NEED HELP PLEASE SW900 settings desperate

[DanJohnson]

Can somebody help me with the settings i need for my SW900 LCD i broke the one of my bike so had to fit a new one that came with default settings now my bike is slow i don't have a clue even after watching instructions what to set each setting from 1 to 15 to could somebody tell me what number i should set each one to i will post my bike config below before i had the new LCD i could hit 50-mph easy could somebody do me a list from P1 to P15 with the numbers needed for the fastest settings for my bike i would hugely appreciate it

SETUP

20" coyote mountain bike

MXUS 3k turbo

84v 15ah battery

60 amp controller

LCD OPTIONS

P01 Background luminance. 1 is the darkest, 3 is the brightest
P02 Unit of the mileage. 0 is KM, 1 is MILE
P03 Voltage grades. 24V, 36V, 48V. The original voltage is 36V.
P04 Sleep time. 0 is without sleep, other numbers stand for the sleep time (1-60 min).
P05 PAS grades. 0, 3 grades mode: 1 grade 2V, 2 grade 3V, 3 grade 4V 1, 5 grades mode: 1 grade 2V, 2 grade 2.5V, 3 grade 3V, 4 grade 3.5V, 5 grade 4V
P06 Wheel size. Unit: inch. Precision: 0.1
P07 Speed measuring magnet. Range: 1-100
P08 Speed limit. Range: 0-50km/h, 50 means without limit No-Communication Status (controlled by the meter): when the real speed is over the ones we set, the meter would shut off PWM output; when less than the speed we set, the meter would turn on PWM output automatically, the driving speed would be ±1km/h; (Speed limit is for PAS, not for Throttle) Communication Status (controlled by the controller): The driving speed keeps same with the ones we set. Random error: ±1km/h. (Speed limit is for both PAS and Throttle) Notes: These data are based on KM. When changing KM to Mile, the speed value on the screen would convert to correct Miles automatically, but if you do not change the setting of speed limit from KM to Mile, it would be different from the real speed limit in Mile.
P09 Zero start & Non-zero Start. 0 is Zero Start, 1 is Non-zero Start
P10 Driving mode. 0 is driven by PAS. Throttle is useless at this time. 1 is driven by Throttle. PAS is useless at this time. 2 is driven by PAS & Throttle. Throttle is useless at Zero Start status.
P11 PAS sensitivity. Range: 1-24
P12 PAS start strength. Range: 0-5
P13 PAS magnet type. There are 3 types: 5, 8, and 12.
P14 The Current-limiting of Controller. The original Current is 12A. Range:1-20A
P15 Not implemented now.

 

[Marko222]

Hi, I desperately need help on this too, I have a 1500w motor with a 48v 17.5ah battery but when I pedal or rev it only puts out around 700w, my friend has the same kit (slightly older version) and his feels much faster and more powerful and outputs at 1500w. Why is mine been limited to around 700w? Did you manage to work out the fastest settings?

 

[Nealh]

What is your controller rating ?
P14 above says 20a max for controller setting, you need to see at least 30 if not 35a to get 1500w of power.

 

[Marko222]

Hi thanks for the quick response, it is a built in controller (built into the hub with the 1500w motor and it is a 35a controller, I have checked the settings in the sw900 and it is set to 35a

 

[nazmul789]

What number is used for p15? As everywhere I look it says "not implemented now', but my one allows me to change the number. 48v 1000w with LCD Voilamart motor with 52v 16ah battery. If anyone can help me with the optimal settings for P07, P14 and P15 I would be much grateful. Thanks

 

[Cliffleach01]

OK, me too; I have a new 36volt 500 watt ebike kit. Using a charged 36volt battery, I connect everything together and nothing happens. When I press the 'M' button on the SW900 controller it flashes on briefly (about 1/2 second) and then goes off, even if I hold it down for several seconds. Could I ahve a dead SW900? do I need a new controller? I am getting no sense from CSC in China to my questions.

 

[vfr400]

When it flashes like that, it's often because the battery is swithed off. In that case, it's only power supply is from the capacitor/s in the controller that are fixed across the battery input and hold a small amount of charge at battery voltage. even when the battery is switched off, some charge will leak through and charge up the capacitor/s.

Start by checking the voltage on the battery terminals, then test it at all points on the way to the LCD, or work back from the LCD.

 

[Cliffleach01]

Thanks, I have done that, I have 36.3v at the terminals and on the red and black wires coming out of the controller that feed into the LCD

 

[Cliffleach01]

IS it possible to fire the battery, controller, throttle and motor up without using the LCD? I have tried and cannot get it to work that way but maybe I am doing something wrong

 

[vfr400]

I have tried and cannot get it to work that way but maybe I am doing something wrong

Yes, but if everything is OK, but you need to find out what's causing your problem first because you can do some damage.

The next test is see what happens to the voltage going to the LCD when you switch it on. If it collapses, then your battery can't supply the current that the controller demands in its standby state. The most common reason for that is a short somewhere - most likely a blown mosfet in the controller. That would be very unlikely with a new kit unless there are some details in the story that you haven't told us. It's time to spill the beans.

 

[Cliffleach01]

The voltage to the LCD when I switch it on stays stable at 36v

 

[vfr400]

The voltage to the LCD when I switch it on stays stable at 36v

Why didn't you charge up your battery?
Did the LCD stay on, flash or what?
Is it a 48v LCD?

 

[Cliffleach01]

It's a 36v battery, a 36v controller and I am getting 36v at the red and black wires to the LCD. As I said earlier, it just flashes briefly for a fraction of a second and that's it. I've used an ebike diagnostic box and the controller seems fine so I am guessing I have a dead SW900.

 

[vfr400]

It's a 36v battery, a 36v controller and I am getting 36v at the red and black wires to the LCD. As I said earlier, it just flashes briefly for a fraction of a second and that's it. I've used an ebike diagnostic box and the controller seems fine so I am guessing I have a dead SW900.

36v implies that there's something wrong with your battery. It should be 42V.

 

[Cliffleach01]

36v implies that there's something wrong with your battery. It should be 42V.

Why would I want a 42 volt battery for a 36volt motor? My 36 volt battery drives my 250 watt 36 volt hub fine, right down to 31 volts?

 

[vfr400]

A 36v battery is 42v to 31v if it's healthy.

 

[Nealh]

Stop being pompous and take it as advice given.
A 36v battery is the nominal voltage which is approx. 50% charged , 36v is 10 cells/groups in series so 36v /10 = 3.6v per cell. Each cell has a min and max voltage 3.1v - 4.2v respectively so a 36v battery voltage range is a min 31v and a max 42v for a 36v system.
The charger should charge the battery fully to 41.6 - 42v depending on the BMS balance function in the battery. If the battery isn't charging to about 42v then something is wrong and the battery cells eventually may go out of balance and when this happens will not charge at all. Measure the charge voltage at the chargers out let connector to see that 42v registers, if so then you need to allow the battery to fully charge to 100%. 100% charge will give the bike better pep/acceleration and will double the mileage/range currently obtained.

Same thing applies to a 48v battery which is 13 cells in series, it doesn't charge to 48v (50%) but to 54.6v which is 100%.

My new battery I built is 44.4v /12 cells in series fully charge 100% it is 50.4v,

 

[vfr400]

My 36 volt battery drives my 250 watt 36 volt hub fine, right down to 31 volts?
[/QUOTE]
I thought you said that it wasn't working, which is why you asked for help. Now you're telling us all the answers and not answering our questions.