Need help with my e bike

[gw8izr]

It’s quite hard to diagnose remotely and I’m not entirely sure that What Sami is reporting is clear. It would probably take just a few moments if the bike was presented in front of us so we have to be patient talking him through the test. It would be interesting to know exactly where he is measuring the voltage. Repeatedly Sami keeps saying the voltage goes down but then quotes figures showing it’s going up so I’d be wanting to know how it’s being measured. Just going back to the original problem statement, the power cuts off and cannot be reset without turning the key on and off . So whilst it’s fairly clear that the voltage is collapsing and most likely it’s a duff battery it could also be an intermittent high resistance joint in the cabling between the battery and the controller. The voltage would remain quite high until such time that significant demand was placed on the joint and once the voltage drops the controller will turn itself off . If we believe that the power assistance returns once the key is turned on then maybe only failing when we reach peak demand later. That may go some way towards explaining why the voltage increases when the wheel stops as described above, the load increases, the joint goes HR, the controller turns off and the volts immediately rises due to no load. I don’t know what the key is in the original statement, I wonder if it’s a key switch that turns the battery on and off, if that has been used for 2 1/2 years and perhaps hot switched even that could be a high resistance that clears when you wiggle the switch on and off. All conjecture of course.

Easy if it was in front of us

 

[Nealh]

I have had a similar issue for two or three years now with my six year old pair of 29e batteries,
If I use throttle or high PAS they sag and cut out due to raised IR , both charge to 41.5 - 41.8v. I can still get 30 - 40 miles range out of them on flat terrain if I only use PAS 1 or 2. If I use the batteries for 5- 10 miles then use PAS3 or throttle the voltage sags/collapses under load and cuts out, the batteries are past their best but for my flat commute and local errand running they are perfect and should last another year or two using max of PAS 2.

 

[Deleted member 25121]

I have had a similar issue for two or three years now with my six year old pair of 29e batteries,
If I use throttle or high PAS they sag and cut out due to raised IR , both charge to 41.5 - 41.8v. I can still get 30 - 40 miles range out of them on flat terrain if I only use PAS 1 or 2. If I use the batteries for 5- 10 miles then use PAS3 or throttle the voltage sags/collapses under load and cuts out, the batteries are past their best but for my flat commute and local errand running they are perfect and should last another year or two using max of PAS 2.

Yes, that certainly looks like your batteries are past their best and starting to go high resistance.

But what do you make of Sami's report that "The thing that i can't understand is while im pedaling the battery loss power. And when i stop pedaling the power assist comes full energy again " ?

 

[Amoto65]

Maybe there is a short somewhere when he pedals.

 

[D C]

ut what do you make of Sami's report that "The thing that i can't understand is while im pedaling the battery loss power. And when i stop pedaling the power assist comes full energy again " ?

Is he perhaps describing the voltage sag when the peddling creates a demand then the raise in voltage when the demand ceases when not peddling?
Just guessing of course and electrics aren't my strong point.
Dave.

 

[Deleted member 25121]

Is he perhaps describing the voltage sag when the peddling creates a demand then the raise in voltage when the demand ceases when not peddling?
Just guessing of course and electrics aren't my strong point.
Dave.

I don't think so because Sami said that the motor runs at full power when he stop pedalling.

 

[Sami fouad]

It’s quite hard to diagnose remotely and I’m not entirely sure that What Sami is reporting is clear. It would probably take just a few moments if the bike was presented in front of us so we have to be patient talking him through the test. It would be interesting to know exactly where he is measuring the voltage. Repeatedly Sami keeps saying the voltage goes down but then quotes figures showing it’s going up so I’d be wanting to know how it’s being measured. Just going back to the original problem statement, the power cuts off and cannot be reset without turning the key on and off . So whilst it’s fairly clear that the voltage is collapsing and most likely it’s a duff battery it could also be an intermittent high resistance joint in the cabling between the battery and the controller. The voltage would remain quite high until such time that significant demand was placed on the joint and once the voltage drops the controller will turn itself off . If we believe that the power assistance returns once the key is turned on then maybe only failing when we reach peak demand later. That may go some way towards explaining why the voltage increases when the wheel stops as described above, the load increases, the joint goes HR, the controller turns off and the volts immediately rises due to no load. I don’t know what the key is in the original statement, I wonder if it’s a key switch that turns the battery on and off, if that has been used for 2 1/2 years and perhaps hot switched even that could be a high resistance that clears when you wiggle the switch on and off. All conjecture of course.

Easy if it was in front of us

Hi im mesuring the voltage between the controller and wires that comes from the battery..

 

[Sami fouad]

The cut out of the battery sometimes can be just by moving the throttle and the power collapses.. Also while pedaling.. The indicator or display start to decrease voltage when pedaling..

 

[Sami fouad]

Maybe there is a short somewhere when he pedals.

i can see that there is a circular disc that's not well fixed... Also i noticed that there is some resistance of the bike when it moves backwards

 

[gw8izr]

i can see that there is a circular disc that's not well fixed... Also i noticed that there is some resistance of the bike when it moves backwards

That’s interesting, is there a sensor close to that disk, does the gap between the sensor and disk change or is the disk able to move closer / further away as you pedal ?

 

[Sami fouad]

Yes there is sensor only the plastic is not fixed.. I turned the bike wheels up and turn the pedals.. It react when i stop turning pedals the engine stops. When i turn the engine works again. When i tried to ride it i just turned the throttle and the powers cuts out

 

[Sami fouad]

This is the piece

 

[gw8izr]

It react when i stop turning pedals the engine stops. When i turn the engine works again. When i tried to ride it i just turned the throttle and the powers cuts out

The throttle behaving the same as the pedal sensor seems to point toward the battery supply and it’s cabling.

Earlier you mentioned the battery key, does your key turn on and off the power or does it just lock the battery in place?

If the key is also an electrical switch it would be worth testing the battery voltage on both sides of that switch under load to make sure the current isn’t being restricted.



If you don’t have a track or maintenance stand to work on your bike you can use a door frame, put a screw in the door frame and tie a short rope from that to the saddle stem of the bike but make it short so the back wheel is a few inches above the floor. Then you can run the motor and use the brake to slow the wheel without struggling to hold the bike as well.

If you run the motor while applying the brake it will simulate working the bike harder like going up a hill and the motor will draw more current from the battery .

Just be careful that you don’t get misled by the speed limiter, if you are in a tall gear and you open the throttle when the wheel is in the air then the motor will quickly spin the wheel and it can easily exceed the speed limit set in the controller. This will cut the power and the wheel will spin down to a slow speed, at that point the motor will start again and drive the wheel.

You should see the voltage reading to reduce as you increase the load. So if it starts at 40v with no load, the more you accelerate the motor and apply the brake the voltage should reduce gradually. If it drops suddenly when the fault occurs then the voltage is being lost in either the wiring, the key switch, any connectors, the connector where the battery clips to the holder or inside the battery itself.

If all the switches, cables and the connections look clean and good with no volts dropped in them then it points to the battery.

 

[Deleted member 25121]

I turned the bike wheels up and turn the pedals.. It react when i stop turning pedals the engine stops. When i turn the engine works again.

This is the opposite of what you said in your first post:

while i move on the power assist looks like goes down gradually as far as i pedal when i stop pedaling the power assist comes full again

Which is correct?

Also, it would help if we knew more about the history of the problem:
How old are the bike and battery?
How long have you had the bike?
Has the bike ever worked correctly?

 

[Nealh]

I no longer can help as to many conflicting quotes from the OP and unanswered results when asked for them.

In #7 he originally said;
" I put the third level even if its in the first level it cuts out.. When i turn the throttle also it cuts out. So no light in the display i have to turn the key so as to start again"

This is typical of knackered battery esp when it happens in PAS1.
The battery is affected by voltage sag/collapse.

 

[Sami fouad]

This is the opposite of what you said in your first post:



Which is correct?

Also, it would help if we knew more about the history of the problem:
How old are the bike and battery?
How long have you had the bike?
Has the bike ever worked correctly?

I put the bike with wheels towards the ceiling.. Imean

 

[Sami fouad]

I put the bike with wheels towards the ceiling.. Imean

The bike is of 2017 has 3 years battery 2and half.. No it was working fine

 

[Sami fouad]

The throttle behaving the same as the pedal sensor seems to point toward the battery supply and it’s cabling.

Earlier you mentioned the battery key, does your key turn on and off the power or does it just lock the battery in place?

If the key is also an electrical switch it would be worth testing the battery voltage on both sides of that switch under load to make sure the current isn’t being restricted.



If you don’t have a track or maintenance stand to work on your bike you can use a door frame, put a screw in the door frame and tie a short rope from that to the saddle stem of the bike but make it short so the back wheel is a few inches above the floor. Then you can run the motor and use the brake to slow the wheel without struggling to hold the bike as well.

If you run the motor while applying the brake it will simulate working the bike harder like going up a hill and the motor will draw more current from the battery .

Just be careful that you don’t get misled by the speed limiter, if you are in a tall gear and you open the throttle when the wheel is in the air then the motor will quickly spin the wheel and it can easily exceed the speed limit set in the controller. This will cut the power and the wheel will spin down to a slow speed, at that point the motor will start again and drive the wheel.

You should see the voltage reading to reduce as you increase the load. So if it starts at 40v with no load, the more you accelerate the motor and apply the brake the voltage should reduce gradually. If it drops suddenly when the fault occurs then the voltage is being lost in either the wiring, the key switch, any connectors, the connector where the battery clips to the holder or inside the battery itself.

If all the switches, cables and the connections look clean and good with no volts dropped in them then it points to the battery.

The key turns on and off the battery...

 

[Sami fouad]

When i measure the voltage in the battery, there are 2 cathode and two anodes +- , only one cathode and anode have got voltage. the others don't have.

 

[Deleted member 25121]

I put the bike with wheels towards the ceiling.. Imean

Does the motor work when you pedal or when you stop pedalling?