 48v 18amp speed based controller. I upgraded to hydraulic brakes (£30 off Ali express) and the woosh bottom bracket torque sensor - which came with a controller with power based pas levels

That all worked really well, but it was a bit heavy to get in and out of my shed, the coil front fork wasn't great on trails and on very steep hills (1000 ft climbs with gradient getting up to 27% with a combined weight of 130kg for me and the bike) the 6 MOSFET controller would overheat

So that is where I got the Genius (again off Facebook marketplace) , fitted the Bafang rear wheel , with a 9 MOSFET KT 22anp controller (that I have "detuned" to 18 max amp). Seems brilliant on road and trails, possibly would have got the winding code 14 version if it was primarily for trails. Went to single front gear (48t) for leisurely pedalling cadence, again, possibly would have gone slightly smaller if using primarily for trails. 48v 20ah battery is a bit tight but can slide on and off (20" frame).

The suspension seems fine so far, checked the shocks air pressure after a couple of months and it has kept the same air pressure - no leaks

I thought would be able to do front, rear or mid motor conversion, isn't it a square taper bb ?

The story is here

Pedelec Nirvana

Prompted by @saneagle's comment - What is your Pedelec Nirvana ? Here's mine 48V 15 A Sine Wave controller with power based PAS levels - plenty of smooth quiet power for the steepest road hills even for people that are not as slim as they used to be Rear Geared Hub motor - something like...

www.pedelecs.co.uk