new controller

D

Deleted member 4366

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I must have crap cameras, these are a bit blurred, I am sorry but I tried my best.
I think that you're copying the thumbnail to the PC rather than the actual photo. Instead of just dragging them across, copy and paste them. Check that you can see the detail on the PC before uploading to photobucket.
 

robdon

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 5, 2013
267
-70
four of these wires are pretty obvious where they go, the fifth I am quite confident, it is why is there a sixth, that's all I asked, must be hundreds of members who dismantled controllers in the past, I never heard of ebikes before xmas, but I will get it going, don`t need all this harassment.
I have a good idea why
ROB
 

robdon

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 5, 2013
267
-70
took this through a micro- scope, I can see every thing perfect when blown up
hall wires are from the left, blue, pink, yellow,black, orange and red.
I think blue is the odd man out
ROB
 
D

Deleted member 4366

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In order to solve your problem, I need a photo of this area of the PCB. Like I said before, I don't need to see your table. If you look at your photo, you'll see that the PCB will fit 6 times into the total picture provided. Move the camera until you can see only the bit I've shown below. Only if it won't focus there, move it out a bit. Rest the heels of your hands on the table so that you can hold the camera steady. Please take the photo directly from above, not angled like in the last one. The starred area should be in the centre of the photo. When you've done that, turn it over and do the same for the other side.

pcb.jpg

It should be clear like this one, so that I can follow the tracks and read the writing on it:

 

robdon

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 5, 2013
267
-70
I had to use a different camera, I think it should be ok, you can see what caused the controller to fail the ruptured copper in the top left.

ROB
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
That's a lot better, but you've still angled the camera instead of done it directly from above, so I can't read the writing around the connections, nor can I see the components behind the crystal (that silver thing).
 
D

Deleted member 4366

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The back side one is no good. It's upside down, too small and out of focus. Why can't you do it like the last one? Do you see all those lines under the green stuff? I need to be able to follow them.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
It's a bit of a shame that you cut off all the wires because I've spotted the problem with that controller. You've blown a track at the second FET at the front of that photo. You could've fixed that by soldering on a bit of wire.

I don't think that there's anything wrong with your camera. That photo above would have been perfect if only you had put the board the other way round. The bit I need to see is at the back where all the glare is. I don't need to see the near half at all, but you keep putting it in the foreground.
I gave you a picture of what I need to see. If you look at the above picture, you can see exactly where every track goes at the front, but at the back, where the wires are connected, there's just a blurred glarey mess. The same with the picture of the topside. If only you'd had the board the other way round so that the wires were at the front, it would have been perfect.
 

robdon

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 5, 2013
267
-70
what you call the front I thought was the back, thanks for your help, you must be getting frustrated.
ROB
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
I'm pretty sure that red is 5v, black is ground, blue, pink and yellow are the hall wires. Orange is probably a temperature sensor. It's not possible to be certain because the tracks disappear under components, but the red heads off towards the 5v regulator and the orange goes in a different direction.
 

robdon

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 5, 2013
267
-70
I have all the wire ,wired up individually, ie that is the Halls , phase, and power, once I find out the correct order I will wire them up proper.
I will try what you suggest first.
thanks for all your help, i am getting better at photography.
ROB
 
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D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
The KU series controllers have automatic hall and phase sequence recognition. I don't know how far it can go, but if you're lucky, it's just connect and go. Naturally, you have to get the red and black hall wires correct.
 

robdon

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 5, 2013
267
-70
I may as well start here, as this is where i finished off.
I have a motor and controller tester, and tested the phase and hall wires, as explained before the Giant Suede has six hall wires, red, black, yellow, blue, orange and pink on the controller and new controller has only five
Coupled up to tester red to red on controller
Black to black ..............
Yellow to yellow ..............
Blue to blue .....................
Green to orange ...............
This would only light up two of the hall lights, so changed blue on tester to the pink on the controller and all three lights lit up and when the wheel was turned they lit up in sequence from left to right as they should.
So blue wire to motor is not being used.
Then tested the phase wires, all three bulbs lit up and flickered brightly when the wheel was turned. So these ok.
Fitted a plastic case for the new controller to the bike so the controller was not underneath the bike, coupled up the battery wires, Pas, throttle, phase, hall wires and LCD 861.
Fitted the battery, tried the throttle no movement.
Spun the peddles to see if the Pas was working no movement.
By the way the Lcd was switched on when trying, when i press the cur button on the Lcd the front wheel gives a jolt but does not turn, and the power indication on th Lcd shows up by about six dots.
The Lcd has fault indicators , for motor, controller, battery, throttle, power brake and under voltage yet none of these are activated.
Anyone know what to try.
ROB
 
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robdon

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 5, 2013
267
-70
it is not a ku controller, its from a kit I bought of ebay MATEEM
I had waited 9 weeks for it from bms battery and never came, I have re ordered one waiting for it to come
ROB
 
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