C
new to e-bikes advise on purchase
- Thread starter ashley wood
- Start date
Mmm, not the first post from Cyclezee about this particular lass.Phew, glad you didn't say crucify, Hatti is a nice lady
I reckon he - on the quiet - has got the hots for Hatti.
Really
?. I've had/got bikes with a Cyclotricity kit and an Alien Ocean, both with rack mounted batteries, and have never struggled to fit panniers to either.
The Woosh bike I've seen doesn't have room, so I'm sure a lot of others don't too. The pannier clips won't fit between the battery and the rack tubes.Really
C
Cyclezee
Guest
The same goes for the eZee kit rear battery racks, no problem fitting panniers.Really
I have the Woosh Santana CDL with these fitted:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001E5Q3O2/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The gap between my 15amp battery and top rack tube is around 10 mm, but you can feed the bottom adjusting straps through ok. These straps are plenty long enough.
The overall width of the rack is 183mm, and the top fixed strap between the panniers is about 190mm, so this would In other words it fits perfectly. Hope this helps.
I've got a Kudos Tourer with a rack mounted battery and in the 3 years I've owned it I've always had either panniers or a bag on it. It comes with panniers which weren't big enough for all my stuff so I bought Raliegh ones from argos which carried everything including a spare battery.
There is some strange advice given on here sometimes.
There is some strange advice given on here sometimes.
Last edited:
Jim,
Presumably that's aimed at me.
As I said, and as Artstu confirmed, some ebikes can not take single panniers because there is an insufficient gap between the battery and the top rail of the carrier to take the top clips of the pannier.
Clearly, throw over linked panniers will fit anything, and some bikes have sufficient clearance, as we have heard.
Your post that I referred to said it was often impossible to fit panniers to a rack mounted battery bike. It is not impossible nor is it hard to find panniers to fit.
what is the expensive part other than buying the bike / kit?
- general bike parts such as tyres and pads
- charging the battery (cant use that much elec, besides would prob charge at work)
- replacing battery (£300 every 3 years?)
labour is not an issue, there isnt much i am not accustomed to doing apart from building a wheel set from scratch
Replacing the battery, as you said; if you keep the bike that long. And I don't mean that in a negative way - if you're like many on here, once you get the bug, you'll be upgrading every 12 months or so!
Assuming you don't fall into the upgrading cycle, you've weighed it up more or less correctly.
A new battery is likely to be your biggest single expense.
Life depends on the number of full charge cycles more than age, although that does play a part.
You will be doing about 3,000 miles a year, which will be about 100 full charge cycles.
Makers routinely say a battery will do 500 cycles before it loses significant capacity, so your three-year estimate is on the conservative side.
The mileage will have an impact on normal wear and tear bike bits, but a proper cleaning and maintenance regime will extend their life.
Inappropriate tyres won't last long, but again there's not much expense.
Lots of commuters run Schwalbe Marathon Pluses.
They are about £25 each and seem capable of many thousands of miles.
A new battery is likely to be your biggest single expense.
Life depends on the number of full charge cycles more than age, although that does play a part.
You will be doing about 3,000 miles a year, which will be about 100 full charge cycles.
Makers routinely say a battery will do 500 cycles before it loses significant capacity, so your three-year estimate is on the conservative side.
The mileage will have an impact on normal wear and tear bike bits, but a proper cleaning and maintenance regime will extend their life.
Inappropriate tyres won't last long, but again there's not much expense.
Lots of commuters run Schwalbe Marathon Pluses.
They are about £25 each and seem capable of many thousands of miles.
I also travel 7.5 miles each way, in a hillybarea and used to spend £200+ a month... That was a 71 VW camper so it used up quite a bit of petrol (for 19 years!!). I wanted a Haibike Trekking but none were in Uk at the time. i used cycle to work and topped up to get a wonderful KTM macina. Next time I am highly likely to get my haibike... Or a KTM yet again....
are these tyres the best generally for puncture resistance also?
would swap a bit of weight/speed for resistance quite happily
Marathon Pluses come up time and time again as the most puncture resistant.
They roll OK and if there is a weight penalty, the few grammes is irrelevant on a 20Kg + ebike.
Wide tyres as found on most ebikes don't tend to puncture, depending on their quality.
It's only roadies on their wafer thin, ultra narrow, super light rubber bands who get lots of flats.
Depends on your definition of Lots - I recently fitted Smart Sams to my road/trail bike: The front slime tube had 4 punctures & the rear had 1: And that's 4 months on 29x2.2 tyres
The Smart Sams don't appear to have a puncture protection belt.Depends on your definition of Lots - I recently fitted Smart Sams to my road/trail bike: The front slime tube had 4 punctures & the rear had 1: And that's 4 months on 29x2.2 tyres
They are also about £12, or half the price of a Marathon Plus, so the old adage of getting what you pay for applies.
Having said that, it would have been interesting to know how many punctures you would have had if you had done the same riding with Marathon Pluses.
Related Articles
-
MTF Enterprises announces acquisition of EMU Electric Bikes- Started by: Pedelecs
-
Wisper 806T folding bike wins Which? ‘Best Buy’- Started by: Pedelecs
-
Sustrans calls for protected cycle lanes- Started by: Pedelecs
-
Amazon launch their first UK e-cargo micromobility hub- Started by: Pedelecs
