New build, wheel loses drive and screeches

[Matthew Hutchinson]

Hi, I'm having an issue with a new build and it's happening across two different kits.
Firstly I put a kit on my trike using an old 48v q128 motor and spare 52v 17amp battery with a new 48v Sku95 controller and new thumb throttle and led810 once built it switched on fine but when you accelerated it moved at first but then it lost drive and made a screeching sound , if you switched off and on it would again move at first but under harder acceleration would screech again.
I thought I must have damaged a phase wire when I was building the wheel (I'm disabled and can be quite clumsy) so I ordered a new motor and thought sod it, for the sake of another £30 I will replace everything. Built that kit up so everything was new except the 52v 17amp battery but still the same problem occured, so I obviously thought it must be the battery that's the issue and in fairness it has sat for 6 months unused. So I ordered a spare base plate to allow me to use my other battery a 48v 20 amp, but when I swapped it over guess what, exactly same issue again.
The 52v battery was actually bought as a 48v only just found out that's what it is but that battery has been running the exact same set up on my other trike for over 5 years without issue and I just fitted a new motor and battery on that with no issues.
Feel free to treat me like a moron here because I know very little about this stuff and I'm on a lot of medication so quite hazy at times and could well have missed something completely obvious

 

[saneagle]

The first thing to check is that you push the motor connector in ALL THE WAY TO THE MARKED LINE, not just in tight.

Your symptoms indicate a connection issue between the controller and the motor. You just have to find it.

 

[Brik]

Those connectors can be very fiddly, whilst you are checking make sure the little pins are undamaged.

 

[harrys]

I thought I must have damaged a phase wire when I was building the wheel (I'm disabled and can be quite clumsy) so I ordered a new motor and thought sod it, for the sake of another £30 I will replace everything.

Did you really put in a new Q128 motor? That would seem to cost more than £30.

If you only changed controllers, it's probably the gears in the motor. They have a one way clutch that probably failed,

 

[MikelBikel]

2 different motors with exactly the same symptoms?
Loss of power And screeching?
Sounds like a bad connection And Also maybe something rubbing against the motor while turning/bad bearings? .

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

Sorry I've taken so long to reply but it takes me ages to go through everything checking it all because of my illness. I took it all to bits, checked every connection, resoldered the xt60s, everything is spot on but I got the same result, the horrible screech and no drive. When I ordered the parts from BMS I just got exactly the same as I bought 5 years ago which has been great, so I've gone over that and noticed that the maximum current on my old Sku95 is 22amp but the two new Sku95 I have just bought have a maximum current of 11v , I'm no whizz kid when it comes to electrics but I'm assuming the fact that my batteries are 17amp and 20amp that's what's causing my problems but I would appreciate it if someone could confirm this for me and if this is the issue can some one recommend a replacement controller that's up to the task

 

[matthewslack]

Your batteries are not 17 and 20 amp, they are 17 and 20 amp-hour, written Ah.

Both are big enough for most motors and controllers, so unless they are old and knackered, they are probably not the problem.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

Your batteries are not 17 and 20 amp, they are 17 and 20 amp-hour, written Ah.

Both are big enough for most motors and controllers, so unless they are old and knackered, they are probably not the problem.

So the 11amp controller would be fine with the 20ah and 17ah battery, that's a bitch I really thought I had found the issue then

 

[Nealh]

New 11a controller is 11a rated , it has tha same max 22a +/- 1a as the old model.

 

[Nealh]

Check the motor cable isn't damaged at the hub axle exit/entry point.

How good are the phase contacts/connections under the amalgam tape.

Can one be 100% sure no moisture has entered the hub.

 

[matthewslack]

So the 11amp controller would be fine with the 20ah and 17ah battery, that's a bitch I really thought I had found the issue then

They'll think they're on holiday with such low continuous current demand!

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

Is it worth changing the bullet connectors on the phase wires for xt60s

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

Check the motor cable isn't damaged at the hub axle exit/entry point.

How good are the phase contacts/connections under the amalgam tape.

Can one be 100% sure no moisture has entered the hub.

Motor cable is fine, tested trike with two motors and the issue remains so I think its fair to say they are good, brand new hub so no moisture issues, I'm just debating on changing the bullets for xt60s and see if that gets me anywhere

 

[Nealh]

If a connection issue , I'm wondering if it is a wrong phase /hall combo as their are 36 differing combo's.
On could try differing wire sequences to see if drive /pick up improves.
Three or four should work better then the rest.

Not all controllers and hubs sync correctly straight out of the box so wiring sequences may differ.

 

[saneagle]

Motor cable is fine, tested trike with two motors and the issue remains so I think its fair to say they are good, brand new hub so no moisture issues, I'm just debating on changing the bullets for xt60s and see if that gets me anywhere

Your photo seems to show the incorrect hall wire sequence on one half of the white connector with green and blue reversed on one side.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

If a connection issue , I'm wondering if it is a wrong phase /hall combo as their are 36 differing combo's.
On could try differing wire sequences to see if drive /pick up improves.
Three or four should work better then the rest.

Not all controllers and hubs sync correctly straight out of the box so wiring sequences may differ.


View attachment 61891

Thanks for your input, can I just check before I start testing that I'm understanding this correctly, the top box tells me the changes to make in the sensor connection and the boxes below are changes to the phase wire connections, so I just swap them about as it says until I find one that works for me, is there anything else I need need to be aware of, thanks in advance