Help! New e-bike for 16 mile commute

[pgallego96]

Hi all,

I've recently moved to a new area, very rural and very car dependent (no public transport to get to work). We already have one car and while we did think to get a second car, I thought why not look into an e-bike to save a lot of money on all the costs that come with car ownership.

My commute will be about 16 miles each way, quite hilly in both directions. It would probably take me about 1h15 ± 15 minutes each way realistically to begin with. I wouldn't really mind the length of time as I'm doing physical activity, and I could cycle onto a train if I'm ever feeling a bit more tired which would shorten the commute time (Northern trains so I can just pop on without booking).

In terms of e-bikes I'm looking for something in which the battery should hopefully last at least most of the journey, can fit paniers on, is reliable and won't be too obscure to have it repaired. Some of the route might have some gravel on drier days, but more rainy days I might stick to roads.

Price wise, I'd like to keep it on the more affordable side, while avoiding the cheap things that might not last long. If I could get away with 1500-2000 that would be optimal, but I'm not too familiar with e-bike pricing to be honest.

Hopefully this is enough info to get some help with ideas, but otherwise just ask!

 

[saneagle]

I'm unaware of doing so, and a search of my recent posts hasn't enlightened me.

Perhaps you could furnish a link?
.

Post #15 in the context of the quote you included in that post.

Help! - New e-bike for 16 mile commute

Hi all, I've recently moved to a new area, very rural and very car dependent (no public transport to get to work). We already have one car and while we did think to get a second car, I thought why not look into an e-bike to save a lot of money on all the costs that come with car ownership. My...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

 

[Wisper Bikes]

I note that you will be using panniers - in the bikes posted above, one brand doesn't have a pannier rack (so maybe after market?), and two do BUT one of them is secured to the mudguard rather than the other one which is secured to the seat stays - stay clear of mudguard fixed versions if you want to carry anything meaningful in panniers as the fixing point won't hold firmly enough an will break.
View attachment 53809 View attachment 53810

We sell both kinds. We have never had a problem with the top image type. They are solid as the bottom image type.

Both are good.

All the best, David

 

[flecc]

Post #15 in the context of the quote you included in that post.

Help! - New e-bike for 16 mile commute

Hi all, I've recently moved to a new area, very rural and very car dependent (no public transport to get to work). We already have one car and while we did think to get a second car, I thought why not look into an e-bike to save a lot of money on all the costs that come with car ownership. My...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

Thank you for your response.

As I told you, I Iooked at my recent posts to find what you meant. And I had correctly guessed you might have meant this one.

That is not a correction of Saracen and it is in no way pedantic so an apology is due following your insult.

It was an answer to Saracen's rhetorical question, perhaps you missed the question mark it ended with, showing that he was looking for an explanation, rather than making a definitive statement requiring correction:

Surely it is the Motor that makes a difference not the battery voltage ?

Accordingly Saracen appreciated my answer to his undirected question and appended a "Like".

Had Saracen's question been in a Quote, showing who he was querying, I would have left it to that respondent. But as his posts showed he hadn't mastered the Quote system yet, leaving the question unanswered, I answered it out of empathy.
.

 

[Warwick2]

We sell both kinds. We have never had a problem with the top image type. They are solid as the bottom image type.

Both are good.

All the best, David

I'd argue that neither is ideal, as they both fail to provide vertical rear support for deep panniers such as Ortlieb Rollers. I had the same issue with the rear rack on my, otherwise brilliant, Cube Kathmandu.

 

[Kevin williams]

Thanks for all the help everyone. I'm quite liking the look of the Woosh bikes, seems to have good customer support and long term reviews seem to be positive too. There are a few local bike shops in town that supply e-bikes so hopefully they might be helpful, and we get some people coming to work every week where you can take your bike and they can have a look at it too if I ever need that.

At this point it would be choosing between the Faro, the Camino or the Santana. I like how light the Faro is, but not sure how that would cope on any gravel or roads in worse condition.

The avaris odyssey is a bargain at the moment at £1199,(usually £2599), good spec, bafang mid drive and 20ah /720wh battery, have a look

 

[Saracen]

I did a LOT of research and i would never get a hub drive only mid, I have a 750Kw hour battery and happily yes really get 50 miles and that is in HILLY Wales on 7/8/9 top end settings, I have e biked BOTH my Saracen and tomorrow Sanderson

Never a rear drive, can you imagine the hell getting the rear heavy wheel off in the rain with a puncture, spanners needed and unplugging the electrics, same with front hubs, with a mid drive NO problem wheels don't change, something few consider

 

[Az.]

can you imagine the hell getting the rear heavy wheel off in the rain with a puncture, spanners needed and unplugging the electrics, same with front hubs, with a mid drive NO problem wheels don't change, something few consider

You don't have to remove wheel to repair a puncture.
If you have a spanner removing wheel with motor is not that difficult. Also don't have to unplug anything.

 

[saneagle]

I did a LOT of research and i would never get a hub drive only mid, I have a 750Kw hour battery and happily yes really get 50 miles and that is in HILLY Wales on 7/8/9 top end settings, I have e biked BOTH my Saracen and tomorrow Sanderson

Never a rear drive, can you imagine the hell getting the rear heavy wheel off in the rain with a puncture, spanners needed and unplugging the electrics, same with front hubs, with a mid drive NO problem wheels don't change, something few consider

It looks like your research was a bit flawed. How many and which hub motor systems did you try?

You seem to be not aware about both how to avoid punctures and how to fix them. maybe a bit of research in that area might inform your opinion a bit better.

Also, why focus on punctures? What about snapped chains or mangled derailleurs? Both of those would leave you completely stranded with a mid motor.

 

[Bikes4two]

....... how to avoid punctures and how to fix them ..... ...... snapped chains or mangled derailleurs?

Basic skills to fix the above that are good to have for anyone who rides their bike more than just to the local shops and back.

Like others on this forum who have done thousands of miles biking, I've had all of the above but in 50+ years of cycling I've had one snapped chain (easily fixed by a quick link), one bent deraileur (in the middle of some remore spot in Spain but resolved with some judiscious bending - worst case would heve been to byepass it and shorted the chain) but many many more punctures, so on balance I'd have far less hastle with a mid drive than a rear hub.

But of course if you don't mnd riding with those dog of tyres, the Marathon Plus, then punctures will be even less and then if you've Gaadi inner tubes you can keep the wheel in place on the odd occasion you do get a visit from the puncture fairy.

 

[saneagle]

Basic skills to fix the above that are good to have for anyone who rides their bike more than just to the local shops and back.

Like others on this forum who have done thousands of miles biking, I've had all of the above but in 50+ years of cycling I've had one snapped chain (easily fixed by a quick link), one bent deraileur (in the middle of some remore spot in Spain but resolved with some judiscious bending - worst case would heve been to byepass it and shorted the chain) but many many more punctures, so on balance I'd have far less hastle with a mid drive than a rear hub.

But of course if you don't mnd riding with those dog of tyres, the Marathon Plus, then punctures will be even less and then if you've Gaadi inner tubes you can keep the wheel in place on the odd occasion you do get a visit from the puncture fairy.

Since I started using Marathon Plus tyres ten years ago, I've never had a puncture in many thousands of miles.

 

[flecc]

Since I started using Marathon Plus tyres ten years ago, I've never had a puncture in many thousands of miles.

For me it was only one MP puncture in many thousands of miles. And that blackthorn puncture so slow that I was able to ride the over five miles home with one simple pump top up, doing the repair later.
.

 

[Bikes4two]

Since I started using Marathon Plus tyres ten years ago, I've never had a puncture in many thousands of miles.

I must have been unlucky then - I remember when I first started regular riding I got a couple of punctures over a winter period - I am an unhappy bunny in the cold and after struggling to get the tyre off and even more so to get it back on again, I decided that I'd prefer different tyres to the M+, happy (?) in the expectation that if/when I did puncture, I'd be able to deal with it fairly easily without freezing my fingers off - I then gave away three of the M+ and have never regretted it. Further, on fitting other tyres I realised how much the ride quality improved.

Yes, I know about the different techniques for tight fitting tyres (including the YT vid by Colin, ex Spa Cycles) and the extra powerful levers (VAR and others) but I was glad not to be using them.

Now, the Marathon Supreme is another story - I used them for many years on the solo bikes and tandem but now they are an exorbitant price so I'm running down my old stock to replace with what I don't know. I suppose it'd be good to hear that the M+ ride quality has improved over the years - has it?

 

[Saracen]

You don't have to remove wheel to repair a puncture.
If you have a spanner removing wheel with motor is not that difficult. Also don't have to unplug anything.

Says who, I prefer to it is easier, FOR ME and others, remember NOT all people are "able" bodied

 

[guerney]

Yes, I know about the different techniques for tight fitting tyres (including the YT vid by Colin, ex Spa Cycles) and the extra powerful levers (VAR and others) but I was glad not to be using them.

I can usually fit Marathon Plus by hand, but sometimes zipties are needed. I always carry reusable zipties.

 

[Bikes4two]

I can usually fit Marathon Plus by hand, but sometimes zipties are needed. I always carry reusable zipties.

Yes, that's 'Colin' from Spa Cycles who for many years hand built wheels for them but has been retired for a good while.

He's now into his 70's and has rediscovered his cycling with the aid of a TSDZ2 conversion (see '531Colin' here on Cycling UK forum).

As for tight fitting tyres I bought myself ones of THESE to help me with a particularly tight tyre on one of my bikes - fitting the tyre was a real *all ache but that tool does the job.

 

[guerney]

As for tight fitting tyres I bought myself ones of THESE to help me with a particularly tight tyre on one of my bikes - fitting the tyre was a real *all ache but that tool does the job.

These work well for me:

3 x Tyre Levers Bicycle Cycling Bike Road MTB Changing Puncture Repair Tools Rim 5060269831086 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 3 x Tyre Levers Bicycle Cycling Bike Road MTB Changing Puncture Repair Tools Rim at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

...they don't snap like the very cheap brittle ones, or haven't yet. Mind you my tyres are 20", if that makes a difference. Rarely used because my MPs are yet to have a puncture.

 

[saneagle]

Says who, I prefer to it is easier, FOR ME and others, remember NOT all people are "able" bodied

It's easier for not able bodied people to fix a puncture without removing the wheel compared with removing it. You seem to have it the wrong way round.